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Looking to sell my Audi Q5 2011 S-Line Quattro 2.0Tdi in black. 152k Miles, Mot runs out this week. Looks and drives well but i'm about to get a car through a salary sacrifice scheme so seeing if theres any interest out there. Car has 20" audi alloys with 275/45/20 tyres all with tons of tread left on them, no damage to walls. Was due to go for mot this week but external drivers door handle no longer opens the door. Taken door card off and can see the cable has snapped so is an easy fix, i'm just no good with anything like that. 5 previous owners, part service history Priced to sell, £2500. Will take some pics when weather clears up.

I most do town driving so mileage isn't great 25-30mpg on short journeys. I went to London and back and on a round trip and I managed 50mpg + 😲. I was quite shocked when i checked my short journeys on the trip computer when I got home. It was a mixture of motorway and town driving but didn't expect 50+ mpg from a 190bhp 2.0 engine sitting at 65-70mph on the motorway with AC on auto. Thought I'd share some good news for fellow petrol heads of similar engine. 🙂 Anyone else managed to eek out more then 52.3mpg to b exact from their 2.0T TFSI engine 190bhp?

I just bought the wheel only for £169 as I already had a suitable jack. It's supposed to fit any b9 variant as the rolling radius of the 17, 18 & 19" wheels are virtually the same. There may (or not) be issues on front brake caliper clearance so best to fit to the rear wheels replacing a flat front with a good rear.

Update: i've put the vehicle through the MOT now so as it has 12 month MOT the price will be revised accordingly. Picking it up from garage later today so will upload photos tomorrow.

Hi Eric, I totally agree with your guy, not done the job myself but watched it being done over about eight hours and the next day was the belt change, the rear most cam timing has to be spot on after removing the sprockets, get it wrong and you will end up with 100ks worth of scrap metal, I can see his train of thought, if it aint broke don't fix it, reading between the lines mechanic friend denotes either a favour or a very cheap labour rate, I can understand his reticence. Steve.

Thanks for now letting us know that you have sorted it Dean. Could you give more details of how you actually sorted it, so that it might help others in the future. I think Larry was trying to be helpful, so perhaps a thanks to him would be in order. Kind regards, Gareth.

Going on full VCDS fault code read this Friday, talking to numerous Gearbox specialists and the excellent guys at "ECUtestingltd" (Excellent You Tube Video for anyone else with similar issues on here ) who really know these 7 speed S-Tronic gearboxes and Mechatronic units inside out ( and in fact do various work for Audi Main Agents ) it seems my symptoms point heavily towards a Mechatronic fault, maybe the pressure sensors, valves or most likely the circuit board itself just starting to break down and sending the wrong pulses at the wrong time ........ know more once we've pulled the codes, then hopefully its just a case of removing the Mechatronic unit and sending it off to be completely reworked with new hard and software.

I did get a 3 month warranty when I got the car so I’ll be looking into that as soon as it’s diagnosed and I’m sure they told me I can use a garage of my choice. I’ll let you know when I find out, be biting my nails till then.

Hi Sean Wheel arrived and fits OK👍 It's a 19" but it has the same rolling radius as the 17" wheels My only slight concern is that it's resting on the battery cables, so as shown in the photos as a temporary fix I've cut up a few pieces of carpet which are now taking the weight. Will get some hard foam for a permanent fix (if the factory under wheel foam takes the weight I might source one of those) Note - you have to junk the tyre gunk and compressor container

I like these games of "guess my most vaguely described symptom" - it helps pass the time. lol You haven't mentioned how the clutch was operating, nor the size of the oil leak, nor where it's coming from other than an indirect way, vaguely, and those are crucial to understanding your problem more. At a guess you have already had the problem fixed, but here's my guess, interested to know if I hit it: For this symptom If it was grinding and wouldn't go into gear with the clutch depressed, and the pedal is soft or feels loose, and goes to the floor easily, unlike when it was working, and if the oil leak is minor and the brake fuild level in the reservoir is reasonable, it is usually the thrust bearing worn out or its yoke is broken. If the brake fluid has drained out, then the hydraulic fluid leaked out of the clutch slave cylinder, since you suspect the driveshaft seal y9u lead us to think it is at low level, but if there is a leak from higher up then it is likely leaking from the clutch master cylinder. Otherwise, depending on the actual type of the grinding noise, and if gear can be selected, then it was most probably your clutch plates contaminated with oil and slipping so the car goes nowhere. You would have founnd it was slipping before and getting worse. But if there was no significant oil loss and the metal on metal grinding is quite loud, then It is probebly worn out, would produce a smooth continual oscillating metal on metal grinding noise when the clutch is released in gear, if you have ever heard brake disc / pad grinding it is similar but quieter. A drive shaft seal would not be connected to the clutch mechanism. Which one was right? If none oif these, what was the cause and what were the true symptoms?