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I've just had clutch and dual mass flywheel changed on 2015 A4 avant. £2482 ...apparently once the garage got into the clutch, the parts had to come from main Audi dealer,no matching pattern kit available, both clutch plate and flywheel. £405 clutch, £1164 for flywheel plus labour and £417 vat...ouch. This is from a trusted garage so I believe them when they say they checked with clutch replacement specialists. Putting car reg into parts suplliers sites, loads of pattern kits come up, but... (I may have been had though, others will no doubt let me know)

Same here no faults at all and all of sudden it all comes up. I’ll add picture next time I’m driving. Got the chance to bring it to someone has experience with that problem I got appointment for the 15th of May so I’ll wait with everything until he might be able to tell me more. I’ll update after that.

We're hearing this a lot from Audi tradition. Apparently it's because the UK isn't in the European union anymore. My advice would be to try eBay. If you're looking for your exact colour code for interior trim this should be on a sticker in the spare wheel well. Or the inside front cover of your service book.

Deposit paid. Due to collect next week. First Audi after being in BM's for years.

It was the pump in the end, luckily not an expensive job! Mechanic agreed most likely on same fuse as wipers. Thanks for your help!

£1300! That's mad. I suppose a second hand part could be an option too?

I'd recommend a diagnostic check to see if any fault codes flag. Could it be an imobiliser issue?

Can't really make anything out in video Phil. Could be somethings fell into that area maybe have a poke around and investigate further... Only thing I can think of is brake disc plate sometime get corrosion and come loose. Total guess work tho .

Mention a clay bar to most non-car folk, and they will probably stare back at you blankly. A staple for detailing shops and enthusiasts alike, it is quite literally a piece of malleable clay that removes contaminants picked from everyday driving like bits of brake dust and road tar. It’s a great idea to do this before waxing because it will ensure the paint is smooth and clean before applying a protective coating. Below is an easy step-by-step guide on how to properly clay bar your ride. Give your vehicle a thorough wash and dry before starting to remove loose dirt and grime. Your clay bar kit (like this one, from Mothers) should come with a big rectangular chunk of clay. Rip off a piece big enough to fit in your hand and reseal the rest in a Ziploc bag. Warm up the clay by kneading it in your hands, and then generously spray the supplied lubricant onto the panel of the car you’d like to start with. Take the clay and gently glide it back and forth on the lubricated panel. It should slide effortlessly, there’s no need to apply too much pressure. If the clay starts to stick, spray on more lubricant. Wipe the area dry with a soft, clean towel afterwards and run the back of your hand along the paint, which should feel like glass. If not, start over again. Examine your piece of clay — it’s likely looking a little dirty. When it looks a lot dirty, fold it in half and massage it until you have a clean side to work with. Repeat this step for each section of the car. I like to start with the roof and work my way down, from front to back because the bottom part of the car tends to be the filthiest. Hatchbacks and wagons also tend to accumulate a lot of grit on the lift gate so you’ll want to spend some more time there. After you’ve gone over the entire vehicle, it’s time to seal in the shine. Grab a bottle or can of your favourite wax and finish the job. See How to wax your car in three easy steps. https://openroadaudi.com/blog/using-clay-bar-detail-your-car-step-step-guide