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will update you all when the clutch and m.o.t are done. it was booked in for the 18th sep but i broke down on tuesday(10th sep) so they have had the car since then thanks all for now.stephen

Thanks for the comments Daniel - technical and personal. I’m glad you now have it sorted, and sorry to hear advice on here has been fruitless. I take it you are therefore unlikely to return, so in case that’s right, I wish you luck with getting any future issues sorted. Kind regards, Gareth. p.s. Any particular reason for signing in with a new user name!

All sorted , jacked up front wheel ,liner removed ,front sensor changed ,followed a video on YouTube for rear bumper removal ,FYI you can leave the 3 screws on opposite side wheel arch in place.I bought 2 sensors but the rear is different from the back had to slice a small peice of plastic away on inside of bumper with a Stanley knife but heho it still fitted ,I am not mechanically minded at all ,but all in all it was quite easy ,thanks again 👍👍

Angela. Let me emphasise Gareth's comments. The crankshaft oil seal may be a small and relatively cheap component, but it requires an enormous amount of work to get access to it. That's why the job costs so much to have done. At nearly a quarter of a million miles I'd say the seal has done remarkably well to survive this long, and it would be unreasonable to expect more from it. I also suspect it won't be long until other major components start to fail leading to more repair bills. I reckon its time to assess whether it's economically viable to keep the car running. Do so if you really love the car, but don't expect it to be cheaper than buying something newer.

Welcome Angela and thanks for joining. Sorry to hear of your plight. The important piece of missing information is - how severe is this leak, and what inconvenience is it actually causing you, that makes it difficult to live with? If it’s the rear crankshaft seal then it’s either gearbox (automatic?) out, or engine out to fix this. Is the leak bad enough to result in an MOT failure, or has it been previously listed as an Advisory? If you can live with it between MOTs, then you could consider getting the offending area cleaned just prior to MOT and hope you get away with it - which you may well do, unless it’s a drip. There are so called ‘Stop Leak’ products on the market, which you add to the engine oil. Personally, I don’t favour them since they effectively ‘attack’ the rubber of the seal, and will affect other engine seals. I suppose it all boils down to:- Severity of leak? When MOT due? How long do you intend to keep it? I think you already appreciate that fixing it would be an uneconomical process with a car of this age, unless it is a low mileage/ superb in all other respects - example. Perhaps you could colour in the detail and let us have your thoughts Angela. Kind regards, Gareth.

Update - so reset my car Wednesday and got in Thursday morning and all was still there. Came home Thursday lunch and haven’t been in my car until this morning. at first thought it had all reset again.. however my MMI screen took 1 minute to load and when it did it asked to choose my user or a new one so I clicked me as always but then it said something about configuring user settings and then the radio station changed from radio 2 to the one I left it on and all my settings were there that I had done so seems the reset has possibly worked for me. Will see how it goes for the next week but fingers crossed it’s resolved.

Unfortunately the unit will need to be replaced. You maybe able to get a specialist to recondition it but I would guess that it won't be much cheaper than buying a replacement cluster. It's dead simple to replace (youtube is helpful), but be careful as the are many variations/different part numbers and there are different styles over the years. There is also the standard colour and there's a darker tinted colour, so make sure you get one that matches your current cluster

Bought a new Audi S3 from Audi Newcastle 10 days ago. First day after collection the favourites , radio sat nav etc were lost. Re set and held overnight but then later in the day got in the car and same again all settings lost and radio reverts to 88.3mhz. Mailed the salesmen who replied saying never heard of the issue … but copied in a service guy who acknowledged there seemed to be an issue on some cars, an update was due from Audi in December and as a dealer there was nothing they could do. Replied saying that was unacceptable having paid almost £50k for the car and that I would be rejecting the car. Was then asked to take the car in for a diagnostic check today which I did , waited two hours for a system reset . Left the dealer , stopped at a garage on the way home , got in the car and all settings lost, just unacceptable. I will now be rejecting the car and asking for full refund. Really disappointing as the car apart from this is fantastic.

Congratulations. Want a job?

Hi the most common cause of this is people grease the backs of the pads most brake pads come with an anti squeal pad on the back of the pad its like a film of rubber which when the pads are first used bonds the pad to the surface of the calliper stopping the pad from moving, therefore if you have greased that surface they move when the pads are released and squeal. Steve.