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Apologies for the gripe, but the forum has recently suffered from a spate of what can be termed ‘Post and Run’ new members, who seem to think it’s perfectly acceptable to post a plea for help, and simply not return to view the help given. In a more diluted form, help is offered, but is very rarely acknowledged even via. a simple press of the Like button, leave alone a posted Thank You. The last part of the gripe is that we frequently have to ask for additional information, and this extra detail often never materialises. Please remember, everyone who posts replies do so without payment, but it certainly does cost them in time - in terms of the Moderators and Admin back up - a lot of time. So a special plea to all on here who post needing help:- please be respectful enough to acknowledge any help given, rather than simply accept it as a no-cost, no time of yours, free advice service. It’s wearing thin folks, so if you want to retain this service, please respect and acknowledge its benefits. Thank you all for reading this, and above all, agreeing to adhere to the respect that is needed to be shown. Kind regards, On behalf of the Moderators. Please note:- This request is to all members, not just new ones.

New Members - please read before posting ! Be civil Don’t post anything that a reasonable person would consider offensive, abusive, or hate speech. Avoid confrontational responses to post content that may be different to your own personal beliefs. Everyone has their own opinion on different matters and this provides for diversity, so please avoid an argument. Be polite It doesn't cost anything to have manners and would be appreciated by the community if you included 'please and thank you' as required in your posts. Keep it clean Don’t post anything obscene or sexually explicit. Respect each other Don’t harass or troll anyone, impersonate people, or expose their private information. Be respectful to Moderating Staff and other members at all times. No politics or religion Nothing starts a fight faster than politics or religion, so we don't allow those discussions. Keep personal information private All posts in the forums are easily found via search engines, so unless you're willing to expose your information to the world, please do not post telephone numbers, e-mail addresses etc in your posts. Have a little patience We are a club made up of members who have to work days or nights so can’t always reply straight away, someone will get back to you as soon as they can, so please be bear with us. Thread titles Be accurate with your topic by giving a brief sentence of the problem, hint or tip you would like to get across to other members. These are not concrete terms with precise definitions — avoid even the appearance of any of these things. If you’re unsure, ask yourself whether you'd go on TV and publicly say it on camera. This is a public forum, and search engines index these discussions. Keep the language, links, and images safe for family and friends. Follow Up Please find the time to follow up your post with a conclusion (such as; that worked, tried that but didn't work, etc) so contributing members can see whether their advice and suggestions worked in this instance. You may receive an email asking you to add a conclusion to your post, please find the time to return to your post and marked it as solved.

Thanks for letting me join. Traveled 10 hours to get this beauty to take it back up north to Scotland a week ago. Needs a few things fixed before next summer. My first classic car.

Hi All, As most don't follow up on posts & its been a few months since swapping my front discs, I thought I'd do the right thing & give an honest update. The relatively cheap Audura discs & pads from Europarts, that I fitted, are very performing very well with absolutely no issues, no brake judder & they stop the car exactly as they should. I would recommend this particular brand especially if one is on a budget.

Thanks for Everyone who’s posted on this topic, Same issue apart from my car is used every day. I ended up buying one from an Audi dealer £100. As I had a week of long journeys, poss could have risked it and waiting for the e-bay delivery but I’ll never know. Anyway in my head I’ve still saved £150 fitting it myself instead of thinking of the £80 difference of the same part. I still ordered one from eBay and now I’ve a cheap spare. Thanks again for the advise I can’t imagine there are too many sensors on a modern car you can get to so easily 😊😊👍

Hi all. Just bought my first A5 from an A6. Here's my pic of 18 plate 2.0 TFSI.

From the admin team we would like to wish a Happy New Year to all our members 🎉✨🎊 Thank you for your ongoing support and contributions over the last year, it's greatly appreciated 😊 May your 2025 be prosperous happy and healthy!!

It’s that time of year again where we think of friends we may not meet during the year, but who we are in contact with by other modern methods that we can use to pass on good wishes. Our family would like to wish everyone on here a very Merry Christmas and a peaceful New Year. I use the word peaceful since regrettably the world does seem to be in some turmoil, but we look forward to the time when harmony prevails. I would also like to thank all those members who take the time to try to help others when they need it. Be kind and considerate. Best wishes to you all, Gareth.

