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Thanks for the wrapping idea, due to which I have found an experienced local company. May consider de chroming the grill and having it wrapped in black - will discuss options. Cheers for this idea Steve

Yes, I see. Guess I’ll just have to bite the bullet then. thanks for your help 👍🏼

It didn't come with new seals and fittings so you'd need to buy new. I shamefully used the old ones because I didn't realise it didn't come with them. The foam comes with the radiator you just need to stick it on your self, I just copied the old one like for like. So I'd already had 2 flushes on the system before this to see if it would solve the issues. Obviously it didn't, however the coolant I got out of the pipes at the core was clean! So I'm not worried of any deposits left in. Hope this helps

The circular disc locks are probably the best security but are too cumbersome for us. The problem with the STOPLOCK Steering Wheel Immobiliser was the limited steering wheel thickness it could accommodate. We have subsequently bought the STOPLOCK Pro Elite Steering Wheel Immobiliser which is a slightly different design at the locking part and that fits the TT wheel. Sorted.

RESULT!!! So I finally got round to swapping out the heater core and it's done the job! It took me a total of 2 hrs and I'm not a mechanic! Every garage I took it too either didn't want to do it or said it would be £1500 and 2 days to do it. I'd say give it ago your self, it's fairly straightforward. There's 2 things I'd change if I had to do it again... number 1 don't get drunk the night before 🤢 spent way to much time upside down for that! And 2. Get a flexi drill bit to get in the small spaces.. there's so many screws!!! I'd recommend whilst your there changing your pollen filter.. mine was disgusting! Also disconnect the battery first, for when your unplugging the air bags. Other than that the only additional thing I had to take off was the blower motor on the back of the pollen filter, this gives enough room to slide the core out, in turn of this undo the 2 bolts on the media unit and slide it forward an inch. It just helps with the room

All sorted change the oil sensor did an oil change and everything is fine now

Hi Jessica, I would suggest checking out your MAF s'tensor - when I had an issue with one it did just what you describe - significantly reduction in performance and erratic idling response. I doubt it's the battery coding issue; the stop/start system just check if the battery is capable of delivering the power without causing excessive voltage drop (if it isn't then it could cause other electronic components to hic-up during the startup which you really wouldn't want) and if it senses a problem it just disables the stop/start system.

Hi Cliff thank you for your message I appreciate you taking your time to read. The battery was replaced a couple of years back I believe, it was done at a Halfords auto centre and since they fitted it the start stop function never worked after that and they said they don’t do that there, I was annoyed at the time as wish they had mentioned this before we went ahead with it there and after that I just got used to it and didn’t bother getting it sorted, in hindsight should have done so. This problem with the engine cutting off has only been a recent problem so I’m not sure it could be to do with that could it?

I get where your coming from as I've got the same issue but with my engine. Been a nightmare. As long as it's the same gearbox type so not based off code if that makes sense (like the same engine has different engine codes) it will physically fit. But it's the coding and the module that might be the problem you choose a different gearbox code. Plus let's not forget gear rations could be slightly different. I can appreciate it's 3x the price, but if you fit a gearbox that's a different code and then the gearbox module needs recoding or replacing, it it doesn't work then it's just wasted money if you see what I mean.