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Apologies for the gripe, but the forum has recently suffered from a spate of what can be termed ‘Post and Run’ new members, who seem to think it’s perfectly acceptable to post a plea for help, and simply not return to view the help given. In a more diluted form, help is offered, but is very rarely acknowledged even via. a simple press of the Like button, leave alone a posted Thank You. The last part of the gripe is that we frequently have to ask for additional information, and this extra detail often never materialises. Please remember, everyone who posts replies do so without payment, but it certainly does cost them in time - in terms of the Moderators and Admin back up - a lot of time. So a special plea to all on here who post needing help:- please be respectful enough to acknowledge any help given, rather than simply accept it as a no-cost, no time of yours, free advice service. It’s wearing thin folks, so if you want to retain this service, please respect and acknowledge its benefits. Thank you all for reading this, and above all, agreeing to adhere to the respect that is needed to be shown. Kind regards, On behalf of the Moderators. Please note:- This request is to all members, not just new ones.

Thanks for Everyone who’s posted on this topic, Same issue apart from my car is used every day. I ended up buying one from an Audi dealer £100. As I had a week of long journeys, poss could have risked it and waiting for the e-bay delivery but I’ll never know. Anyway in my head I’ve still saved £150 fitting it myself instead of thinking of the £80 difference of the same part. I still ordered one from eBay and now I’ve a cheap spare. Thanks again for the advise I can’t imagine there are too many sensors on a modern car you can get to so easily 😊😊👍

Whether it is worthwhile is a judgement only you can make, depending on how attached you are to the car. In your place I would get the cost of repair and compare it to how much you are willing to pay for a different car.

When I got my Q5, I was painfully aware of just how scratched and dented the centre trim was. Decided it was finally time to rip out the whole centre console so I could remove the offending trim. Replacing with a standard trim would just end up the same way, the carbon replacements are either too expensive or poor fitting so instead I used some alloy wheel repair filler to fill in all the dents and scratches. After a few hours to cure I got on with the boring job of sanding it down. Got some carbon fibre wrap and set to work. Took me forever to get to this stage but as it was my first attempt at wrapping I expected as much. Carefully put everything back together and here is the end result. Think it's turned out rather nicely 😎

Hi There, thank you for your reply , I took the car to the paint shop and the people have this device that scans the paint you are trying to match , and brings up the paint code , so if anyone is needing the paint code for Audi Matt Grey it’s LMi7, thanks again for the help much appreciated .

Hi,new here but 4 years a member of the A2OC.As you can see,I have a 1.4 petrol SE and recently acquired the red 1.6 fsi SE,currently Sorn-ed.Its been stood a while,only just got it on and off the trailer!Will be pestering people for advice on it soon,lol.

My pleasure. If it ain't broke, don't fix it (had to learn that the hard way). A service regen isn't risk free as there's been occasional stories of service regens melting the DPF. If the car is not causing issues, drive happily and worry free; let the ECU worry about the active regens as it should. Long distance driving will allow for passive regen.

