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Hi it may well be the low pressure fuel pump in the tank as if that goes sideways it will throw up codes for the high pressure side as its not getting enough fuel, the throttle valve is probably gummed up but in saying that what is your engine code?, that will have a bearing on your problems as to its operating systems they throw up different codes, to be fair I think the price you were quoted is over what a normal garage would quote by several miles, if you can get me your engine version I can probably get you some sane prices on the parts, the only worrying code is p2002 as thats the low pressure egr cooler thats a nasty thing to replace, the only real way to dig in to this is get it read with VCDS as that supplies the date and time of the fault and it could be that some of these faults are very old and no longer current, I have found this with my car as the milage racks up you get odd random codes which when deleted never rear their ugly head again, ask for a breakdown of what he is actually going to do for the £1850.00 + vat

The judder certainly sounds like the DMF problem, though it could also be a defective clutch. I don't know your engine, so are you sure it has a timing chain not a belt?

I found the same issue under my 05 A4 avant quattro tfsi. Nearly fell over when I saw the extent of the rust above the rear spring supports (hidden under the felt wheel-arch cowling) and bad rust all along under sills from rear to front hidden above the plastic undertrays. NCT in Ireland is pretty thorough but none of this rust was spotted so the car flies through every year. The rust stops where the plastic undertray stops i.e. where the chassis is permanently exposed and can dry out properly. I'm getting the car welded. Plastic undertrays/felt cowlings free to take away - belly will remain naked from now on!

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Over 12 months on from the fire I can post an update on the above. We collected enough video coverage of the vehicle to be sure there was no third party intervention leading up to and during the start of the fire in the early hours. After many hours of discussion over many months with various parties we have concluded that the fire was a result of water ingress into the electrical system caused by high pressure washing during the service intervention three days before. The ambient temperature on the day of the service was 3-5 degrees below zero. The theory is that water directed at high pressure at the front of the vehicle entered the engine compartment and likely then the starter/alternator, ECU or associated connections. This water then froze, due the the ambient temperature at the time, likely damaging plastic housings of either the alternator or plugs/sockets etc. In the days that followed after the short drive home in subzero conditions the ice thawed as the weather improved and water then caused a catastrophic short circuit in the affected components. I must add that we were not able to prove this theory as the damage to the vehicle was too extensive to trace the exact source of the fire, but the heat damage on the alternator and ECU side of the engine was far greater than on the other side. Without simulating a similar scenario we are unlikely to ever know for sure but the recall history for this vehicle also indicates a known week-point with water ingress into the electrical system.

Hi Gareth and many thanks for the reply. As far as the 2022 service goes I havent got the invoice, only a print out of the Audi service record which simply states Gearbox oil and has a tick next to it to indicate it has been completed. With regards to intervals I had a look at the 2018 maintenance schedule and it states that for the DSG/S tronic - "change ATF oil and replace transmission filter element at 40,000 miles and thereafter every 40,000 miles". Happy to wait longer if that is the recommendation, but with 175k on the clock, I am trying to be as kind as possible to the car. Mostly I was interested to find out if the service for the "manual" side of the gearbox was recommended? It doesnt appear to be on the service schedule so maybe not? Thanks again.

Hi Sandeep, Audi The Netherlands helped me once with this problen and wanted me to pay the invoice of around €600. I refused to pay andtold them that this is a structural problem and there is nothing I can do about it. After much whining back and forth they agreed anyway. But I was also very angry and being angry in a showroom full of people wanting to buy a new Audi probably helped because they wanted me to be calm:) I have contacted Audi afterwards and they still don't accept that this is problem is a construction fault. They probably don't want to admit due to the costs it will bring with this type A6. I keep pointing this out to them every time I am at Audi for service. I had the same problem as you that water was getting into the car. What I do now is I always removed the leaves in the fall. I do that around the wipers and under the hood. Also, I open the plastic parts under the hood around the wipers and remove leaves etc here as well. I also use a vacuum cleaner with a long thin hose to get to the parts where my hands can't come and sometimes I also use a a high pressure blower (compressor). If there is still water in there, it has to be sucked out first because that (rain)water will come inside the car once it gets to a certain level. I know, it's ridiculous that you have to do this with a car of this price. This is my 4th Audi A6 and I have more problems with it than this alone. So I think it is the last Audi I bought. I hope this helped. I did not have any problems anymore after I have been removing the leaves (almost every day in the fall).

I'm not sure what size of wheel you currently have, but Audi have told me that I can definitely come down from my 21" wheels to 19", which is what I wanted.

Wowzers!

I wanted a challenge and certainly have one, I have a budget in mind and the end goal would be to see it back on the road and possibly running faster than before but I’m also not stupid. its the reason I joined this forum, to listen to people who know these engines better than the tyre kickers I know . i will keep this post updated and I hope to have a diagnosis by the Tuesday at the latest .. Thanks for the support

Thanks Michael, I hadn’t realised that the arches were covered - not good news. Most MOT testers cover their bums with an advisory similar to ‘Undertrays fitted’. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Cragh, I think it’s one thing at a time, and I’m not sure why you want to plug it into diagnostics. If the coolant temperature shows near enough to cold after a reasonable run, then the chances are it’s a classic case of a failed-open thermostat - pretty simple. Of course it maybe a case of a faulty gauge sender, but…. From the book of simple logic - take the car on an at least 10mile run, switch off and open bonnet and have a feel of the radiator hoses - if the gauge reads low, the hoses should feel warm rather than hot. If they only feel warm, and the gauge reads low, then you have carried out your own diagnostics! If you want to go down the diagnostic route, then the garage should be able to give you an operating temperature during a road test. Just forget about any potential noise/performance issues until you have a vehicle which operates at a correct temperature. One thing at a time! Let us know how you get on Cragh. Kind regards, Gareth.

Looks great 👍🙂

Hi all, I am Darryl or Daz for short, currently running my 3rd Audi Avant, previous 2 having been older model 80's and present is an A6 C6 4F5 2.0Tdi, I am based in Stevenage Hertfordshire and have a full copy of VCDS, (if any body local is ever stuck)

Welcome to the forum you'll find the members on here are a friendly and helpful bunch 🙂

You'll need new lights, modules etc and have it all coded. I'd recommend you speak to autologics or Audi retrofits as members have used them for retrofits and been happy with the results