Welcome Lisa and thanks for joining. First things first - can we pass on our condolences for your Dad’s passing. Not an easy time - they only give us one, so always bad news. A couple or so pointers to hopefully help with your query:- Main dealers will not be interested in the car (as good as it may be), since in general, they do not retail vehicles over 5 years old. If they are going to buy it off you, it will be at a price low enough to resell it into their trade contacts at a profit, so really no point in perusing that route. Ways forward:- Enter the details into Parker’s Guide, and you will come up with a ball park valuation for an average mileage car sold privately. If you want a ‘mileage adjusted’ quote, then I believe you have to pay. Worth doing that?? Search EBay and Autotrader for similar year examples, building up a picture of a number of valuations, some of which might be for lower mileage examples. It is worth noting that (unless you are very lucky) you are unlikely to sell the car at prices that dealers are asking, since yours will not be sold with any warranty. Apologies for being pessimistic, but you are trying to sell very much at the low demand end of the year., and the car will effectively be a year older by the end of the month. Another disposal route could be via. the Motorway advertising route, or similar. I don’t have any experience of this, but you could investigate. On a brighter note, such low mileage cars normally find homes among family and friends, and as such tend not to spread out to the wider market. Anyway Lisa, please come back to us if you think we can help further, or if you wish to advertise it on here. Many thanks and kind regards, Gareth.

Hi, newbie member here… I can comment slightly, I don’t have the d5 version that your looking at but I do have the Audi a8 lwb 3.0v6 diesel 2017 model just before the facelift… I have owned the car since 01/10/2021. I purchased the car with 19,306 miles and I am currently sitting at 246,000 ish. i have to say, I’ve had a few lwb cars, this for me is the best car to date , I’ve owned Mercedes s class, bmw 7 series and my last car was a Jaguar xjl… for me, the Audi a8 has been the best, by far may I add… I love the driving position, the seats, the super smooth gearbox, the suspension, customers absolutely love the car, it’s been absolutely perfect. i have the car serviced every 6 weeks, and other than tyres and brakes along with the servicing it’s been faultless. after 5,600 hours of driving my long term memory states 43.1 mpg which is pretty good for such a big car. im hoping to get the car to around 350,000 before moving over to the d5…. I’ve heard of some issues relating to air suspension after a certain mileage and also adblue issues with the pipe, however, I’ve encountered none of these, maybe I got lucky. the jag was certainly a winner In the looks department, but basic inside and a bit ghosty with electric issues. the bmw was a nice but feel rear seat passengers suffered a harsh ride, maybe because my was an m tech version possibly. the Mercedes was nice as well, however main dealer pricing and customer service meant I wouldn’t buy another one.. for me, Audi will remain top spot.. it ticks all boxes, I quite like the fact that it floats under the radar in my profession… if the lottery numbers come up then I’ll head to rolls Royce, until then, the A8L is just perfect. Hope that helps.

IV just bought my first ever Audi and classic. My Dad had one over 20 years ago and I thought I would follow in his footsteps. Drove 10 hours up north to sunny Scotland and gave me no problems on the way. Hope to get it running more smoothly for next summer. Does anyone have any advice on owning, driving and maintaining one? I'm a car guy but not overly confident when it comes to tinkering with cars mechanically. It's a Audi 80 16v 2.0. Thanks Chris

I am being "testy" as you call it because the forum is being plagued by people like yourself who pose questions and never bother to look at the replies that others have spent time and effort on. If your problem was important enough to spend time composing your questions, surely it is worth a little more time to read and aknowledge their replies? Is that really too much to expect? If nothing else, the matter is one of good manners.

From all the admin team Just want to wish all our members a happy Easter 🐰🐣 hope you have a great day 😊

Whether it is worthwhile is a judgement only you can make, depending on how attached you are to the car. In your place I would get the cost of repair and compare it to how much you are willing to pay for a different car.