2004 Audi A4 1.9 TDI Sport (B6) - £1500 Registered: May 2004 Previous Owners: 4 Current Owner: Since May 2013. Transmission: 6 Speed Manual Fuel: Diesel Colour: Metallic Blue Interior: Grey Leather/Suede. Mileage: 155’664 BHP: 130 MOT: 06/12/2025 Service History: Full service carried out by specialist 05/12/2024 (serviced yearly by Audi dealership or specialist). Timing Belt changed 08/12/2023. Tax: £240 Location: Wolverhampton/Birmingham Additional Details: Selling as will be getting a company car soon, still looks and drives great for its age, does an 80-mile round trip going down the motorway every few weeks with no problems. Comes with factory fitted 18” alloys (inc. spare), 2 keys, manuals, original and new service book, HPI clear and all MOT certificates and invoices since 2013, with full service carried every year since then (plus oil and filter changes in between at approx. 3000 miles during 2013 and 2018 when driven 10K+ miles a year). One minor incident impacted the front passenger side door, chose to replace door through insurance on 17/10/2016. Paintwork generally in good condition, some bubbling and a couple of spots of rust, no leaks or mechanical problems, and all electrics working, but aircon needs recharging and some minor issues as expected for a 21-year-old car as follows: Crack on the windscreen (has passed MOT’s) Rip on the driver’s seat Glovebox stuck (can open via the side) Airbag light stays on MOT advice notes: Nearside Front Tyre worn close to legal limit/worn on edge Front Sub-frame corroded but not seriously weakened Front Anti-roll bar linkage pin or bush worn but not resulting in excessive movement Rear Registration plate deteriorated but not likely to be misread Rear Sub-frame corroded but not seriously weakened Price reflects the above, but as those in the know can verify, this 1.9 TDI engine is very economical and an absolute workhorse, so still has plenty of life left in it!

Fit whatever capacity is recommended by the manufacturer, but please ensure you install a good quality battery. Varta and Exide are two names that come to mind, though there are others whose names escape me. Avoid like the plague any cheapie from the internet or the likes of KwikFit.

Car is coming up for 14 years old, so financially it’s probably worth more to you than it’s actually worth. If you traded in, it’s not likely to be a retail car, and would probably go to auction. The advisories are related to multi link suspension arm or bushes. If you’re replacing one on one side side, then it makes sense to do the other side too. This includes front and rear arms. Audi use Lemforder or Meyle HD, anything else will wear prematurely in my opinion. Decent arms can be anywhere from £50-£150 each plus fitting. In addition you’ll need a tracking check, say £80-£100. Audi are known for subframe issues. The subframe is powder coated, so road dirt, salt and water start to corrode on damaged surfaces. You can’t fully sort it unless you remove the subframe and get it powder coated, that’s unrealistic. What you can do, is get the underside of the car jet washed, and dried, wire brush bad areas, potentially apply rust converter then apply wax-oil or Lanoguard. That should keep corrosion at bay for another 2-3 years before you need to reapply. Expect to pay £300-400.

A dying battery can indeed cause all the symptoms you describe. Get it tested if you want confirmation, but in your place I would not hesitate to replace an eight year old battery. Don't forget to get it coded to the car. PS The volt meter readings tell you nothing about the internal condition of the battery.

Hi either 27mm or 32mm unless they changed the sizes again, the correct size is stamped on the top of the housing. Steve.

Morning all, thanks for letting me in !

Welcome Edd, and thanks for joining. There is a lot of conjecture about ‘mayo’ and jumping to the conclusion that it is a definite indication of head gasket failure. I would say in your case that it is certainly due to/ aggravated by unacceptably short runs, and the fact that the engine doesn’t reach operating temperature - even if the thermostat was serviceable - which it isn’t! The fact is Edd, this engine is having a hammering, and is likely to suffer from the equivalent wear that would be encountered on a car operated on motorways and having done say x10 times the mileage of yours. Before going any further let’s start with an important question:- how often is the oil changed and when was it last changed? Kind regards, Gareth.

Massive thanks to Richard aka Spartacus 68 for recommending Tomas at VAG Technic who is very familiar with this problem and can fix it 🙂

Hi OE, Gates, Dayco, Continental, if you dont change the water pump you will live to regret that choice, most kits worth the money come with the lot, belt ,idler pulley, tensioner, water pump and new bolts. Steve.

Hello, Why on earth Autodoc and spurious brands?? Whatever you do, do not buy on price for this critical application - always buy quality parts at best prices. I’ve always stuck with Gates, who were one of the OE suppliers to VAG. I don’t have any connection with this company, but try entering your reg. no. into Parts in Motion ( Exeter ) website and see what their prices are. When you have done that, look on EBay for their listings for the chosen part - often a little cheaper via. this route. Unlike Autodoc, they do free delivery. Always renew the auxiliary belt at the same time. 135k miles an cambelt never? renewed? Glad you got away with that one! Please let us know what prices you come up with. As has been said, worth checking parts price at Audi for comparison. Kind regards, Gareth. p.s. Where is Rogers?

