Leaderboard

Last month I had a rear caliper fitted to my 1.4tfsi. It has an EP brake. searching around I found prices to be all over the place. you can get them new (with motor) from eBay for about £90! prices go over £300 plus… and some vendors charge a surcharge for your old caluper. I settled on one for £177 inc vat. (No surcharge) from brakes international. I paid £80 labour to have it fitted at a local Audi specialist. i dint look to buy a caliper without motor .. I wasn’t aware this was an option !?? I guess if money is no object, you could replace both callipers at the same time but callipers do not necessarily require changing in pairs based on the off chance the one not replaced is going to fail any time soon.

Andrew - ive not done this work but have stripped and re-roofed a car so I've been there,- removing the headlining is not that easy but I fancy with roof half open you may get enough slack and access to remove and replace rams. You can wedge the roof in this position 'half' - usually without damaging things- and you need wedge because it won't stay there. The key thing is that youll have to top up fluid in the pump and to get access most of the boot's lining may have to come out. None's too difficult but time consuming and so potentially expensive. There's no one i'd recommend. There are good hood trimmers but few may want the mechanical work. You'll need green hyd fluid for the pump and it must be filled to a set level, which you can just about see with your head on the boot floor.

New to the forum and need some advice. I’ve owned a 2022 A3 Saloon for around 1.5 years and have , since owning it, had an annoying sound when braking. the sound is a light grinding sound, almost like a scrape (without the squeal of dying brake pads) which appears when braking at low speeds (5-0mph). The sound isn’t too bad when the car is cold, but once driven for more than 10 mins it appears and gets worse in stop start traffic. i raised this with the Audi dealer when I picked it up and they said it was normal. I’ve since driven other A3’s of the same year and different Audis and none have this issue. I mentioned this again at its first service. Dealer advised that the front brake pads have 40% left and therefore should be changed and is likely the cause of the issue. I hesitated as the sound is very clearly only coming from the rear of the car. We changed the brake pads ( to the sum of £300!) and the issue went away for about 30 miles then reappeared . (I assume they oiled the back brakes maybe?) The car is in for its second service and I have requested that they look at this issue again. They have, and say that their technicians can’t notice anything but then said that they are aware that the auto gearboxes can create this noise. Im going tomorrow to take a technician out for a ride along to show them the issue, however I can’t understand how the sound, which only appears when breaking and is pinpointed to the rear brakes (even had someone stand outside the car who could hear it from the rear wheels). does anyone have any ideas? I’m not happy with taking the car away again with this persistent issue, or them saying it’s one thing, paying for a fix and then it still persisting. thanks!

Hi guys, I’m looking at updating my satnav maps only, is this data read from the SD, or do we load the new update into the MMI then replace the original SD card back into SD slot ! My correct SD date is dated 2012 ( same year as the car ) so my next question is, dose the card contain the complete Satnav programme , or just the maps ??? thanks in advance

Hi sounds like you have done all the basics, well done, please report the end result as it makes good reading for anyone with the same problem in the future. Steve.

Thanks. Hi you can just separate the two with the original connection left plugged in I have always done this in the past as some of the cheaper units have had problems with the electronics in the drive motor, I have been thinking very hard on this and have another possible solution, when you said the calliper was binding did you mean that the wheel resists being turned by hand with the car jacked up and no parking brake?, if so check the following before condemning the calliper, there are slider pins on the top and bottom of the unit these are in a rubber boot assembly, retract the the EPB and take the securing bolts out, with the calliper clear test the movement of the pins in the rubber boots there should be very little resistance to you pulling them in and out, if there is chances are the pins are dry or worn and will hold one side of the pad set on normally the piston side, repair kits are plentiful and cheap, the other consideration is how long have the old pads been in situ as I have found through experience that on cars that only do average milage over years the pad location runners tend to corrode to the carrier so the piston side wears faster as the crud on the outer runners prevent the outer pad from pulling in as much so its all on the piston side, so worth stripping and cleaning as it may well cure your problem without the need for a new calliper, brake fluid change highly recommended. Steve.

Sorry if my 2+2 is adding up to more than 4, and it could just be me, but that could be interpreted as being rather sinister. As a Moderator, I wish to formally divorce the forum from further comment on this open-to-all-to-see thread.

I always go to the German ebay sites when stuck, using translators on my computer etc. https://www.kleinanzeigen.de/. I usually find a breaker or specialist who has parts or has a lead, providing my comms are polite and earnest

I honestly don’t care if garage are to blame aslong as they cover the cost to have it repaired.

Welcome to the forum you'll find the members on here are a friendly and helpful bunch 🙂

Update for whoever finds this thread in future. Apparently my expansion tank is a different revision and has no physical silica bag inside. So no burst silica bag. Also checked with VCDS for errors but aircon unit had no faults. I ordered an original Valeo heater matrix from Germany for less than 100€, disassembled the entire central tunnel and replaced it. No leaks around the AC site, but the old heater matrix was almost 100% blocked. After cleaning it I tried to blow inside but only very little air was coming out. Compared to the new it was day and night. Reassembled everything, refilled the lost coolant, reset all the errors. Aircon works again, even hotter than before. After another small trip of 1000 km coolant level seems to be stable. Will keep an eye on it in the next weeks.