When I got my Q5, I was painfully aware of just how scratched and dented the centre trim was. Decided it was finally time to rip out the whole centre console so I could remove the offending trim. Replacing with a standard trim would just end up the same way, the carbon replacements are either too expensive or poor fitting so instead I used some alloy wheel repair filler to fill in all the dents and scratches. After a few hours to cure I got on with the boring job of sanding it down. Got some carbon fibre wrap and set to work. Took me forever to get to this stage but as it was my first attempt at wrapping I expected as much. Carefully put everything back together and here is the end result. Think it's turned out rather nicely 😎

Hi There, thank you for your reply , I took the car to the paint shop and the people have this device that scans the paint you are trying to match , and brings up the paint code , so if anyone is needing the paint code for Audi Matt Grey it’s LMi7, thanks again for the help much appreciated .

Further to my above post 3 weeks ago, my A6 has reluctantly now been traded in with Audi and I have a replacement car. A shame because I really like the A6 (my 3rd) but could not tolerate the inherent unreliability and likely forthcoming big bills. I have spent time googling Audi + Vitesco, then making use of google translate and reading the various posts on the German websites and forums. (For those not aware, Vitesco appears to be the manufacturer of 48V equipment for these models including the notorious BSG or RSG in German - RiemenStarterGenerator). Clearly liability and fault for all these problems is a major discussion between the two companies which seems far from resolution according to the reports and will be hugely expensive however the legal process pans out. One piece of perhaps relevant information from the motor-talk.de forums suggests that the early "potentially faulty" BSGs had a serial number commencing in 4N0, whereas the SN of the more recent "good" BSGs commence with 4N1. So to possibly answer my own question, I reckon the more recent models with the 48V system may well have the issue fully sorted, which is a glimmer of good news for those such as me who like the concept of the system, despite the poor execution of it. Perhaps surprisingly, I remain a fan of Audi cars as a brand, though the company's poor handling and lack of ownership of the whole BSG issue is simply dreadful. Nonetheless, to anyone buying a new or used Audi with the 48V MHEV system, a long extended warranty would be a very good investment I reckon.

Quick update - Martin at Bolton Car Interiors did a fantastic job, communicated really well and was reasonably priced for what was a unique job which no other garage could do. So indirectly he saved me 000's of pounds. Great place if you ever need any work doing.

Hi Everyone, a quick introduction here. In June I picked up a new A3 TFSI S Line Black Edition in Ascari blue. After a few minor quality issues I am now extremely happy with my purchase. Not going to bore everyone with the minute details but I had to deal with: 1. Loose number plate on the rear (Dealer fitted wrong clips) 2. Wrong puddle lights (no Audi rings) had to go back twice as they fitted exactly the same (incorrect lights) on the first visit 3. MMI software problems (settings not being saved) more on this in a separate post. We think we have solved the problem.

Had this message appear on Friday night. Thankfully having read this tale, I knew exactly what to do - ordered one off ebay £14.99 it arrived today and was fitted tonight in less than 5 mins - great forum.

Hi for all you folks out there with Adblue tank problems mainly caused by crystals in the system, level sensors and delivery pipes, had a good long look at this product and what it does and its been very successful when used on lorries and is now available for cars, adding approx £11-14 on to your adblue fill its still cheaper than a new system that you can only get from Audi. Steve.

My W12 swapped B7 A4 Avant. Running D3 A8 W12 and B7 A4 TDI 6spd 0A3

I doubt we can expect a peaceful future Gareth, but I join you in wishing for it. Happy Christmas dear readers.

Merry Christmas Gareth and all our lovely members, hope you all have a lovely day 😊⛄🎄🎊🎁 Thank you for your great posts and advice 🙂

Local mechanic will be a lot cheaper. The alternative option is an Audi independent specialist

Arrived in 2-3 months. Way earlier than anticipated.

Thank you so much. I just recently replaced the pads with Brembo’s front and back and they seem to be working a treat. I ended up getting them from ECP in the end. Thank you very much for the recommendation.

Credited to Frank Montesinos: "Figured I'd post this in case it helps someone else. If you've had what sounds like a buzzy/blown center speaker on the dash, it might just be the grille vibrating. It was really bad with loud phone calls. I just pulled the grill/vent trim piece and added small, thin felt pads. I first just did it mostly around the speaker, but still had some minor buzzing, so I went back and added more. For reference, this is a 2013 A6 3.0T with the Bose system."

