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The thermostat does not control the fans, that is the job of the temperature sensor. (Strictly speaking, any switch that is controlled by temperature is a thermostat, but let's not be distracted by that as it is contrary to convention in cars.) That the indicated temperature goes no higher than 70 without the fans suggests to me that either the thermostat remains open all the time or that the temperature reading is wrong. Does the temperature reading drop to the bottom of the scale when the engine is cold? Do you have a way to independently measure the temperature using a hand held infra red meter for example? At this stage I can not say whether the ECON fault is related to the temperature fault. I suggest you ignore it for the moment, but bear it in mind if you get other indications of a general electrical problem.

Hello all, I've recently bought the most poverty spec 230k mile A6 in the world! It's a 2.0 TDI, with no bluetooth, no parking sensors, no reversing camera, no leather/electric/heated seats, no map based Sat-Nav! But at least it works, and I quite like it, and it's the cheapest car to run (per mile) of any car I've recently owned! 🙂 (Until diesel prices increase that is.) It is an Audi however, so it does have a check engine light on. It throws codes for an engine mount solenoid, the front passenger door control module (which doesn't unlock the door) and a low battery voltage, so if anyone knows a good place to pickup cheap engine mounts and door control modules let me know! I have made some changes to it, Full oil change, new front brakes, new tyres all round and wind deflectors. I'd love some decent alloys and coil overs in the future, and maybe tint the rear windows. 🙂

Zak. This may seem an odd question, but it is not trivial, and may be relevant to the problems. How old is the battery?

All sorted! I removed both circular ‘hatches’ at rear of xenon headlamps to access the back of both bulbs, to which I eventually applied enough anti-clockwise twist, bayonet-style. I then simultaneously ‘ventilated’ the interior of the headlamp, with the Audi’s own 12v tyre pump tube inserted through one aperture, and using the other as exhaust, whilst applying a hair dryer to the exterior of the front lens. I kept the hair dryer moving, and continuously checked the lens temperature with my spare hand. Two 20’ sessions on consecutive days were required to clear some pretty heavy condensation. Hurrah!

Hi perhaps you would like to expand on a few circuits, you have completely missed the point of the guys post the fact that the car is still not getting up to running temp with or without the fans, I completely agree with Cliff/ Gareth that solving one problem at a time and once the car starts achieving its proper temp, then worry about turning the fans off, the problem I suspect is a faulty fan control unit, the silver box on the fan pack and as they are both running and he can't turn the air con off that is the most likely culprit, as for wind chill the guy lives in Sussex not Siberia, my car used to take a while to warm up at temps around +2 and as soon as the ambient temp got to +5-6 it got very warm, are you a salesman for YouTube sites as they are only worth looking at once you have established the problem, a very wise man I studied under once said, you can spend a lot of money and time trying to cure the the effects of a fault but you really should spend the same time and money curing the root cause.

It almost looks like a faulty connection... like you need to disconnect the camera and clean the connectors and reconnect it. What method of MMI reset did you use?

1. 141k...2. not in the last 3 years since I've owned the car....oil/filter changed in the last 6 months.....I wait about 15 seconds for it to heat up.....so you would recommend leaving that time longer???.....I'll try that and let you know....thanks for your response mate....I really appreciate it.....G.

Hello Jason, Thanks for your latest post, stating that the offending component is the Voltage Stabiliser Regulator fitted to the poster’s vehicle. If Kyle actually replaces this component and the issue isn’t solved, will you be prepared to fully reimburse him his outlay? Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Kyle, To keep it simple, you need to measure any residual discharge at the battery once the car has been locked up, the alarm set, and the whole system has gone to ‘sleep’. As a ball park figure, you would be looking for a drain in excess of around 50mA, if your battery is being discharged via. a parasitic drain. If it has been established that the drain is greater than that, then it becomes a laborious task of removing each fuse in turn until the offending circuit is found. Yes, you could DIY it if you have the correct meters to do it, but it may be one of those tasks left to a a trusted local autoelectrician. Kind regards, Gareth. p.s. Any of this maybe influenced by water/ moisture ingress.

would a hard reset cause any issues with a stage 1 remap ? thanks for your replies much appreciated

Hi Jason, thanks I will have a look at the relays this evening.

Hello Stephen and welcome. If this were mine, I would treat this on a one thing at one time principle. Not reaching temperature is typical of a failing/failed thermostat, so that would need investigating and then renewing to ensure the car is operating at the optimum temperature. Once it’s operating at 90 degrees, you can then set in motion a plan of action for the remaining issues. Kind regards, Gareth.

The halogen bulbs are 5w and so are these led bulbs that I put in, the rest of the bulbs are working fine in the car. I'll admit that electrics aren't my strong point. And I'm pretty sure there was no fault codes when I plugged it in the other week.

I replaced the original halogen bulbs with new led bulbs, all the other bulbs are still working fine but the 2 behind the pan roof just seem to break in ½, I've now replaced those with 2 different types and are working fine. I was just wondering if anyone knew if it was possible that the bulbs and the washer motor stopping working could be linked?

Just bought a 2007 audi A4 S line. Does it sound healthy? 20240303_142935.mp4

My daughter's 2012 A1 was getting rainwater in from behind the glove box. I removed the wiper arms, the plastic scuttle and saw there is a plastic channel which is supposed to drain rainwater away. This channel sits above the air intake for the a/c. The channel is quite narrow and my guess is rainwater can overflow from the sides and then find its way into the a/c blower. I cut a 12 inch long and 1.5 inch wide strip of hard plastic and taped it under the channel so that any overflow is directed away from the a/c air intake. This was about 6 months ago and she has not had the water ingress problem since.

hi jason i was told that when removing the alternator pulley to remember its opposite thread.but mines a b8....can you confirm this.i could not get mine off in situ.it needs to be on a bench.i left mine as was ok.it was only at the time i had changed all the other rollers.regards stephen

Ok. Understood

Having had a A8 D3 with Bose for 12 years and now a D4 facelift with it for a year, I wouldn't bother. I loved it in the D3 and was looking forward to the 10 years of advances in the D4, but It sounds just like a normal car stereo to me, very cheap and nasty speakers and sound is nothing special, no front staging like the D3. Like so many things these days, more of just a branding exercise. It sounds exactly like the BOSE in a 66 KIA Sorento we had and not worth the hassle and expense of the retrofit. I see lots of similar posts on various forums so have discounted me just being unlucky.

Glad you got sorted 🙂

Update for whoever finds this thread in future. Apparently my expansion tank is a different revision and has no physical silica bag inside. So no burst silica bag. Also checked with VCDS for errors but aircon unit had no faults. I ordered an original Valeo heater matrix from Germany for less than 100€, disassembled the entire central tunnel and replaced it. No leaks around the AC site, but the old heater matrix was almost 100% blocked. After cleaning it I tried to blow inside but only very little air was coming out. Compared to the new it was day and night. Reassembled everything, refilled the lost coolant, reset all the errors. Aircon works again, even hotter than before. After another small trip of 1000 km coolant level seems to be stable. Will keep an eye on it in the next weeks.