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Hi Everyone, a quick introduction here. In June I picked up a new A3 TFSI S Line Black Edition in Ascari blue. After a few minor quality issues I am now extremely happy with my purchase. Not going to bore everyone with the minute details but I had to deal with: 1. Loose number plate on the rear (Dealer fitted wrong clips) 2. Wrong puddle lights (no Audi rings) had to go back twice as they fitted exactly the same (incorrect lights) on the first visit 3. MMI software problems (settings not being saved) more on this in a separate post. We think we have solved the problem.

Hi all. yeah, got it sorted it turned out to be the HP fuel pump that was the issue. changed pump.and all was good. i cleaned the tank and fuel lines and new filter, all was good for a few days then the turbo went so I sold it as was due to it needing a few bits done to suspension also.

Hi it could well be the thermostat playing about the flow will be the same because of the bypass system if its only partially opening it may cause steam which vents through the expansion cap on the expansion tank. Steve.

Hi Sachs/LUK are the same company and are the only suppliers to most of the VAG group with the exception of Seat who use Valeo clutches on some models where the engines are SPA units. Steve.

will do! thanks!

Sachs and LUK are fine Mariano, but don’t deviate from these. Input your registration number into Parts in Motion website and you should come up with some competitive prices. Availability of non-Audi DMFs?? Perhaps you could let us know how you get on. Kind regards, Gareth.

Very nice

Hi Lee, nice car and plate - is it V8 or V10?

Hi ATE is good so we have to work back from there provided the spring clip is present the next thing is the plug that joins the the sensor cable to the loom, was this difficult to remove?, I had this recently where the plug was difficult to remove and the pins inside the female part of the plug [main loom] were displaced and corroded, cured this by buying a repair kit on eBay as this is apparently quite a common problem, I priced the upper loom which you can only buy from Audi at over £200, so I opted for the repair kit at £9.99 from a company called Just German Parts on eBay its a doddle to fit and just required soldering to the main loom, word of advice just twist the wires together before soldering to make sure you have the wires the right way round and the light is out. Steve.

Afternoon all, new to the forum and wanted to say hi! Had Audi’s most of my life, my current an A6 C8 Avant TFSIe Black Edition. My last, a A6 C6 Avant TDI LeMans with 250k on it. I only upgraded as I refuse to pay Khan the £250+ to take it off my drive each month other I’d still be in the C6 munching the miles. Have always done my own maintenance although the C8 being new I get a 3yr reprieve. Great to be a member and hopefully I can contribute Jim

Welcome to the forum you'll find the members on here are a friendly and helpful bunch 🙂

Just signed up looking forward to getting involved . my name is Paul. I have a 2013 Q5 3.0 TDI S Line, my son has the 2008 Q5 3.0 TDI Quattro SE. Live in Boston I own a Ross Tech VCDS , just like my golfing all the gear and no idea. but willing to learn. 68 year old and a memory like a sieve 🙂 so be nice to pensioners please 🙂

Welcome to the forum you'll find the members on here are a friendly and helpful bunch 🙂

Even though you disagreed, you still bought it Michael! Mileage and service history? Private or dealer?

Actually, that’s not a bad idea 🤔 But rather than remove the arm and blade (I dont like de wiperer’d look) I might just unplug the connector at the motor 😁

https://www.audiownersclub.com/forums/topic/27113-for-sale- I have a set of memory, Beige Comfort seats from my 2015 A6 Allroad up for grabs, incls front & rear door cards, rear side bolsters, front armrest. The front seats come with adjustable length squab, adjustable seat and backrest bolsters and 4-way lumbar support. These are also wired for rear seat entertainment but the car came without the brackets to fit the displays to the seats, one display is damaged, but the other one came on ok when I tried it. They go with the seats if you want them. please Note, these seats are NOT heated. No damage, burns or any other issues, bar some barely visible minor wear marks on the drivers seat. ive swapped them for a set of heated/ventilated seats, as I missed both functions after a previous A7. collection only sadly from Weston-super-Mare. (M5 J21). £350 but I’m open to reasonable offers as they do take up a bit of space and I’d like it back! a6-c7-biege-‘comfort’-seats-with-door-cards/

Great, thank you I'll try these 😁

As nobody has replied I'm guessing nobody has any idea... For the future if anyone else come accross this. I found a fault code, or a few... p3007 - camshaft position sensor no signal short circuit and a two others related to it. At first I thought it was a broken wire and had a look in the engine bay for an obvious kink. I tied it up with a cable tie and tonight I took the dogs out and its started straight away. got home when it was hot, turned it off and tried to start it... no deal and that fault code. cleared it and left it for two hours. started perfect and no fault code. Pretty sure it is a camshaft sensor getting hot and faulting... bad side, brd engine on a quatro... no I am not paying anyone 300 + quid to replace it... its a !Removed! 15 year old car..going to get all medieval on it and old school fix of running the wires outside the cam cover. The only thing i agree with is using a audi spare part, my next mission.

