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Whether it is worthwhile is a judgement only you can make, depending on how attached you are to the car. In your place I would get the cost of repair and compare it to how much you are willing to pay for a different car.

Car is coming up for 14 years old, so financially it’s probably worth more to you than it’s actually worth. If you traded in, it’s not likely to be a retail car, and would probably go to auction. The advisories are related to multi link suspension arm or bushes. If you’re replacing one on one side side, then it makes sense to do the other side too. This includes front and rear arms. Audi use Lemforder or Meyle HD, anything else will wear prematurely in my opinion. Decent arms can be anywhere from £50-£150 each plus fitting. In addition you’ll need a tracking check, say £80-£100. Audi are known for subframe issues. The subframe is powder coated, so road dirt, salt and water start to corrode on damaged surfaces. You can’t fully sort it unless you remove the subframe and get it powder coated, that’s unrealistic. What you can do, is get the underside of the car jet washed, and dried, wire brush bad areas, potentially apply rust converter then apply wax-oil or Lanoguard. That should keep corrosion at bay for another 2-3 years before you need to reapply. Expect to pay £300-400.

I've done 120K in mine and they're the original discs so can't complain really. I asked the mechanic to clean the hubs anyway after what was said here. My guy put the car on a rolling road so he could also feel the shaking. My discs and pads came to £350 plus VAT for reference.

Hi, I would like to dispel the myth that coding a battery is only for stop start equipped vehicles, with the advent of smart charging systems circa 2000 the coding/registering of batteries is required to inform the ECU that a new unit is fitted therefore the charging parameters have to change from maximum charge most of the time for a failing unit to a more fluid regime I.E.the alternator will only step up its charging to near maximum to maintain the batteries prescribed optimum voltage when using lights, heated screen, higher levels of blower use during the summer/winter, now throw in a battery that has not the right amp hour requirements even if coded the alternator has to work twice as hard to maintain the optimum voltage for that unit thus accelerating the alternator wear factor, when you consider old charging systems had to use a regulator to dissipate over voltage conditions by running the excess charge to ground, the new systems are smart insomuch as this never occurs and the alternator ceases to charge via the free wheeling clutch on the alternator until more voltage is required, hence the alternators generally speaking last longer. Steve.

Thanks Emily, Not too sure whether 2021 or 2018 has much bearing over it - crxp is crxp whatever its age. This is a very difficult one to confidently advise on, but having said that, you have what appears to be an incorrect spec. low grade battery, with no evidence that it was ever coded to the car when replaced. You now have a dodgy alternator ( as a result?) and that may (in caps) be affecting the correct operation of many of your electrical systems. On the one hand, you may find fitting a branded new battery fitted to the car and getting it coded, along with rechecking the alternator consistent output, and all will be well - but no guarantee that it will. I will however be more confident in claiming that if you don’t to that, you are more likely not to fix it if you get anything else checked and worked on. Kind regards, Gareth.

A dying battery can indeed cause all the symptoms you describe. Get it tested if you want confirmation, but in your place I would not hesitate to replace an eight year old battery. Don't forget to get it coded to the car. PS The volt meter readings tell you nothing about the internal condition of the battery.

Was looking to buy one with the start/stop but guessing from your comment I'm better avoiding it 😁?

Any answer for Stephen, Richard?

Video doesn’t work for me Brett. Colour of the smoke? Does it use any coolant or oil?

Yes...was so shiny when I picked it up and now needs a clean again haha. This look of my car is very appealing and was a strong reason for purchasing. I believe if you don't look back at you car after walking away, it isn't the right car.

I'd be having the battery tested if it was me. I've heard loads of complaints about Lion batteries, I've always bought my batteries online from Tayna.

I haven’t removed the ground point but have looked at it and it seems pretty sound - but it’s worth another look noting the coding issue. Thanks guys.

Apologies for the gripe, but the forum has recently suffered from a spate of what can be termed ‘Post and Run’ new members, who seem to think it’s perfectly acceptable to post a plea for help, and simply not return to view the help given. In a more diluted form, help is offered, but is very rarely acknowledged even via. a simple press of the Like button, leave alone a posted Thank You. The last part of the gripe is that we frequently have to ask for additional information, and this extra detail often never materialises. Please remember, everyone who posts replies do so without payment, but it certainly does cost them in time - in terms of the Moderators and Admin back up - a lot of time. So a special plea to all on here who post needing help:- please be respectful enough to acknowledge any help given, rather than simply accept it as a no-cost, no time of yours, free advice service. It’s wearing thin folks, so if you want to retain this service, please respect and acknowledge its benefits. Thank you all for reading this, and above all, agreeing to adhere to the respect that is needed to be shown. Kind regards, On behalf of the Moderators. Please note:- This request is to all members, not just new ones.