Leaderboard

£110 including Uk postage

Glad you got sorted 🙂

Sounds a good plan. If you're needing genuine parts, you could try Audi tradition. They sell NOS Audi parts for older models. They're not cheap though.

Bit of an update. The local (Bosch) service garage I used for a recent warranty repair recommended VBT discs Link and I’ll be using OE (Pagid) pads to start with as Brembo X for my callipers are like hens teeth at the moment. They had a good look around for different options but the choices are a bit limited as my front rotors are 314mm. The works being done in three weeks so I’ll post up some photos when the works done. All four discs need replacing so they will be drilled (NOT grooved per everyone’s feedback) all round.

In case it helps anyone, I managed to sort this myself. Swapped the light units and still had the error message when the working right side unit was connected to the left. Assumed it was therefore a wiring problem so took off the boot hinge trim and went searching. Quickly found a broken wire at a bent bit of the wiring loom. Fixed the wire and made sure the wiring loom was properly reseated in the trim. 20 minute job and I'm very much a novice.

Hi sounds very much flywheel, it goes quite when you push the clutch in because that takes up the slack in the flywheel. Steve.

Mine hit status 38 the same week and is now in Grimsby, hopefully get it this week!

Yes, looking at second hand ones now mate.

Hi finest upgrade is high carbon discs that are drilled on the front and just plain high carbon discs on the rear pad wise either Brembo or ATE, the biggest bonus will be achieved by changing the brake fluid using Comma dot 4 ESP, I used drilled ATE front and plain ATE discs on the rear of my cab the fronts now need changing but they have done 70k, grooved discs just eat pads and get bits of crud stuck in the grooves which wear the discs at an accelerated rate with no real benefit in braking performance, on the other hand drilled discs cool quicker as well as dissipating water on the discs during wet weather twice as quickly. Steve.

The water can not evaporate if the system is properly sealed. Nor can it strictly burn, though of course it may leak into the cylinders or air intake and be expelled into the exhaust. Either way the loss should be detected by a pressure test of the cooling system which you said "seems" to be OK. What pressure was the test done at, and how long did it hold pressure? What is the general condition of the engine and has it been correctly serviced? How many miles has it done? Was the water pump renewed when the cambelt was changed?