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Hi Mark what you have posted is a picture of the drive motor code but I expect Jason already knew that but forgot to mention it, if your new calipers have the drive motor attached they should be plug in and play as most aftermarket rigs like this are fitted with an electrical shunt, you could always use the callipers without the motors if yours are working ok and just bolt your motors to the new caliper these units tend to be a lot cheaper.

I think I'll still be doing mine every 5 years or as close to it as I financially can, purely for my own peace of mind. On my Audi app now it even shows up, saying it's to be changed every 225k with no time interval below it.

Hi all New to Audi, now here, and new to forums lol I've recently bought a 2010 2.0tdi convertible and love it. I have come across some small problems so hopefully some of you guys might be able to help Thanks for the add

Okay thanks it’s booked in with Audi for another issue which the independent cannnot do as it’s a software update so ill just get them to look at it then. if it’s something expensive I’ll then go back to the independent for the work

Eventually used the MyAudi website and set up a chat. 5 mins later had confirmation that I had adaptive headlights and they would automatically adjust to driving in Europe. Thanks again

Thanks Jason, will give that a go and let you know how I get on. Appreciate the response

An update on the above: Booked an appointment with a local gearbox specialist - earliest I could get is 22/03/24. Took the car to get some fuel last weekend, and it was driving OK below 30mph but still making the noise above 30mph. No lights on the dash, no warnings etc. Above 30mph the car felt like it was juddering and when taking my foot off the brake (its automatic) the car was slowing down a lot more than it should be. Turns out the front right brake had ceased again (was extremely hot after the short drive) - so I had 4 new discs fitted, and pads all round, and replaced the front right calliper. The noise was still evident - I thought if the brake calliper had been intermittently failing with unnoticeable signs, this may have stressed out the new wheel bearing I fitted in October. Jacked the car up - no play in the wheel Took the hub bolt out - no play in the wheel Took the wheel and calliper off - no play when trying to wobble the disk Took the wheel bearing hub assembly off (4 bolts at the back) and inspected the bearing, this identified a lot of play, and grease leaking out the seals. Changed the bearing again, and the noise has now completely gone 😃 I do have another problem now though, which I'm not sure whether it's due to the above or not - possibly! There is a rattle coming from what I've investigated to be under the transmission bell housing. The rattle is evident when idle, in neutral, in drive/reverse but only when the brake pedal is pressed (auto). Once the brake is released and car starts moving, the rattle goes. I'd suspect this is the dual mass flywheel - I'm going to keep my diagnostic appointment on the 22nd and get it 100% confirmed.