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Showing content with the highest reputation on 12/03/2024 in all areas

  1. You might find that its like the one in my wifes Seat Alhambra. I found it was clogging up alot so got a scope and put it down into the DPF (removed from the car). couldnt see anything so i put a bung in it and poured a load of DPF clean into it, and left it over night. Then i used a DPF Rinse fluid and gave it a proper clean out. (all this was done after a forced purge while on the car) With the scope i was able to see a crack in the DPF Material inside the unit (fairly big crack) which required a replacement DPF (or a DPF Delete)
    1 point
  2. Hi most people have either VCDS or OBDeleven they both do it, Carista, no idea, if you consider I always did my filter change over 270k the way I described I can't see the problem, they do it that way at most garages thats where I learned and never had a problem. Steve.
    1 point
  3. Hello Manu, Firstly, I have removed the Audi dealer name a location you stated, since this is an open forum, and anyone can read it, so you don’t want to leave yourself open to legal challenge. To answer your questions:- The splitting and wear may just be marginal at the moment, so in effect perhaps they don’t need attention now. My recommendation would be get this car independently checked at a trusted local dealer, and follow their advice regarding whether to change at this time. If they do need changing now, then I would renew both lower wishbones as complete units. Have a look at the Parts in Motion (Exeter) website, input your reg. no. and that should come up with some alternative brands for you. My recommendation would be to buy a reputable brand such as Febi or Lemforder, and I certainly would not buy on lowest price. Price to fit? Ask your local garage to quote you for replacing both lower wishbones. Could you please come back to us Manu and let us know how you get on. Kind regards, Gareth.
    1 point
  4. Hello Duncan, Sorry to hear of your problem. The age of engine reconditioners has long since passed, as engines are generally capable of covering high mileages, and usually only meet their demise via. catastrophic failure - as with yours. Those who remain mainly do so to feed the upper end of the classic car movement. In effect, I think your solution has to rest with the salvage outlets , but I do appreciate your concerns in this direction. Kind regards, Gareth.
    1 point
  5. Fair enough. Sorry I can not recommend a specific company. It has been too long since I had a need for a rebuild.
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  6. I will do looks like it's going to be sometime before the garage can do it but I will keep you informed
    1 point
  7. Thanks Marcus, So when you found it was overfilled, that was found by you physically checking the dipstick some 5 months after the car had an oil change service. In effect, it was likely to have been overfilled at that service point, rather than suffering from oil dilution during the last 5 months. Likely - is the operative word, since it’s now not possible to confirm that. For future reference, always check the oil level before start up on the morning after the service was done, to ascertain where the level sits. Re. Replaced oil pressure switch? :- can you please update us on whether that has solved your problem. Kind regards, Gareth.
    1 point
  8. Welcome Marcus, How high was high - on a dip stick, if fitted on yours? When was the oil previously changed? Have you considered changing the oil pressure sensor? Kind regards, Gareth.
    1 point
  9. No no, replace not weld. Looking at a second hand frame I think
    1 point
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