Leaderboard

Hi. I changed the battery in the main key yesterday, and it did not fix the issue. However, the fault didn't appear today for some reason. I hope it will stay that way.

I am guessing it will need a belt soon as it was around 5 years ago it was done. I have checked the MOT history which does look very good overall. There is a picture of a lot of documents but I will get them sent over email so I can pre-inspect them. Thanks again and hopefully more Q5 owners may give me some advice too. Never bought an old, high mileage car so very very wary!!

Hi, many thanks for the replies, the car is not actually mine, it belongs to my GF. I will have a look first chance I get and see what bulb's are fitted.

Hi Sean Wheel arrived and fits OK👍 It's a 19" but it has the same rolling radius as the 17" wheels My only slight concern is that it's resting on the battery cables, so as shown in the photos as a temporary fix I've cut up a few pieces of carpet which are now taking the weight. Will get some hard foam for a permanent fix (if the factory under wheel foam takes the weight I might source one of those) Note - you have to junk the tyre gunk and compressor container

Hi the milage is not so much of a worry as they do that with ease provided they have been serviced regularly, ask for any service history the main ones being clutch and timing belt changes as if there is no evidence at that milage they could be looming heavy expenses especially if the car is auto, having said that the best way is to have a diagnostic read out before purchase this will unearth any underlying problems. Steve.

Welcome to the forum you'll find the members on here are a friendly and helpful bunch 🙂

Hi on the contrary, thank you for posting your resolution as it gives the other people who read this a chance, as so many people just fix the problem and never post the resolution, its like watching a really good film and the TV packs up fifteen mins from the end, I wasn't quite sure about the coding at first and then dredged my memory about the electrical shunt which I was told about a long time ago, it performs the way a can bus does by fooling the control module in to thinking its the original, this is also done on most aftermarket alternators to get round the coding drama. Regards Steve.

All went smoothly. No issues with coding. I ended up changing the complete calliper and actuator assembly - the new one feels super smooth in comparison to the original. Thanks for your assistance.

Hi Colin it would be better to establish if these are original headlights or retrofit/aftermarket, the way to do this is inspect the top of the units with the bonnet up, if they are factory there will be a sticker on top with the part code if thats present it may well be as simple as a wiring fault, please post some pictures that would be a great help. Steve.