Leaderboard

Hi All, In the UK, all petrol and diesel come from only a handful of refineries; Immingham, Fawley, Grangemouth, and a couple others. All petrol stations (branded and supermarket) share the same 'base' fuel and add their own additives. The things that cost 'more' money are the additives they add (cost money to develop), and the octane / cetane content. I have Fuelpecker and now WEX, so generally always use ESSO. I also use Millers additive which supposedly adds Octane. I've used supermarket fuel before (and still do on occasion), and for some strange reason, Morrisons fuel has always caused my car to hesitate from time to time, so i do stay away from that if i can. If they are using the same 'base' fuel, it makes me wonder if Morrisons, or other supermarkets reduce what they add to the base fuel (octane/cetane/additives)? Thanks, Joe

Hi they are all the same, in my experience failure of the alternator clutch is rare but if it should occur changing the whole unit is best policy as they tend to last the lifetime of the unit they are on, different if the car has only done 30k and the alternator is good but the only effective way of removal is to take the alternator out then struggle for hours trying to get the old clutch off. Steve.

Hi if they do the service properly and take the sump plug out the brush head will fall out anyway, easy way out is if it is billed with a new plug fitted ask them if they found anything else in the tray as its a family heirloom.

just removed my large front undertray this morning but this is on an audi a4 b8 2011 similar to above but used a torx 25 bit mine are certain type torx screws where you just turn them twice and they are loose enough to pull out.there are 3 torx screws at the back of the tray and 3 at each side of the tray and then i am able to slide the try out backwards....note(if in your case) how the front part of the tray slots in place when putting it back with 2 slots going inside the small tray at the front and two slots stay on the outside of the tray....(note this and take a picture before removing.....you may just need to remove the 3 rear screws(again if in your case) and be able to grab the brush head but it will still mean jacking the car up and putting axle stands under.local garage might be helpful and only charge a small amount.easy enough job for me to do.

A quick google search or Wheel Fitment search on the internet will give you alot of information. Most of it, isnt worth your time reading. But over my 42 years and 36 of them being around cars. I have found that there is plenty of information out there that will help. But you need to know where to look. As far as i am told by a tyre fitter here in town, "you can get 22" wheels on an A5, but it depends on the suspension setup and the width of the wheels". "Your very likely to get rubbing issues and overstress the wheel bearings and bushes on the car but it can be done" "It depends on the Engine, the model and the year" Ill refrain from asking the follow up questions that he put to me in regards to 22" wheels on a "Smaller car". Bare in mind, I drive an A8 and he nearly chewed my face off when i asked him for a price for tyres for 21" wheels...... He went on to say about pickups having wheels that size etc. (Hes a good bloke, ya just have to know how to handle the grumpy sod) Being honest and having had all different types of wheels on all different types of cars over the years, I wouldnt be advising going any bigger than 255/30R20 on the car if you want any kind of longevity out of the wheels or your spine. The roads are not freshly laid nor are the potholes forgiving to any wheel on less than a 25/30 profile tyre (Thats just my opinion)

Thank you, both, very helpful replies. The car is exactly two years old and only now is the screen showing that first service is required. I’ll be booking it in soon but I’m loathed to ask Audi to retrieve it for me. Even a ten second job at their million pound an hour equates to a high cost. I’ll probably wait until after the service before jacking up the front end. I have two 1980s Fords so quite used to laying on my back but I’m getting a bit old for it these days. The vacuum is an interesting thought, I may give it a try before getting out the spanners.

That is clear enough ☺️

Hi nice to find another member that knows their fuel, I learned this long ago from a petro chemist I had in my cab, cetane / octane use of additives can only do more good than harm as they in moderation increase both, its all about increasing thermal burn rate which in real terms actually means lowing it down so it burns more efficiently leaving less unburnt fuel, more bang for your buck, supermarket fuel is blended down using fillers and detergent this gives more volume to the saleable amount IE 20000 litres is increased by 20%, but because detergent is water based it burns far less efficiently leaving more unburnt fuel and moisture which leaves all that sticky tar in the EGR valves on petrol and diesel, further problem being nearly all engines are direct injection so the recycled gas tends to coat the inlet valve backs therefore more sticky gunge in the stream will eventually exacerbate the problem, good dry efficient burn is good, sticky wet moisture laden bad burn is not. Steve.

Hi Dave, 8K0 807 682C 01C Retail £42.66 Cheers, Mike

The only way to truly fix this issue is to bevel the top inner edge of the plastic handle cover. Not a lot of material needs to be removed to properly clearance the handle to the door. Get yourself some touch up paint prior to jumping into this repair. There isn’t any adjustment to the handle mechanism itself. The interior and exterior pieces are held together by an interior locking tab. Once separated and removed from the vehicle you can remove the exterior handle cover (by pushing the metal clip or plastic tab depending on which version you have) and sliding the cover off. Use rubbing compound and repair the scratches to the paint surrounding the door handle/handles. Buff and wax until satisfied. Put a line of tape down across the top edge of the handle cover, about 1/8 of an inch inward tapering out slightly as the handle down turns. Use 320 grit and a hard sanding block to make quick work of wet sanding the bevel or “v” to the edge. Then finish up with 400, 600,… clean the piece. Test fit. If all is well and there is no interference apply a bit of color to the bare white plastic and reinstall. If done correctly you will not see any difference in appearance of the handle and it will no longer scratch your door paint. Cheers

The only comment I can add is posted here 🙂 https://www.audiownersclub.com/forums/topic/25171-audi-a5-b9-tyres-25535-r19/

Hello Esus, It may well be worth have a hands-on opinion from your trusted local garage or independent specialist, before embarking on renewing anything. Kind regards, Gareth.