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Hello Audi Owners, So, I thought I'd put up this post for those who, like me, are having a bit of a nightmare with their Audi A6 C7 gearbox shifting. I've been scouring the web, but couldn't find any decent fixes. Lots of people posted about it, but most just ended up taking their cars to the dealer, and there were no updates after that. I got this car about 6 months ago, and at first, I didn't notice the issue. The issue was that the gear shifting felt pretty bumpy when moving from 1st to 2nd gear, especially when stuck in slow-moving traffic. However, if you put your foot down and accelerate a bit more aggressively, it shifted smoothly. That's the easiest way to put it. So, I decided to get to the bottom of it. I started with a gearbox service, changing the oils in both the gearbox and mechatronic, along with the mechatronic filter. No luck, didn't make a difference. Then I turned my attention to the suspension, swapping out the arms. Nope, that didn't help either. I heard a weird noise coming from the CV joint on one side and decided to change the entire driveshaft. Still, no improvement. I was getting ready to tackle the clutch when I dropped by the local garage, and they suggested taking a look at the dual mass flywheel (DMF) because they heard some noise when starting the car. Finally, after swapping out the DMF, the car shifts like a dream now. I'm not saying this is the silver bullet for all shifting problems, but I hope it helps someone out there identify or relate to their issue. To describe my issue better, the scanner didn't show any errors, the car used to jerk from 1st to 2nd with a loud banging noise from underneath. Also, when downshifting from 3rd to 2nd and from 2nd to 1st, it would make the same noise and jolt. When driving faster, I noticed a slight power drop when shifting into 4th and 6th gear, meaning the car didn't accelerate smoothly through the gears during acceleration. Good luck fixing it if you are having the same problem.

Hi I think the point that Steve was trying to get across was if you buy a refurbed unit with the immobiliser shunt built in its plug in and play, if its a used O.E. unit it will need programming, aside from that if its a refurbed unit and it still wont work there is definitely another problem further down the line, I.E. crank position sensor or cam position sensor. Steve.

Thank you.

Hi why go to ECP there are plenty of offers on eBay which are much cheaper thats where mine all came from and if you do get a new unit please buy a new rubber spindle grommet, they go rock hard and shrink thats where the water gets in. Steve

This has happened to me twice and covered by warranty- it’s a known fault.

It may not start at all. It definitely needs coding. If you don't then you could put the car in safe mode. Even on my old A6 C5 the ECU, injection pump and instrument cluster are all linked to the immobiliser.

I agree with Mark, over heating discs. I had this once in my 2002 A6 after extensive Hugh speed driving on the autobahn where I was having to brake hard at different points when cars would just pull out. Eventually the brakes over heated which caused the vibration through the steering wheel. Once cooled down and back to normal driving it was fine.

Could be warped/overheated discs.

Hi Nikolay Mine is done through the MMI. Should be explained in the handbook. Tony

Oh blinking heck Michael - hope it was super cheap, and you like work. First double check it is the internal type. Pretty sure it is but… Why ECP, particularly since they no longer offer discounts on so called retail prices. Didn’t buy much before, since even with the high discounts, they seldom worked out cheaper than alternative suppliers? If it is internal, then it’s obviously gearbox out, and it would be daft not to replace the other clutch components while it’s out. The only make of clutch I would fit would be LUK. Try inputting your reg. no. into Parts in Motion website - down in Exeter. They are usually competitive. Perhaps you can let us know how you get on Michael. Kind regards, Gareth.