You’re asking a generic question. There are multiple engine variants on 1.4TFSI platform. If your mates are doing it, get OE, it’s probably less than you think. Failing that a recognised and respected timing belt manufacturer, such as Gates, Continental, etc. This is a critical component, don’t cut corners due to cost.

That it leaks more when the engine is running suggests it is the shaft seal. Speculating further, is it possible the crankcase ventilation is not working properly? I am wondering if excess pressure in the crankcase is actively blowing oil out.

Hello John, I do feel for you. In your situation, I think it would be a ‘good investment’ to spend an hour’s labour with a trusted local garage, with a view to better sourcing the site/s of the leak. Kind regards, Gareth.

The car was sold to someone else so my decision was made for me. Maybe it was meant to be. Still, I’m interested in a 2.0TFSI Quattro Avant so the search continues. I’ll have a look on here, see if there’s anything for sale. Thanks everyone for your advice

Dealer or private sale Will? If the latter, my angle on any private sale is don’t get interested in purchasing any vehicle from anyone, unless it has a V5 registered to the owner at the address you are viewing it at. Length of ownership would also be important to me. It could end in tears. Kind regards, Gareth.

Well she went for her m.o.t and a pass

Further to my above post 3 weeks ago, my A6 has reluctantly now been traded in with Audi and I have a replacement car. A shame because I really like the A6 (my 3rd) but could not tolerate the inherent unreliability and likely forthcoming big bills. I have spent time googling Audi + Vitesco, then making use of google translate and reading the various posts on the German websites and forums. (For those not aware, Vitesco appears to be the manufacturer of 48V equipment for these models including the notorious BSG or RSG in German - RiemenStarterGenerator). Clearly liability and fault for all these problems is a major discussion between the two companies which seems far from resolution according to the reports and will be hugely expensive however the legal process pans out. One piece of perhaps relevant information from the motor-talk.de forums suggests that the early "potentially faulty" BSGs had a serial number commencing in 4N0, whereas the SN of the more recent "good" BSGs commence with 4N1. So to possibly answer my own question, I reckon the more recent models with the 48V system may well have the issue fully sorted, which is a glimmer of good news for those such as me who like the concept of the system, despite the poor execution of it. Perhaps surprisingly, I remain a fan of Audi cars as a brand, though the company's poor handling and lack of ownership of the whole BSG issue is simply dreadful. Nonetheless, to anyone buying a new or used Audi with the 48V MHEV system, a long extended warranty would be a very good investment I reckon.

Changed The CCM this afternoon and reprogrammed both key fobs... winner winner chicken dinner! Feeling quite pleased with myself. I'd already sorted the water ingress so that should be fine now, the old CCM definitely didn't look happy sat in it's puddle. Two more jobs to take care of, broken wires in the passenger A pillar loom, and driver's window regulator. Off work until Sunday so I'm hoping for a couple of dry days.

Not done it yet as the A6 is still off the road but I'm planning this once the rebuild starts.

OMG - yes, looks like amazon sent the wrong one but probably my fault!! Thanks for spotting. I'll get the right one ordered! Thanks a lot for your help.

Hi sorry the filter you are showing is an OIL FILTER NOT A FUEL filter.

Hey all sorry for the "hit and run" post but I don't actually own the car anymore so have little use for the forum except to offer an item for sale. I have a detachable tow bar and rear crash bar which was removed from the car when it was exported to Spain (the Spanish wouldn't accept the car with it due to not meeting their paperwork requirements. It was fitted to a 2011 A4 B8 saloon but I'm led to believe it would fit the estate also. Is it of any use to anyone?