Hi, I had very little knowledge or experience with cars, so the steps I mentioned earlier were as far as I could manage on my own. Fortunately, I found a mechanic who was able to assist. I’m not entirely sure how he managed to slide the core out, but he did, and he replaced it with the part I had sourced. That resolved the issue completely. I believe I paid around £100–£200 for the repair, which was significantly cheaper than the quotes I had received from Audi and other garages. From what I saw, a flush might have worked as well, as the old core was clogged with a lot of debris. If you’re facing high repair quotes, it might be worth trying that first. Sorry I couldn’t be more helpful, good luck with your repair.

Hi yes they are one of the best cars you could own in terms of drivability and comfort but the built in obsolescence is off the Richter scale, I think what happened was they built a reputation for reliability during the nineties and have been trading on that ever since whilst back tracking on parts quality, I think the premium sticker is pretty faded for most German car producers, BMW Mercedes Audi. Steve.

Make them aware you're concerned that the two cars are totally different despite being mechanically the same and ask for a refund? You're allowed a refund up to the first 30 days after sale.

Congratulations! The car definitely takes second place. Hope you all have a fantastic day tomorrow. Hope the weather is great 🙂

they are an absolute pain in the bum to change. but going in thru the wheel well is the quickest and "easiest" Make sure you have a axel stands and not working under there with the car held up by the jack. I use wheel blocks and axel stands every time now after a near miss some years ago that seen a shogun fall off a jack and narrowly miss taking a friends arm off at the shoulder.

Update: Just booked my car in for the service and cambelt replacement, to be told it has a chain belt so no need for replacement. Happy days!

End of story then Adam, and was to do with changes of number plates as was suggested. I’ll let you claim it was solved by yourself!

Instrument cluster problems happen from time to time on A3s of that era. A new cluster from Audi will cost you silly money, whereas the old cluster can be repaired by companies such as ECU Testing for less than £300. You will have to remove, post, and refit the cluster if you choose to have it repaired. Scan through this forum's history for examples of people in a similar position who have had their clusters repaired successfully.

My speculation from the phrase "running out of road" is that the braking is harsh enough to trigger the ABS system. The rapid sequence of brake & release pulses can cause vibration.

Always worth inspecting the wiring in the flexible harness section between body and tailgate/boot. Wires are prone to fraction at this point. Perhaps you could let us know if that is the culprit or can be eliminated. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hi the most common cause of this is people grease the backs of the pads most brake pads come with an anti squeal pad on the back of the pad its like a film of rubber which when the pads are first used bonds the pad to the surface of the calliper stopping the pad from moving, therefore if you have greased that surface they move when the pads are released and squeal. Steve.

A "passive" issue? That's just the sort of explanation that explains nothing. My guess is that the dealer has no idea what was wrong. However it is good that you took it back as the dealer has presumably recorded the event, so if it happens again soon you have good reason to reject the car.

Not been doing too much too her fixed the exhaust on properly and been looking for the red interior, last night had a good touch got a full set normally 600.00 to 1200.00, I won this for 136.00 yea totally stole it

Anyone interested in going to this show? Has been great in the past. This year's Jap Vs German with Rogue Static's own twist is back again at our newest venue Aldwinians rugby club in Manchester. bringing the people of Manchester some stunning motors and a great atmosphere all aimed at for the love of cars, don't have a Jap or German motor? not an issue we welcome everyone. We are asking for £5 per car on entry, which will all be donated to our fantastic charity "SSAFA the armed forces charity" who we have proudly supported for years now. there will be trades, food and facilities as per usual with our events, please be aware that the pitch is out of bounds but we are now able to place light vehicles on the apron near the pitch which now gives us more vehicular room than last time. our marshalls and event staff will all have two way radios in case of emergency and all relevant R.A.M.S have been supplied to the venue. So with that all taken care of all you have to do is click going, pop it on your calendar and show up 😁 Traders confirmed: MAS Decals Swan Lady 3D Scratch entertainment (aka DJ Liam) Virtual Rides (VR rollercoaster) Squid Ink Detailing The Coffee Guy And our special guest Dan Red Media we have three Handcrafted awards to give out too: Best Japanese car Best German Car Best in Show This is a static event and we keep to our policy of park up keys out whilst attending our events anyone caught being a !Removed! will be asked to leave and escorted from the venue, better it's us than the venues manager 😉 no tickets just pay in entry our staff will be on hand with donations buckets when you arrive and throughout the day every little can help those in need greatly and we thank you all in advance.

