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I will as soon as I have any news

Hi everyone, Just joined the forum and thought I’d introduce myself. I’m Brett, a roofer by trade, but when I’m not up on roofs, I’m all about cars and motorcycles. I’ve always been into classic cars, off-roading, and mods—it’s kind of my thing. Recently, I picked up a 2004 Audi A3 3.2L for my wife since she wanted something with a bit of punch. It’s my first Audi, so I’m still learning the ropes. I’ve already put some work into it—new discs, calipers, pads, and some exhaust upgrades—but there’s plenty more to do to get it up to the standard I’m aiming for. Looking forward to chatting with you all and picking up some tips along the way! Cheers, Brett

Hi Spartacus, thanks for the reply. Yes car was bought audi approved in June, and is going in for a service and gearbox service the start of Jan. Great driving car. But yes the flaking on the wheel arch is what really got my attention. So will hopefully get it looked at then.

Thanks mate. Yeah, we were at it all day today. Had the full wiring loom cut open but couldnt find the problem. We ran a wire across the starter wiring and bypassed it for now. Car still starts on a button for now but still flags up the "stop start fault". The auto spark is off till after new year so had to do something to get it mobile again. Car was previously a taxi so the harness has been hacked in places. Im guessing broken wire in harness as you stated may be my issue as its in same area that my last multiple fault issue was and it was a loom broken in 4 different places. Thanks for the help. John

80Nm + 90 degrees for the bearing and carrier triple square bolts. Personally only fit a quality bearing, such as F.A.G. or similar, that will be OE. Make sure the hub face is spotless before torquing up the new bearing and carrier flange. There will be aluminium oxide when the old one is removed, but a wire brush assembly on a drill is perfect. For the driveshaft bolt, it’s 200Nm plus 180 degrees. Importantly, the axle cannot be on the weight of the vehicle. More details here.

While coding a battery to the car may not be a good description, it is the term used by those I have met in the trade. I have no idea how it is done but there is no doubt that the car's software needs to be informed of the batteries capacity, type, and chemistry for the charging circuitry to operate correctly. Long gone are the days of dynamos charging lead-acid batteries to any value from 12 volts to 15 volts with no impact on the battery's performance.

Thanks Stevey, I had an auto spark fix my older problems with the multiple faults around the off side ABS/wheelspeed sensor which he found to be 5 breaks in the actual loom along the firewall/bulk head up around the DPF etc. Im wondering is this same issue with the wiring from starter up in same direction. Thanks John

Hi it could be a damaged wire on the plug for the clutch position sensor, somewhere on here is an old post for an A4 which runs the same system the guy ended up Buying an IDOS system [expensive] but it does electrical test and trace in the wiring loom, other than that I can only suggest a good auto electrician, all this is based on your wiring bypass of the clutch position sensor. Steve.

Hi Thanks gor replying. I do usually drive with my aircon running. I have a favourite mechanic I use. I will take it to him in the new year and see what he thinks. I no longer suspect the fans as much as the thermostat.