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Apologies for the gripe, but the forum has recently suffered from a spate of what can be termed ‘Post and Run’ new members, who seem to think it’s perfectly acceptable to post a plea for help, and simply not return to view the help given. In a more diluted form, help is offered, but is very rarely acknowledged even via. a simple press of the Like button, leave alone a posted Thank You. The last part of the gripe is that we frequently have to ask for additional information, and this extra detail often never materialises. Please remember, everyone who posts replies do so without payment, but it certainly does cost them in time - in terms of the Moderators and Admin back up - a lot of time. So a special plea to all on here who post needing help:- please be respectful enough to acknowledge any help given, rather than simply accept it as a no-cost, no time of yours, free advice service. It’s wearing thin folks, so if you want to retain this service, please respect and acknowledge its benefits. Thank you all for reading this, and above all, agreeing to adhere to the respect that is needed to be shown. Kind regards, On behalf of the Moderators. Please note:- This request is to all members, not just new ones.

Sorry I can’t be more helpful Andy, but remain positive - there are vast areas of the country not yet subjected to ULEZ so there will be a market for it. I’ve amended the title for you, so members can see it is for sale. Good luck, Gareth.

Thank you garath. And I appreciate your reply. Will give them a go andy

Many thanks for being in touch Andrew. Trying to be helpful yet realistic, as I see it, regrettably there isn’t really anything outstanding about the car - such as low mileage, rare model etc.- so it is likely to only realise a run of the mill price, whatever that is, and as you say, you are seriously hampered by the non-ULEZ compliance. Where to advertise? EBay, Autotrader etc. Price? Start off on EBay with WBAC’s daft valuation, and see where it goes. Kind regards, Gareth.

Welcome Hugh, and thanks for joining. Apologies in advance for the probable negative response, but I think it’s going to be difficult for the (predominantly U.K.) forum to come up with suggestions for you. We have motor factors in the U.K., who supply aftermarket parts at substantially lower prices than the main dealer. Do you have such outlets in Australia, and if so, are they accessible to non-trade individuals? If so, obviously use those. I buy most of my parts through EBay sellers, and I guess you will also have access to those suppliers -? Secondhand parts:- we have car breakers, and have linked on-line searches where you can input your ‘want’ and breakers who have the part, contact you direct. Do you have similar systems there? Perhaps you could come back to us Hugh. Kind regards, Gareth.

So it turns out 90% of the faults were down to a front right wheel speed sensor and outside ambient air sensor, all DTS have now cleared apart from the handbrake malfunction, I get implausible signal terminal 15 , any ideas??

Hi the big end shells are not good the lighter patches are where the coating is worn away when the oil pressure has dropped and they have been in contact with the crank journals, its quite a complex system at the bottom end the journals are always separated from the bearings by a film of oil this negates any bearing/journal contact on initial start, the oil pump pressure is almost instant and from there the bearings/journals are separated by what is known as a hydraulic wedge which keeps the two apart, on very old engines say the 1900s the bearing shells were coated with horse hair this allowed for the very inefficient oil pumps to get up to pressure without damaging the crank journal. Steve.

SAJ. Those big end shells look OK in as far as there no deep scuffs or gouges, but appearances can be deceptive. The only way to be certain is to assemble the bearings and measure the clearances between shells and journals. A product called Plastiguage can do that. You would need to find out the maximum recommended clearance from Audi. https://plastigauge.co.uk/ The uneven wear is because most of the load on the shells is vertical. There is little horizontal load hence the sides don't wear as much as the tops and bottoms. I can not be certain from a couple of photos, but from the evidence you have presented I think it is unlikely the big end bearings are the cause of the low oil pressure. If they were badly worn the engine would be noisy with a distinctive "big end knock", however having gone to all the effort of removing the sump and big end caps it would be worth going that little bit further to measure the clearances, otherwise there will always be that doubt in your mind.