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All done .Been an amateur it took a few hours to do.In the end i decided to remove the bumper and bring the front end forward a few inches to make it easier to change the pulleys and auxillary belt.It started off well but hit a couple of snags along the way.i had to lean right over to be able to see the hidden bolt at the back of the alternator which when undone realeases the pulley tensioner.and as in one of the pics(33) i had to keep swapping the 13mm spanners overs every time i made a slight turn on the bolt.so i would suggest to anyone who wants to have a go undo that bolt first before moving the front end forward but still a back acher(its a learning process)Also as steve mentioned about the alternator clutch pulley been a fruitless job as even with the two special tools(see pic 1) and all my strength i could not remove it.As for the the idle pulley that was easy enough to remove i believe i used a torx t50.i looked on youtube beforehand to put the belt on and realised after an hour of trying that you need to end up at the idle pulley(forget the one on youtube).A tip from steve do not remove the pin from the tensioner pulley until your certain the belt is sitting in its grooves and around the pulleys properly otherwise it sound like it would be hard to get the belt back on....What a job i had trying to get the pin out.(pic 34 circled)i thought it was a straight pin OH NO I realised after a while that the pin had a dog leg in it.so had to hacksaw it of which is very close to the belt.I found the drain plug(see pic)handy just need to turn it backwards a couple of turns(a bit stiff) with of course a bowl underneath. loosen the antifreeze cap once you have drained the Anti freeze you need to lift the clip up thats on the pipe with a screwdriver(see pic)and then pull and tug but watch your knuckles(experience lol) to remove the pipe..then press the clip back down and when its time to put the pipe back it just clips into place dont forget to close the drain plugAnd of course once all back together i topped up with the pink stuff and checked for leaks(all good)..Doing the job on my own i used a tie to hold the bumper up while undoing both fog light connectors.another tip undo the antifreeze container(just two nuts)as the pipe becomes tight otherwise when pulling the front end forward.you only need to remove the big undertray leave the smaller one in thats at the very front.magnetic tray comes in handy.Overall very happy.thanks all and thanks steve for the tips.😁 pic 1 showing parts i bought(your choice)please ignore double picture.no pink anti freeze showing.removed engine cover and timing belt cover.loosened wheel nuts jacked car up.put two axle stands under the car.removed large undertray removed 2 torx bolts either side of wheel arches peeled them back removed what can be seen in pic 8/9/10 peeled back(tugged carefully) both top corners of bumper.tied the bumper up then pulled backwards and removed bumper out of the way removed connector pic 12 then used pincers to remove plastic holder and undo nut that holds the horn on pic 13.same on the other side. pic 14/15/16 remove crash bar.(2 long bolts either side) plus 6 large bolts(3 either side of bumper one slightly tight above a air con pipe.you will then need a lump hammer to knock the bar out.pic 17 barrier removed.remove pipes pic 18/19.pic 20 drain antifreeze(with cap off) lift clip up on end of pipe.push clip back down one drained and close drain plug.then remove antifreeze container away from bulkhead (2 nuts)to avoid stretching pipe.pic 21 remove 3 torx bolts that holds the bonnet catch in place.pic 22 is part of the bonnet catch be careful to undo. i left in place with a stretch once front end is moved forward.pic 23 leave these 2 torx bolts(one at either side until you find something ready to support the front end underneath once you've undo them and moved the front end forward.pic 24 if you have not removed the tensioner then you can do that now,as long as the nut that holds it in has been removed from the back of the alternator(pic26....pic 25 remove idle pulley with a torx t40?.pic 27 is showing the alternator clutch pulley 2 special tools are needed(see pic 1 showing tools)my tools were ebay item no 33383381371828.(M10 XZN) PLEASE NOTE there are 2 different type from this seller you may need item no332579926956 instead...you will need to check the centre of the clutch pulley to see if it is a six or in my case a 12 torx... pic 28 check belt is same size.pic 29 showing how belt goes.pic 30 showing the shape of the pin in the tensioner pulley again do not remove the pin until belt in its proper place.i thought the pin was straight.no mention of it been that shape on youtube.pic 31 just a spare pic of what this area looks like...... pic 32(circled does not seem right to me on timing. will it be ok.everything is reversal of removal.a bit fiddly putting the bumper front back to line it all up.just be careful when inserting the top right and left corners back.put them in place once the framework is flush with the headlights etc.thanks again all hope it helps.i am only an amateur and expect crititism so i am thick skinned lol😁 total cost for parts £189 euro car parts including pink antifreeze from audi.(dont buy it from elswhere this is good quality thick antifreeze. (pic 35/36)

thanks for the prompt reply steve thats a relief then.i had it in my mind that the arrow should be in the middle.i watch too many youtube videos making me paranoid. the timing according to the bills was 60,000 miles ago.oh no i'me not going there. a garage job.thanks steve

This is brilliant thanks for sharing this 😊

Hi thats the timing belt tensioner, don't know when you last had it done but with those things they are best left alone as when it was done the pulleys would have been pinned out and the tensioner set to the diagram supplied with the kit. Steve.

I’ve got both from fitting OEM blinds to my sons car. Forgot about them until you mentioned it though!

Hi as you say you can't tell from the the videos visually but the the noise rings bells and from the other clue about the emissions failure I would hazard an educated guess that one of the injector seals is blowing by, its a little copper seal that goes between the injector and the seating point in the cylinder head, had it on a couple of my Fords and the sound is familiar, if you follow the clues it points that way as if you were losing cylinder pressure the emissions go up as its not combusting the charge properly, a higher density of unburnt fuel through the exhaust. Steve.

Hi well done and a brilliant photographic documentation of each step of the process, the kit used is definitely a bit of me and I think you are in danger of becoming a seriously good DIY motor mechanic plus there is the satisfaction of knowing its done right!, the alternator clutch has a grip like my missus on my credit card so you have no chance of removal, if you had to do the job again you could do it in half the time as you say its a learning curve. Steve.

I think e5 is selling out faster as people aren't trusting E10. It's all a money making scam as cars running on E10 are getting less mpg.