Hi, I would like to dispel the myth that coding a battery is only for stop start equipped vehicles, with the advent of smart charging systems circa 2000 the coding/registering of batteries is required to inform the ECU that a new unit is fitted therefore the charging parameters have to change from maximum charge most of the time for a failing unit to a more fluid regime I.E.the alternator will only step up its charging to near maximum to maintain the batteries prescribed optimum voltage when using lights, heated screen, higher levels of blower use during the summer/winter, now throw in a battery that has not the right amp hour requirements even if coded the alternator has to work twice as hard to maintain the optimum voltage for that unit thus accelerating the alternator wear factor, when you consider old charging systems had to use a regulator to dissipate over voltage conditions by running the excess charge to ground, the new systems are smart insomuch as this never occurs and the alternator ceases to charge via the free wheeling clutch on the alternator until more voltage is required, hence the alternators generally speaking last longer. Steve.

Yes...was so shiny when I picked it up and now needs a clean again haha. This look of my car is very appealing and was a strong reason for purchasing. I believe if you don't look back at you car after walking away, it isn't the right car.

There are 3 actuators that control the air flow. They have sensors in them which tells the control module their position. The sounds you are hearing are the actuators cycling and trying to sence their position which they cant. So they remain open and allow the hot air to come in. VCDSS would tell you which one is at fault, in any ways they have to be replaced. Items 4, 6 or 7 To the begining Air-conditioning system with electronic regulation for Audi A4/Avant(A4) 2002 [EUROPA] № part number description remark unit model Air-conditioning system with electronic regulation 1 8E1 820 021 E Fan lhd 1 1 8E2 820 021 E Fan rhd 1 2 8E1 820 511 F actuator motor for air flow flap lhd light blue V71 1 3 8E1 820 511 D positioning motor for recirculated air operation lhd blue V 113 1 3 8E2 820 511 D positioning motor for recirculated air operation rhd blue V 113 1 4 8E1 820 511 B Servomotor for defroster flap lhd green V 107 1 4 8E2 820 511 B Servomotor for defroster flap rhd green V 107 1 5 8E1 820 511 G control motor for temperature regulating flap left lhd red V 158 1 5 8E2 820 511 E control motor for temperature regulating flap right rhd yellow V 159 1 6 8E1 820 511 K actuator motor, footwell flap foot well flap lhd white V 70 1 6 8E2 820 511 H actuator motor, footwell flap foot well flap rhd black V 70 1 7 8E1 820 511 H control motor for temperature regulating flap right lhd violet V 159 1 7 8E2 820 511 F control motor for temperature regulating flap left rhd brown V 158 1 8 8E1 820 353 B Air distribution housing lhd 1 8 8E2 820 353 B Air distribution housing rhd 1 9 8E2 820 024 Evaporator housing rhd 1 9 8E1 820 024 Evaporator housing lhd 1 10 8E1 820 153 Intake duct lhd 1 10 8E2 820 153 Intake duct rhd 1 11 8E1 819 151 Footwell vent lhd 1 11 8E2 819 151 Footwell vent rhd 1 15 8E1 820 103 evaporator F >> 8E-3-285 000* lhd 1 15 8E1 820 103 A evaporator F 8E-3-285 001>>* lhd 1 15 8E2 820 103 evaporator F >> 8E-3-285 000* rhd 1 15 8E2 820 103 A evaporator F 8E-3-285 001>>* rhd 1 16 8E1 820 031 heat exchanger also use: lhd 8E0 898 380 1, 1 16 8E2 820 031 heat exchanger also use: rhd 8E0 898 380 1, 1 17 4B1 819 011 Auxiliary heater for air conditioner LLKG Z35 1 17 4B2 819 011 Auxiliary heater for air conditioner RLKG Z35 1 20 8E0 898 380 Gasket set 1 21 8E1 898 350 1 set: pipes for heat exchanger also use: lhd 8E0 898 380 1, , 1 21 8E2 898 350 1 set: pipes for heat exchanger also use: rhd 8E0 898 380 1, , 1 23 8E0 820 992 A Bungs 1 24 8E1 816 311 air hose for models with cool box lhd 1 24 8E2 816 311 air hose for models with cool box rhd 1 - 8E0 820 701 Vent for vehicles with air condit. Glove compartment 1 8E0 820 701 4 PK soul (black) 25 1K0 907 543 A Temperature sensor G 263 1 26 N10 424 101 hexagon head panel screw 4X16 X 28 4B0 820 539 Temperature sensor G 262 1 29 4B0 820 539 Temperature sensor G 261 1 30 8E1 260 113 A water drain pipe lhd 1 30 8E2 260 113 A water drain pipe rhd 1 34 8E0 260 155 drain tube 1 37 8E1 819 079 Retaining bar lhd 1 37 8E2 819 079 Retaining bar rhd 1 38 N01 028 73 Hexagon bolt M6X16 4 39 N90 457 003 hexagon head bolt (combi) M6POWX15, 5-S1 1 40 8E0 820 539 Temperature sensor evaporator G89 1 41 Discont. / replace: 8E1 898 400 8E2 898 400 1, 1 lhd rhd 42 Discont. / replace: 8E1 898 400 8E2 898 400 1, 1 lhd rhd 43 Discont. / replace: 8E1 898 400 8E2 898 400 1, 1 lhd rhd 44 8E1 898 400 1 set attachment parts for heat exchanger lhd 1 44 8E2 898 400 1 set attachment parts for heat exchanger rhd 1 45 N10 095 101 Clamp 8X17 1 47 4B1 819 164 Cover for models without auxiliary heater lhd 1 47 4B2 819 164 Cover for models without auxiliary heater RLKG 1 - 8E0 819 425 B Cover cap 1 - 8E1 898 001 B 1 set: levers for air distribution housing lhd 1 - 8E2 898 001 B 1 set: levers for air distribution housing rhd 1 - 8E0 898 001 1 set: levers for air distribution housing Defroster flap F >> 8E-4-280 000* 1 - 8E0 898 001 A 1 set: levers for air distribution housing Defroster flap F 8E-4-280 001>>* 1