I have just retro-fitted LED puddle projector lights to the front doors of my A4 B7 – while there are a few things out there already, I thought to add this guide in case it helps anyone wanting to do this. This is probably the other thing to look at as well: https://www.audi-sport.net/xf/threads/retro-fit-warning-puddle-lights-a4-b7-salon-how-to.138473/ *Disclaimer* - undertake all modifications at your own risk – I am not a qualified mechanic or electrician. Once you have figured out which pin to connect these to, I class this as an easy mod that I think looks cool. You can also install a light in the red reflector on the side of the door, and lights in the back doors, but I didn’t bother. This worked for my Audi A4 B7 (2007) S-line Avant. The wiring diagrams I used covered all B6 and B7 so I predict this will work for all of them - I attach these pics as well. Items needed LED projectors Spade connectors for plugging into the puddle light 2x new wired pins to fit a 32 pin connector (4E0972977) Electrical connectors and tape Door card clips Automotive wire suitable for internal lighting Steps 1. purchase the correct puddle/entry projector lights of your choice – ebay has loads. I went for cheap non-genuine ones that have an S-line logo. 2. Check to see if you already have puddle lights installed! If you do just swap them over. Job done. (if the new ones do not work, try reversing the plug). If not, proceed to 3. 3. Next, you need to check the new lights works and see which terminal is the live one – LEDs are polarised – you need to connect the positive to the right terminal for it to work. You will need to get some spade connectors (good old ebay) to plug the lights into: I have an old low juice car battery and so once connected (the cheap ones I had needed the pins bending a little to get the plug in) just (with a pair of gloves for insulation) touch the ends of the wires to the battery terminals – if nothing lights up swap over. This will allow you to determine which is the live side. Make a note of this. 4. Next you need to remove the door cards. See this: https://totaltechnik.com/video-details.php?vid=19. You will break some clips; use ebay to get a bunch of spares. I bought a pack of 20 for £3.50 5. The bottom of the door has a template for the puddle light hole – cut this out. I used a 5mm drill and drilled lots of holes around the outside and then a blade to cut through these and a file to even up. Don’t cut the hole too large as the light just clips into place. 6. Next you need to wire up the puddle light. Here is the wiring diagram for the driver’s side door for a car with puddle entry lights (also attached with better res) If you scrutinise this, you can see that W31 is the one we want to focus on – this is the puddle/entry light. W30 is the red one on the side of the door. The live side is wired to T32c/13 – this is PIN 13 of the 32 pin connector. The same is true for the passenger side – entry lights go to PIN13. This is the grey connector you just unplugged to remove the door card. You need to open this up: cut the cable tie and slide out the pink tab at the end, then the connector can be slid out of the housing. You should see the pin numbers on the white connector 1 and 16 on one side and 17 and 32 on the other. Go to PIN 13 – there should be no terminal in there: you need to put one in. I bought a pre-wired 32 pin connector off ebay (pic) and removed some of these to use – push a fine point down on the raised metal tab on the pin and gently pull the wire – individual connectors should slide out easily. Insert this into PIN 13 on the door card connector: driver’s side (has many more wires due to having many more switches) And passenger side: In both cases the green wire/pin is the new one inserted. You now need to wire up the live side of the LED to the wire you have just added to PIN 13 in the connector. You can solder but I just used simple wire connectors and (see the white thing on the right in the first picture) automotive wire – but any copper core wire the same thickness as the ones already in the door will do. You next need to connect the other wire from the light to an earth. The brown wires – any brown wire – in this door all go to earth and it does not matter which one you spice into. I chose the one that was most accessible – the window regulator on the passenger’s side and the mirror switch on the driver’s: Cut wire and route and tape up as you see fit – I chose to follow the route of the existing wires. Also remember that if you want to change the lights at any point you will need enough slack to get the light out and unplug it. Here the finished driver’s side: 7. Remove and replace any broken door card clips and reconnect the door card (remember to connect the plug from the speaker that goes to the door tweeter and the cable for the door release). 8. Test and enjoy. Hope this might be of some help... driver's wiring diag.pdf passenger door wiring diag.pdf