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Hi Sonny1 I am no expert on Cabriolet electric roofs but when I have had similar problems I usually keep trying different things and usually get the problem resolved. I would try to reset the roof by putting the roof down manually making sure the boot lid and the roof compartment cover are closed properly, turn the ignition off then on and try raising the roof electrically. Micro switches on the boot lid and the roof compartment cover latches play a big part in the smooth operation of the roof. hope this works for you! Turlough.

Has anyone used these inflatable mattresses? My boot is used for the various gear I carry on my road trips hence why a full bed won't work. I have a 2002 Audi a6 estate. Thanks all 🙂

An update as I visited an indie shop nearby and an official Audi dealership. The local mechanics had discovered it was the coolant shut-off valve 4H0 121 671D. A simple solenoid, which intermittently gets stuck in a semi-closed or fully closed position. As I understood the schematics, this valve is preventing the (cold) coolant from circulating through the heater to make the engine warm up faster. According to multiple other forums' threads, it is very often stuck but many times in the open position, which of course goes unnoticed by owners. The worst is when an older revision part (B at the end) starts leaking and pushing coolant through the socket onto the wires, but this didn't happen in my case. All electrics is intact. Diagnostics (and temporary fix) are fairly simple: knock on it with something chunky such as a screwdriver handle a few times and observe the heat coming back. Importantly, it wouldn't show in the errors (unless the electrics is damaged and the circuit is always open/short) because there's no flow sensor and the device itself is passive. The only error related to the AC/heater I had was B108C07 related to the motor controlling the left air flap. And I am very glad I went to an indie shop first because I suspect the dealership, even if things were covered by the warranty, would do unnecessary replacements of the heater core, pump, thermostat, etc eventually damaging the system's integrity. To me, it was very confusing because it really reminded of a possible airlock, especially since there was a correlation between me adding coolant/revving up the engine and the heater getting back to life. Perhaps a stronger coolant flow would indeed push the valve into its place, who knows. The aux pump mentioned in the first message was suspicious too because of the outgoing hose being cold, but this was probably due to the closed valve, which also makes sense in retrospect. Anyways, the dealership are now requesting if the replacement is covered by the warranty and will fix it, including flushing and re-filling the entire cooling system. I am a bit skeptical about the latter but I guess it's ok as soon as they know what they're doing.

No probs

Hi Sonny1 would you like to say what the problems are.

How old is the battery? A failing battery can throw up all sorts of fault codes through electrical gremlins. What are the other issues it's throwing up?

Yea but you could blank it at both ends.

I'd recommend either turning it off on obd11 or fit the correct stalk. Let's face it Audi wouldn't fit a different stalk for cars with lane assist for no reason.

Hi its Ok I have come across this idea before and recently on youtube with some lunatic hosing down the inlet pipe, it made me cringe as I was present when one of my fellow cabbies had driven his Toyota through a puddle at his speed which had caused compression lock when the mechanic took the head off the cylinder that had the snapped con rod had only about an egg cup of water in it, just enough to lock it up snap the rod in half and then the remainder of the con rod had bashed a hole through the block, game over. The brake fluid idea was used on old engines and did work as brake fluid melts carbon and can be burnt off when the plugs are reinstalled and the engine is started, my mechanic had a customer who was head of the local church he owned an old seventies Dolomite Sprint he used to do a lot of the work himself but didn't fancy a decoke himself so he tried my mechanic who was not keen as removing the cylinder head was nigh on impossible due to bi metal corrosion, all alloy engine, he suggested the cheap fix with brake fluid but forgot to tell him the engine should not be running when he did this just turned over with the plugs removed, the guys nickname was born again Bob and after he tried it with the engine running, when it flamed back through the carb and set light to his hair he was then renamed Burn again Bob which even he found funny. Steve.

Hi this method of decarbonising was used years ago on commercial Diesel engines, Gardener etc just the same as pouring brake fluid into carburettors on petrol engines [NOT WHILE RUNNING] and leaving overnight, carbon build up on the backs of valves is a common problem with direct injection systems, back in the days of inlet manifold mounted injection the mixture of fuel would keep the backs of the valves reasonably clear. Unless you want to scrap your engine observe the following, if you inadvertently spray in to much water you will cause whats known as compression lock as water is not a compressible medium this will have the effect of best case bending a con rod, worse case cause the con rod to snap, if you are super lucky the large chunks of carbon shaken loose will be inducted and go into super heat, then its the turn of the DPF to deal with these superheated fire balls which are so hot and hard that they just stick to the surface of the core eventually causing catastrophic failure of the core. Using a proprietary fuel additive will have the same effect by dissolving the carbon down to a more manageable size for the DPF to pass. Steve.