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Go to the menu, select systems - Servicing & checks - tire pressure monitoring system - store tire pressures - yes store now & the light will go from the dash. Obviously, make sure you check all the tires are inflated to the correct pressure first... & Pump them up to the correct pressure. The cold often causes TPMS issues as the density of warm air is less in comparison to cold air. Around 1/2 PSI per 10 degrees in temperature. Or you could have a puncture or slow puncture. So best to keep an eye on the pressures after you reset, but almost every time it has happened to me it's just the car crying about nothing. It is not unusual for tires to naturally lose 1.3 PSI per month as air gets through the rubber via permeation. Pressures will be in Manual or can be found online... Air can leak from the Tyre, valve, and rim if it's cracked or corroded around the seal. But I would place my bets on a slight pressure drop or a slow puncture. Best to check the Tread condition and for any visible damage to each tyre while you're at it also.

Season's greetings and all the best to you and yours! 🎄

Hi Granola, Followed your clear instructions to the letter. This solved the problem immediately. So grateful for that. Best Wishes for Christmas and the New Year. Happy Audi motoring to everyone. 🚗

Thank you for your reply . I will take your advice and get a lower mileage one or one that’s got more history. It’s a 2.0 tfsi I drove it a few days ago and really liked it , it was also in excellent condition and a good price but like you say could end up costing down the line . My pal advised me to go on here , glad I did now .This is really good advice thanks again .

Hey Tony, 100k is quite a few miles for one of these depending on what has been done to it. I purchased mine at 50k and the Hadlex filter was clogged, this was after it was done 20k miles ago by the last owner. (but still working somehow) Most examples for sale don't have any diff or gearbox oil change history, although some do. Thankfully mine had the DSG oil changed at 35k & 50k. The filter clogs on these which then destroys the pump, this can be fixed in around 3 hours with a new pump oil & filter depending on the level of damage. In regards to the DSG oil, it is more important IMO as this is much much more expensive to repair than the rear diff. Personally, I would look out for one with some history & lower miles, even if it takes a few more months of suffering or saving etc. They are complicated cars and need to be looked after in an OCD-like fashion to avoid issues. Even at 50k, Mine needed a new Diverter, PCV, front door speaker, blower motor & condenser/re-gas. I did most of this myself so It wasn't so bad. Depending on what model/engine you are going for there are quite a few common issues to look out for when purchasing also. The DQ250 & DQ500 are a couple of the best gearboxes ever made, but still need to be looked after. I'm assuming you are looking at either the 2.0 TSFI or 2.0 TDI non-S/RS model, but the same principles of care and maintenance apply to all AWD DSG models. From my experience, unless you drive slowly I would follow the below schedule. If you drive chilled you can probably get away with the standard recommendations. DSG OIL & Filter 20k (Standard Reccomnedation 40k Miles) Haldex OIL & Filter 20k (Standard Reccomnedation 20k Miles) Engine OIL & Filter 5k (Standard Reccomnedation 10k Miles (RIP Turbo if you like to drive)) Brake Fluid 2/3 Years (Bog Standard) Another thing you could do is request the service history from the dealer, Previous Audi's I have looked at had missing history which I simply recovered by requesting it from the dealer. There is a solid chance that buying the higher mileage car with no history will end up costing you more than buying a cleaner example. Hope this helps,

Wishing all forum members and their families a very enjoyable Christmas, and I hope 2024 will be kind to you all. Kind regards, Gareth.

I'm not a mechanic, but i just take my time and use common sense. No such thing as over servicing. As per my previous message, Audi recommend i change the air filter at 60k miles. Crazy, as the engine needs to breathe, and a reduced flow filter will make everything work harder (turbo, engine, etc). Changed every 20k and cost me £12 each time. Thanks, Joe

Thanx Granola, I will follow your instructions and get back to you asap👍

I agree with Gareth. If it is not down on paper or in the Audi system, unfortunately you might get a lower price when you sell it. Saying that, it hasn't put me off. 2020 Q5, and i'm doing most of the work myself. I trust myself more than a garage who thinks of customers as 'numbers' or £££. Using quality parts. Oil (changed every 12k instead of recommend 20k) and air filter (changed at 20k instead of 60k), spark plugs (changed at 30k instead of 40k), pollen filter, brake disc and pads all round, brake fluid, DSG, etc. And thanks for reminding me, i haven't actually done the fuel filter, which i'll look to do when the weather gets better. Just my thoughts, Thanks, Joe

Good morning, I would be looking for £1000 ONO The car would need to go as a whole. I'm not looking to break any parts. It also has a brand new Bosch battery installed. Let me know any thoughts I can get some picture if anyone is interested Thanks

Follow up. The dealership said that the driver's side door handle needed adjustment - it was fractionally out of alignment, which caused it to not fully return to the flush position. This in turn meant that the mechanism was not 100% engaged, which ultimately led to the latch popping open. This in turn attempted to apply the parking brake (parking brake engages when door opens) but at speed, the brake would not apply. They claimed the same errors led to the drive system warning light as well. They adjusted the position of the rubber mounts against which the door handle comes to rest, apparently all round the car, which has resolved the issue. In any case, it's under warranty. Will monitor. thanks for all the thoughts on this one.

Thanks Gareth. Already doing that. The chap I buy my cars from, and have done for 24 years, has requested this for me. He is at SEAT Birmingham, so in the VAG group, got me this car. I recall the Skoda had a label in the boot with lots of 3 digit codes but no luck finding one in the A6 so far. But, while looking in the boot I did find what looks like a subwoofer, at least that’s what googling the part number says, and it seems to point to premium audio. Result! As you might be able to tell, I absolutely love this car 😁

Thanks for the reply. Luckily we managed to find the fault with the Alfa Romeo 159 Q4 and get it fixed pretty cheaply so I'm out of the market for an A6 now. I got so many replies on the Alfaowner Forum with suggestions for possible faults but it turns out that the rear ZF Differential on the 2.4 diesel differs from the 3.2 petrol by having a cylindrical rubber bonded damper on it on which the rubber bond has failed (after 16 years and 137,000 miles) and which was an easy fix! Many more happy miles of Alfa motoring to come!! Guy

You're welcome and thanks Gareth, she certainly will be! She's a Christmas present that came early

Thank you Gareth and to you and yours too. Thank you also for all the hard work, that you and the other Moderating team members have put into this club over the past year, we all appreciate it.