Lion battery- bless you. As I’ve said many times before, this brand would be firmly at the bottom of my desirability list. ‘Mixed reviews’ is being too kind. Worth bearing in mind that Euro Car Parts are believed to have re-branded them - can’t remember the new brand name, but something starting with S ? as per their exclusive Starline. Kind regards, Gareth.

That's exactly what Gareth, and now I, are getting at. A simple voltage reading at minimal load will not reveal defects within the battery. That is why battery testers often use deep discharge equipment which simulate the 200 or more amps drawn by the starter motor. That is not to say your battery is definitely defective, but until you prove otherwise I would regard it as suspect, because failing batteries are often the cause of unexpected electronic problems and errant error codes.

I realise that. I was agreeing with Steve Q's suggestion that the heater matrix might be blocked, and commenting on the likely cost of renewing it. The water pump and cam belt would never have cured lack of heat in the cabin, though they may well have been necessary for other reasons. Count yourself lucky the job was so cheap at only £500; it would have been half as much again at most places.

It appears that this is a drain hole through the block from the top near the turbo / oil cooler that drains down to the bottom of the block but doesn't actually enter the engine - assume it's to stop a build up of water / moisture on the top of the block. The extreme heat from the turbo dries out the seals on the oil cooler, causing the leak. The oil then flows through this drain channel and out at the bottom. It therefore appears to be leaking from this hole, when in fact it's leaking from the oil cooler at the top of the engine.

