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Showing content with the highest reputation on 12/16/2023 in all areas

  1. Great info, many thanks Gareth. Opie or whomever, DIY is way cheaper than even the kwik style places. Quality oil and filter is usually 60 odd quid delivered, and I know it’s done properly. Put that against the cost of possible engine damage and it pales into pocket change territory. Brakes, after a bad experience some years ago, with a main dealer I might add, I only trust myself to ensure they are done properly. Having a pad fall out while reverse parking is unnerving to say the least. I’m the same with brake fluid changes, always do this every year. And tyres, nothing but premium brands and changed at 3mm of tread. The wife says I have OCD, probably right too. But these cars carry my family, the most precious cargo of all. Would I trust this to an underpaid dealership mechanic? Possibly a trainee? Erm, no ta. Will try the vendors you mention. I also have my wife’s car to maintain so appreciate the heads up on those guys. As for eBay, I’ve had an oil filter which was suspiciously light. Enough for me to cut it open, and I found it had no filtering gauze etc inside. Basically hollow. So I figured it best to steer clear.
    1 point
  2. Hi! I took the car to a really good mechanic. He said that the injectors are bad, the fourth one is at 3+ mg/cycle. But the first and second injectors are also bad. He said that the shaking is also from the bad injectors.
    1 point
  3. Dear Gareth, The alternator and starter were recently renewed because anyway transmission was down for a timing chain change, and from auto service told me it's better if I do it now. On Monday I will go to a battery store so they can test it out, and if needed I will change it. I will keep it up to date 🙂
    1 point
  4. Hi Steve after a lot of seeing garages and them wanting to charge me to put on machines that tell me already what is coming up with boost control position sensor he said he could adjust it but he said no guarantee which would have cost me 150 pound so I had a thought I went to BP filled car up with BP ultimate I had been used this for a little while but I thought I would fill right up and go on a run but know need for long run as heater plug not flashing since i filled up why i thought of doing this a friend of mine use to get dpf come up when ever he when bellow half a tank so if anyone is out there with this problem please try this first fill car right up with bp ultimate its has worked for me hope this can help others all the very best and all have a happy Christmas
    1 point
  5. Hello Stefan, Electrical issues can be confusing, so always worth eliminating the simple things first. Apologies if this is known, but testing the voltage with a simple voltmeter is meaningless, and the battery (% efficiency) needs to be tested under load conditions. It would be worth getting the alternator output checked at the same time. If a new battery is fitted, then it would need to be coded to the car. Perhaps you could let us know how you get on Stefan. Kind regards, Gareth.
    1 point
  6. Hello Stefan, Welcome, and many thanks for joining, and for describing the symptoms so well. No excuses necessary for your great English grammar. I think you could well be right in suspecting the Comfort Module, but I would add that the lack of the stop/start facility, can be as a result of a sub standard battery, since these vehicles certainly depend on an efficient battery. Do you know how old the battery is Stefan? It’s unlikely that it is the original battery, but not out of the question. Would you be able to get the battery efficiency checked (unless you know it’s a recent replacement)? With any electrical issue, it’s always useful to be able to eliminate the battery as being a contributor to those issues. Kind regards, Gareth.
    1 point
  7. Not yet, as I'm in Hamburg. Fly back tomorrow eve. Will try on Monday...
    1 point
  8. Problem now solved. UK Power sent an engineer out to me and checked the incoming voltage and it was within range. The charger draws nearly 30amp when on full charge so the main house fuse has been changed from 60amp to 100amp. also realised that the surge protection device had failed, so that has been replaced as well. So it seems it is not just a case of buying and plugging in an EV.
    1 point
  9. Thanks Optimus, Magnet, yes - the dealership has ordered a replacement unit and intends to fit it next Wednesday. The plot thickens though, as tonight as I was driving just a few miles home from my location station, I had a yellow "Drive System Fault. Please contact workshop" message appear. Stopped the car, turned off, restarted - no further error. I've read there are many different reasons for those faults. Interestingly when the lead tech of the dealership showed me the error recorded about the latch, he said that all the other errors on the sytem (including that one) didn't have clear information or time/date data - so I will be interested to see what they find when they investigate this. Probably not related, but who knows! I will contact them tomorrow (later today) to see whether they can bring the appointment forward as I have a lot of miles to cover this week and would prefer not to get stuck somewhere. thanks for all the advice!
    1 point
  10. The B3 typ89 FWD floorpan is different to the B4 8C, the front part is nearly the same but the differences in the rear are considerable. You would need to cut out large sections of the floorpan to replace them with Quattro bodyparts in order to accept the subframe and driveline. In order to cut development costs the B3 resembled the earlier types more than the B4 where the back part is closer related to the A4. And dont be fooled, as the B4 coupé and cabriolets secretly are B3’s typ89 and not B4 8C type.
    1 point
  11. Blinking heck Trevor, I’m a fully paid up member of older generation, with many years of experience behind me, but I failed miserably to get this one. Did anyone else get this first off? Kind regards, Gareth.
    1 point
  12. nice looking car,the best of luck with it.Greg
    1 point
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