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Showing content with the highest reputation on 04/02/2023 in all areas

  1. I'd look at replacing the antenna first.
    1 point
  2. So I've solved two problems. I can get the car to start but more important I have a method for checking the starter and solenoid in under 20 seconds. I'm sharing it here but stressing this only applies to my car and variant and you should NOT use this if you don't understand how it works and if you do try it, you do so at your own risk & peril. Have the car in neutral gear and the handbrake firmly on. By measuring with a meter I identified which of the four 404 type relays operated the solenoid. See Pic 1 I then attached a very light gauge wire to the relay leg which fed power to the solenoid. See pic 2. The other end of the wire I simply touched to the +ve jumper peg under the bonnet as my battery is in the boot and with the ignition on it starts. See video. BE AWARE IF YOU DO THIS WITH THE CAR IN GEAR, IT WILL START AND DRIVE OFF, WITH THE CAR LIKELY TO KILL OR INJURE YOU THEN GO ON TO COLLIDE WITH SOMETHING OR SOMEONE ELSE. IMG_4032.MOV
    1 point
  3. Yea, sorry 4 months, not 4000 miles. Still excessive though and around 1000 miles a month, which is kinda what most folk do, 4000 miles is about right. At 7000 plus miles, mine are not wearing anymore than I would expect. Did a search on here for 'tyre wear' and didn't get any hits for excessive wear on Q7s. Did a wider search and seems to be on older Q7s, so hopefully I will not suffer the same. What do most folk here get from their tyres on the Q7? I will report back at 10000 miles.
    1 point
  4. Robert. To clarify my reply which may not have been as clear as it could, you need to check all suspension joints and bushes at both the front and the rear. Tracking then needs to be adjusted at both front and rear.
    1 point
  5. Use long crowbar under the links to lever them up. Any movement at the bushes means they are shot. Tracking (toe-in) at the front definitely needs to be adjusted after renewing any soft bushes and loose joints.
    1 point
  6. My two potential theories is that it is the heater matrix. Or the one thing you've not considered is a failing expansion tank cap. The seal can fail causing the water to escape. Also check the expansion tank for leaks around any joins in the plastic.
    1 point
  7. I had the no crank problem due I thought to a low battery. Charged it overnight still no crank so I checked the fuses at both dash ends. It then started once. The next time I tried it a few hours later it wouldn't start and the battery was <10v. So as I had no other vehicle to go collect a battery, I had Halfords come and fit a new battery. I wrote telling them the battery had to have a BEM number and they would have to recode it to the car. They sent a battery but their fitter wouldn't code it saying it wasn't necessary. When it still wouldn't start he couldn't get out of here fast enough. I have since tried another key switch to no avail. Do you know where I could get the switch pinouts to try and test it tho it would be difficult given the plug/socket type. If I can get a proper wiring diagram I can test out all the components but I can't find anything. Typical VW. Hoard info whilst their dealers aren't interested unless it's a current model. Pity the law doesn't force them to publish all the info they have once their products, our cars, reach say 10 years of age.
    1 point
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