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New to the forum and need some advice. I’ve owned a 2022 A3 Saloon for around 1.5 years and have , since owning it, had an annoying sound when braking. the sound is a light grinding sound, almost like a scrape (without the squeal of dying brake pads) which appears when braking at low speeds (5-0mph). The sound isn’t too bad when the car is cold, but once driven for more than 10 mins it appears and gets worse in stop start traffic. i raised this with the Audi dealer when I picked it up and they said it was normal. I’ve since driven other A3’s of the same year and different Audis and none have this issue. I mentioned this again at its first service. Dealer advised that the front brake pads have 40% left and therefore should be changed and is likely the cause of the issue. I hesitated as the sound is very clearly only coming from the rear of the car. We changed the brake pads ( to the sum of £300!) and the issue went away for about 30 miles then reappeared . (I assume they oiled the back brakes maybe?) The car is in for its second service and I have requested that they look at this issue again. They have, and say that their technicians can’t notice anything but then said that they are aware that the auto gearboxes can create this noise. Im going tomorrow to take a technician out for a ride along to show them the issue, however I can’t understand how the sound, which only appears when breaking and is pinpointed to the rear brakes (even had someone stand outside the car who could hear it from the rear wheels). does anyone have any ideas? I’m not happy with taking the car away again with this persistent issue, or them saying it’s one thing, paying for a fix and then it still persisting. thanks!

Hi I hope you bought the three seals as well, radial shaft seal that goes in the slave cylinder, the driveshaft seal for the diff side, you have to take the diff cover off to get at it, then we have the crankshaft seal behind the flywheel and ring gear if thats leaking thats a whole new level, no point in dodging it as it just gets worse and coats the friction plate in engine oil, bit of advice put a bit of plastic over the brake fluid reservoir before !Removed! the lid back on and wrap the end of the pipe in clingfilm when you remove it from the slave cylinder, finally you have to put a bungee on the clutch pedal to stop it falling on the floor, this also stops fluid loss via the master cylinder which iff allowed to travel to the end of the cylinder body will ruin the piston seal so you will need a new one of those as well, I hope you have a four poster to use as the gearbox weighs a ton it took three of us to lift it off of the gearbox jack. Steve.

I've had a look on the forum but I've not yet had the chance to look at the fuel cap recess! I will, soon and get back to you.

Nice’ how much is it lowered and how does it ride on the new springs?

Hi Wayne I don't think its the relay it is most likely the motor, because they are a cr@p design and fail frequently over the 190k I had the car I went through three rear motors all with different symptoms of failure, constant running, parking of wiper arm in multiple positions, no wiper at all, this is due to water ingress in to the control box PCB, never changed the relay ever, but if you use reverse logic if it works why is the relay at fault, most common symptoms of relay failure are, intermittent function or no function at all. Steve.