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Apologies for the gripe, but the forum has recently suffered from a spate of what can be termed ‘Post and Run’ new members, who seem to think it’s perfectly acceptable to post a plea for help, and simply not return to view the help given. In a more diluted form, help is offered, but is very rarely acknowledged even via. a simple press of the Like button, leave alone a posted Thank You. The last part of the gripe is that we frequently have to ask for additional information, and this extra detail often never materialises. Please remember, everyone who posts replies do so without payment, but it certainly does cost them in time - in terms of the Moderators and Admin back up - a lot of time. So a special plea to all on here who post needing help:- please be respectful enough to acknowledge any help given, rather than simply accept it as a no-cost, no time of yours, free advice service. It’s wearing thin folks, so if you want to retain this service, please respect and acknowledge its benefits. Thank you all for reading this, and above all, agreeing to adhere to the respect that is needed to be shown. Kind regards, On behalf of the Moderators. Please note:- This request is to all members, not just new ones.

Hi all, just picked up a 2005 1.6 petrol as a run around. Hopefully be able to get it running like it’s new from the advise off here!

hi gareth and clifford thanks for your replies been so busy lately will update asap maybe tomorrow kind regards stephen

Ricky. As Magnet said, the test needs to be done with all plugs out and the throttle wide open. Hot or cold makes no significant difference as long as all tests are done under the same conditions. Crank the engine until the pressure reading is stable, which should only take a few revolutions. The absolute readings for each cylinder are not as important as differences between cylinders, so if you find one cylinder or one bank is much lower or higher than the others you have a real problem. In your position I would not be spending money on new injectors or any other parts until the head has been taken off for inspection of the valves and cylinder bores. I would find the fundamental problem before spending, possibly wasting, money on unnecessary new parts.

I recall reading on this forum that some folk have replaced the DMF with a one piece solid flywheel. I have no idea how it affects vibration or what it costs, but it is worth reseaching.

Hello Stephen, Really sorry to hear of your expensive issue, and can well respect the economics of it. Re. Sachs:- Am I right in thinking they have amalgamated (or similar) with LUK? I think it’s worth Googling for the appropriate phone contact for their Technical chaps and asking there. Being pessimistic, I think you might find it’s the DMF is the supply difficulty, since they may only be supplying VAG direct. Wonder if you would be kind enough to keep us posted on how things pan out. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hi it's petrol .. thanks for you reply I will look into it

Hi you have omitted to say if the car is diesel or petrol, if its diesel you are wasting your time as you can fit a bigger bore pipe which may well give you a bit more torque but not a lot of change in the noise department, on the reverse with petrol you can fit larger bore exhaust with a free flow baffle box, this will definitely give more noise but rob you of a lot of mid range torque as petrol engines require a fine tuned amount of back pressure to perform adequately, if you are set on doing this I would consult a sports exhaust specialist with your requirements. Steve.

Welcome Ricky and thanks for joining. Obviously you have to home in on cause of the low compression on some cylinders - either worn bores/pistons &rings, or valve seating issues. What is the history of this vehicle? How long have you had it; mileage; what do you know of its earlier history; did it have this issue when you bought it; does it suffer from oil consumption etc. etc. Some will claim that if you inject a teaspoon full of oil down into the offending cylinder, any temporary increase in compression value indicates worm bores association rather than valve seating. I don’t completely buy into that theory since some of the oil will be sprayed onto the valve seats. Way forward as I see it:- check you have valve clearance on the offending cylinders, and the cam lobes are fine. If so, then it’s head/s off at assess and correct the issue. Perhaps you could let us know how you get on Ricky. Kind regards, Gareth. p.s. What part of the U.K. are you in?