Thanks for being in touch Linds. When you say your small garage tightened the belt, and it now makes a noise - concerns. I’m also intrigued to work out how you actually know the belt is tighter than it was. If (in caps) the belt is tighter than it should be, are you happy to entrust the fitting of a new belt and assembly to them? Water pump? - if cambelt driven on your engine. Wondered what you propose to do about that. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hi all, I came across an issue recently that appears common enough for people to post with requests for solutions but unusually where I failed to find a concrete fix. So here is my stab at this: The other week I went to do an oil check, pulled the bonnet release level and to my dismay felt no resistance and the bonnet remained firmly shut. Bugger – how to get the bonnet open? There is no access from the front – even destroying off the plastic grill will not get you to any bolts that will help. What is the solution without resorting to a can opener and consequentially a new bonnet?? Here it is… It will be much better to download the attached pdf as this has pics that will help a lot, but instructions with no pics are: 1. Go to B&Q (or equivalent hardware store) and purchase a 4-6mm diameter steel rod between 70 cm and a meter in length. Mine cost £2.60!!! 2. Get a decent vice and make two 90-degree bends at each end of the rod about 10 cm from end of rod by hand (I off-set each end by 90 degrees approx.), to make a ‘emergency bonnet release tool’. 3. Get the front of the car on ramps or jack up as high as possible. Remove undertray and get a good torch and get underneath…. 4. You need to locate the bonnet lock mechanism – it’s at the top of the radiator fans. It will be very hard to see… From below, at the right angle, you should be able to see the underside of the lock mechanism look for the large spring. 5. The reason you are unable to open the bonnet might be: 1, the cable has snapped; or 2, (as in my case) the end of the cable has come lose from the lock mechanism. The 2nd issue is common if you have had the front off and lock carrier into the service position and the cable-end has not been seated back in properly… 5. There are actually 2 sites for a cable to connect. If you have a RHD vehicle then the cable seats into the lower slot; if a LHD then upper slot. You need to get the end of your ‘emergency bonnet release tool’ into one of these two slots, and then twist using the lock housing to lever off and move the release mechanism. If you get into the lower slot the twist right; if you get into the top slot, then twist left. If you use a tube spanner or the end of a ring spanner to get on the other end of the rod where the other 90-degree bend is then you get more force and the bonnet should open! Brilliant. 6. I then decided to add a bit of thick plastic cut to size to cover the cable end housing to stop it coming out again. Drill a small hole and tap a screw into it but do not tighten yet. 7. Reinstall the lock, and reseat the cable end properly, then swing the plastic down over the cable end and tighten screw. Not sure if this will work/last, but at least you now have an ‘emergency bonnet release tool’ to sort it… Hope this is of some help…. Bonnet open solution.pdf

Hi All just thought id share if it already hasn't been i lost power to my front doors no windows worked wing mirror stopped and central locking to drivers door, so after stripping own the dash under the wheel to get to the fuse box to check all wires and taking the door cards of and looking couldn't find any damaged wires it turns out that it was the ground wire to the module in the door that had dis connected somewhere in the rum so ive snipped it and joined a new wire to a bolt that has a ground in the door all working again now . just thought i would share in case someone else has this problem

Well iv just put the back boxes on not properly or bolted up just too get the sound and I'm well happy 20240318_111145.mp4

i can see why it was 1100,it looks like a very professional repair in fairness.it wont happen him again hopefully! Greg

Guide and pictures credited to Jack Millin. Flat bottom steering wheel off a S3 8P fitted to my 2010 B8 Avant. The electrical plug needed 2 little tabs trimming off and 3 of the wires de pinning and putting in different positions and it all works. I've attached a picture of the wiring guide as well. This guide should also be applicable to the b7 A4 too.