Thanks Edd, Does the car lose any coolant? If not, then the emulsion cannot be arising from any head gasket issue, and is probably serious condensation due to short runs and a failed thermostat. If it were mine:- Get the thermostat renewed ASAP ( don’t know why you would suspect the water pump because the car doesn’t get up to temperature). Treat the car to an engine oil flush, new filter and fresh engine oil - I use VAG’s Quantum Longlife 3 , but change it every year on an average usage of c7K miles). Get the car read for fault codes. Please let us know how you get on. Kind regards, Gareth.

I have no idea what the hole is for, but it does appear to have a plug in it. Is that plug metal or rubber? Does it have a hex top or slot to allow it to be screwed in? Whatever the reason for its existence there must be a way to seal it that does not involve another engine.

So...mystery solved! Turns out when you watch a VW Sharan video to find a part on an Audi A6...not everything is in quite the same place 😂! I was looking about 2ft too far forward! The NOX sensor 2 for the A6 Allroad is quite far back from the catalytic converter and where the pipes become one again (so not sure why it lists it by bank on the fault code, although maybe it has to list a bank by default 🤷‍♂️). The sensor electronics plate is under the rear most underbody panel, on left of the car (UK passenger side), which comes off with 4 Torx screws. I'm yet to actually try to get the sensor out of the exhaust but did manage to take the plate off to confirm the part number. Photos below!

Hi thank you for the quick responses I'll go and check the sites and get some ordered enjoy the rest of your weekend

Here is a link straight to the Q5 option: https://www.puddlelights.co.uk/product/audi-q5-puddle-lights/ Edit: it looks like they used a potato to take the picture but they're actually pretty crisp in appearance irl.

Hello Peter, Can your friend go back to the seller on the off chance they still have that detailed history somewhere? If you don’t ask, you don’t know! It’s worth going to see your nearest Audi dealer ( armed with your V5) and enquire whether there is any recent computerised service history on the Audi database. If both of these draw blanks, then I guess you just have to do a comprehensive service on it now, and continue to record its history under your ownership. Please let us know how you get on Peter. Kind regards, Gareth.

Bumper off, antenna fitted and bumper back on I’d say 1.5hrs max, calibration 30mins. What Audi charge I could only guess

Yes, the car has blind spot assist, Lucky enough I’m covered for this repair under warranty, I guess that would be an expensive fix otherwise🤦‍♂️

Congratulations! Now you can get out and enjoy it 🙂

Thanks mate..... Loving it.... Love the racket it's capable of making 😂 2018,full Audi history,, 44k on clock

Hello Gary, So the filler pump nozzle cuts out (consistently?) when trying to put fuel into the tank - correct? Does it do this even when you try to trickle the fuel in by barely opening the nozzle lever? If these are the issues you are getting, it could be a faulty/collapsed beather pipe, or perhaps the filler flap isn’t opening sufficiently when you insert the nozzle. Kind regards, Gareth.

I complained and just keep going and they offered the new tyres as replacement

Ideally you need to get the car scanned with VCDS. There might be other codes logged that can help pinpoint what’s going on. My experience of turbos, 2012 A4 Allroad with under 70k miles went into limp mode. Ordinarily I would have stripped it down myself, but pointless cleaning, given labour to get to it. The exhaust manifold nuts can be a sod without induction heater. In addition the oil feed pipe to it needs to be replaced as the union nut rarely goes back on properly, and this is usually down the back of the engine. Bypass this and you risk an oil leak. There’s also an actuator on there. This is normally set up with the turbo on the bench. It can be tested with a vacuum. Any cleaners likely to be short lived. When I stripped the turbo down on mine it had carbon build up. Also one of the vanes on the turbine was bent. Normal to do oil and filter change as a matter of course when fitting. Check out Turbo-diesel.co.uk. They will have Garrett turbos, BorgWarner, new in a box, or you could opt for refurbished. Main dealer will use exactly the same part but boxed Audi and daft price. You’ll also need exhaust gasket kit.

This is the fourth time you have posted the same message without any explanation, which to me looks like spam. Either you post your solution on the forum or I will ban you.