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Completed by Fraysa on Audi-sport.net. What we need is: Genuine LED Cupholder Light Ring (Part Number 8V0947157A): I used a kit from AliExpress that comes with the connector and two wires. This was a genuine part. High Quality Plastic Trim Removal Tool High Quality Glue Soldering Iron 1. We'll start by removing the center console located between the seats. We'll slide a high quality, rather long flat plastic removal tool between the center console top and bottom parts at the marked spot (this spot is parallel to the center MMI button so you can use that as reference): 2. After inserting the tool as deep as you can, lift it up with force (but being gentle not to tear up anything) until you can hear the clips releasing (you'll hear a popping sound). Do this on both sides and you'll be able to free the top part of the console: 3. After popping up the top part, you need to remove the bottom clips. You can do this pulling the console towards the back of the car, as the clips are located under the cigarette lighter area. 4. To fully free the console, you'll need to remove the leather gearknob cover. You can pop it up by pushing it from under and then "playing" with it until you can remove the console through it. Don't forget to remove any connections under the console. (Unfortunately I forgot to take a picture of that but they should unclip pretty easily). Please note that if you disconnect the e-brake harness while the car is on you will receive a message on the info cluster so you'll need VCDS or OBDEleven to clear it, so please turn off your car before removing anything! 5. Now that the console is out can we start really working on the less fun part of this install. I placed the console upside down on a cloth so I won't damage the top part. What we need to do is to separate the top part from the bottom part. As you can see in the picture, they're soldered from the factory so there's no pretty way to remove them. I used a soldering iron to melt the tabs so I can barely slide a plastic tool to separate them enough to remove the ring and put the new one. I marked the tabs that you need to melt before separating the console. 6. After you can barely separate the console, you'll be able to see the old ring and pull it out to install the new one. Put the new one in and put the two parts back together. I used a really high quality glue to put the console back apart and let it dry overnight before installing back into my car. 7. The fun part, the connection part! Now all we have to do is connect the lights. From the factory, the lights are connected into the BCM and can be controlled through the MMI. I couldn't bother to do that because my wires were too short and because it's basically the same functionality as using the knob on the headlight switch so I connected them to the cigarette lighter wires. 8. Install the console back in slowly, not forgetting to connect back any wires and there you have it! Before After

Oh dear like what? Have to say it's always the way lol

Hi bulbs are like track rod ends, tyres, brake pads, discs you always change them in pairs because they wear as a set the new single light bulb will be much brighter than the other side, you don't have to buy the expensive bulbs from Euros, go on eBay I have used many different brands and Limastar from valley lighting are about the best Lumex are good, you are supposed to change the bulbs every three years as they do go off. Steve.

And the ride is likely to be harsher Karol, due to the lower profile tyres. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hi its the bulb needs changing if it was the ballast it would either not work or the light would flicker, its a fairly easy job to replace just remove the rear cover to find out what bulbs you have its printed on the rear of the bulb it will be a D3S or D5S which a good branded set [you need to replace both sides] will be around £130, no idea about garage costs as I have always replaced my own, 4500k is off white but if you go up to 5500k as long as the wattage is the same will give a more pure white light, the k rating equals kelvin which is light output without he heat halogen bulbs produce. STEVE

Hi if you have the remap you will definitely have to use the 97/99 premium or use a proprietary quality octane booster as an additive to 95 otherwise you start burning valves etc, but the thing that baffles me is why, with all that power as standard or do we have a track day planned, cars with a standard state of tune like that have come from the factory in a high state of tune and the bonus with that is there is also a high reliability factor built in, mapping eats into the reliability factor but aim sure the mapping boys will say not, the manufacturer makes sure the clutch and gearbox will live with this power as standard if you start throwing different torque curves and more BHP invairiably major components will fail faster, I cite the case of the VW Golf GTI owner who at 36k had his car remapped, happy days 60bhp more and another 40nm of torque until the clutch retired 4k later and another two grand bill for an uprated clutch, not so happy. Steve.

I think a module change will be a few hundred quid. Obviously worse case scenario is a knackard gearbox. But at this stage my money's on the module or sensors.

Welcome to the forum you'll find the members on here are a friendly and helpful bunch 🙂 have you got a picture? Ive be er heard of this before.