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Thanks Chris, Re updating:- asked a couple of times. Objective:- your experience and our advice builds up the picture which will be of help to others in similar situations in the future. Without your updating, everything degenerates to no avail. Kind regards, Gareth.

Same issue has happened to me last week. It is bought from Audi approved dealer in 2019, have serviced only in approved Audi every year and it has leaked fuel on my driveway, because of the same reasons. it is 17 plate and 38k milages. this is a complete shock for me to see that sane thing is happening to many. I will definitely escalate this to Audi UK and give an update in here, if some progress happens.

Hi Gareth, that's good advice, and this is exactly how I am driving. Like the chauffeur from 'Driving Miss Daisy'.

Hello Greg, Treat this car like the local vicar would, to improve your chances of the clutch lasting as long as it does. Build up speed very gently when entering dual carriageway. Sorry, can’t resist this :- don’t do duels with dual carriageways! Good luck with getting it to last. Kind regards, Gareth.

Does courtesy not exist any more?

Did the new lock have an integral switch, or did you attach the old switch. The other thing to look at is the wiring between door and pillar. The wires had a habit of breaking in the older A3s.

You'll be lucky. Bear in mind that the more it slips, and it will get progressively worse, the more fuel the car will burn.

Thanks for that Gareth, I have changed the drivers lock yesterday thinking that would solve it but it hasn't. I will.get it plugged in and see it that shows anything. Thankyou again

Battery was tested by RAC The car has been locked and unlocked. There is no visible dim to the lights on the dashboard - video attached 20240820_165013.mp4

Hi Richard, I noticed your post, and having recently bought an Audi A4 b6 1.9 tdi. I thought I would take a peek and find out what might be in store for me in the future. However, looks like I am the first to respond. The only thing I might be able to shed some light on is the TD engine, my previous car was a VW Passat with the same engine. Although the timing belt lasted, I had problems with the tensioner, which on one occasion de-tensioned, fortunately it was slow and the engine just slowly misfired into a stall. On another occasion, the bracket that holds some sort of spring loaded pin to give more tension to the belt failed. Fortunately, I was going about 5 mph over a speed bump in a country park, so no damage to the engine. and the car went on to cover 240,000 miles before I wrote it off in a crash. But they do seem to be bullet proof. The A4 I have now has done 149,000 miles, but the previous owner has spent a fortune on the suspension and front sub frame replacement. However, He did live by the sea and that might be one reason for this. One issue I have is the temp gauge never seems to read correctly, unless the outside temp is 25 degrees. It was exactly the same on the Passat. which had the temp sender at the back of the engine replaced with no difference. I had the same changed, and the thermostat on the A4. All was good for about a month, now it's back to previous indications.

I have a 2015 A3 s-line convertible and are looking to widen the stance I have seen a couple with wheel spacers but not sure what ones are the best to use etc. can anybody help?

Thanks Clifford, I will start saving up now, just hope it lasts until March next year.

You are right that the clutch is slipping, which is not surprising if it is the original clutch.

Got my Q8 4 months ago, 3 months old, and the dealer set me up on the system as a key user, but didn't pass on the key fob with the car ID. By accident (!) I managed to delete myself, and couldn't add me back again. Called Audi support and with in 3 days, a short video call, they set me up again. No issues, just did the job, no charge. Brilliant! And if you do get an Audi from a dealer, don't let them NOT give you the key user ID car code....

Hi thats how I lost my car, the AGM batteries cause all sorts of problems, in my case the discs and pads were new and the battery decided to have a voltage drop and released the parking brake, according to the engineer we get loads of cars like yours and thats why anything post 2020 has an EFB battery they tend to not have these sort of problems, might be your battery h is not producing enough power to operate the release, wreathe pads free enough? Steve.

Ahh I see I may ask the dealer when I next pop in as its a pain tbh Thanks for relying

Hi Rick A friend of mine disabled his boot swipe using his vehicle scanner. Don't ask me how, that sort of thing is way beyond my pay scale. Tony

Hi everyone, I am looking at purchasing a 3.0 tdi C7 but have got quite a tight budget of under £7k. I've managed to find a couple but this one has caught my eye. https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/1241185200196865/ 2013, 165K with good history and just had a service including the DSG. The owner has done me a walk round video too - hopefully it's uploaded. Is there anything I extra I need to be aware of other than the timing chain rattle, history, and DSG services? I've checked the MOT history and that seems OK too. Any help would be gratefully recieved. Thanks 😁 received_903662844919641.mp4

To change the lights over to the newer led ones is fairly straight forward from memory but the cost can soon add up as there are quite a few parts needed that you might not realise. The headlight buckets are different and need to be changed otherwise the headlights don’t fit, if your car is an s line then it will have adaptive headlights and with the led headlights there are two types bi xenon and tri xenon. If you fit bi xenon then you will get an error message on the dash display to say adaptive headlight fault and the a flashing bulb symbol that will stay on all the time. You can remove it by coding the adaptive lights out using vcds but you need a fairly recent version and somebody that knows what they are doing to find it. You will also need to get headlight adapter harnesses as the original plugs aren’t the same (can’t remember if the plugs are the same but the pins are different or if something needs to be done for the led indicators lower down). The rear led lights need an adapter wiring harness and coding in vcds. Sorry there’s probably a few bits that I’ve missed but I and some friends did it to our cars years ago and can’t really remember. It’s not something that’s really done that much now as the pre facelift cars have dropped in value and the newer lights etc are still up at silly prices 2nd hand so 2 grand isn’t an unrealistic figure to buy all the bits needed.

Thanks Chris, but to change the battery without testing it would be impulsive. Not cheap, will need to buy a good brand, and battery will need to be coded to the car. Change if proved to be substandard. Come back to us if it does, and we can point you in the right direction for good deals. Kind regards, Gareth.

Welcome to the forum Chris you'll find the members on here are a friendly and helpful bunch 🙂 please check the events section for shows we're attending this year 👍