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Apologies for the gripe, but the forum has recently suffered from a spate of what can be termed ‘Post and Run’ new members, who seem to think it’s perfectly acceptable to post a plea for help, and simply not return to view the help given. In a more diluted form, help is offered, but is very rarely acknowledged even via. a simple press of the Like button, leave alone a posted Thank You. The last part of the gripe is that we frequently have to ask for additional information, and this extra detail often never materialises. Please remember, everyone who posts replies do so without payment, but it certainly does cost them in time - in terms of the Moderators and Admin back up - a lot of time. So a special plea to all on here who post needing help:- please be respectful enough to acknowledge any help given, rather than simply accept it as a no-cost, no time of yours, free advice service. It’s wearing thin folks, so if you want to retain this service, please respect and acknowledge its benefits. Thank you all for reading this, and above all, agreeing to adhere to the respect that is needed to be shown. Kind regards, On behalf of the Moderators. Please note:- This request is to all members, not just new ones.

Hello Captain Threaders Dont know of any offers regarding Audi Dashcams but I can 100 percent recommend a Blackvue two camera system and the company that installs them. I'm on my second Q8 and on both, for the first time in my motoring life and many many motor cars ( I'm 77 years of age by the way ) I made the decision to have a dashcam fitted to both. For my security and safety. I researched alot and it seems that the two high end cameras that are recommended by the various motor magazines are the Blackvue system and the Nextbase. They are both at the top of the dashcam available technology but I do believe you get what you pay for and as our cars are pretty expensive and valuable I decided to go for the duo system Blackvue backed up by a seperate Cellink battery. Both systems in both my cars were fitted and installed by TTW Installations situated in Nottingham. Now I realise thats a bit of a way to go seeing you are in West Yorkshire as it is for me being in Hampshire butif you value and love your car as I do I assure you its worth it. Small Company run by a husband and wife team who employ one other fitter. Just take a look at their website and see the type of vehicle they are working on. They do all sorts including top of the range tracker systems and speed warning systems. They are car nuts and look after your car and the installation is quite superb. All leads and wires hidden and the battery is either fitted hidden under a seat or in the boot. Nothing on show and the quality of the camera and lens and the playback is superb. I think it makes a perfect deterrent. Hope this is of interest. Frank

Hey Ahmei - I had to get RAC to tow our Q5 to the nearest Audit garage. Needed a full steering rack replacement which cost £1.4k . Took them 48 hrs to sort out at the garage. Unfortunate but don't think I had a choice as it wasn't related to the battery. All the best.

Noticed my rear light bar has started delaminating in half a dozen places no outside impact damage it’s coming from inside the unit Audi immediately offered to change this under warranty just a heads up to see if yours is ok as they cost around 1600 quid to buy IMG_8669.mov IMG_8669.mov IMG_8669.mov

Hi Raj, In terms of the gearbox, though Audi say it's a lifetime gearbox, there is actually no such thing. I've read that when asked what it means, Audi state that it means lifetime of the gearbox, not lifetime of the car itself. As such, I'm an advocate of servicing the DSG regardless of it supposedly being lifetime as Audi say. I personally aim to do it every 40,000 miles or 4 years (make sure to get the transmission fluid AND mechatronic fluid changed). You'll notice the gear changes are much much smoother. In terms of your shock absorber, I used KYB once and personally not a fan, though I've heard it's a decent brand from others. The ride was too bumpy for my liking. Do not buy from Audi unless you're happy to pay extremely inflated prices. I use AVS Car Parts (vwspares.co.uk) for my car parts and they supply OEM equipment. Give them a ring. You cannot go wrong with Sachs shock absorbers which are the ones that likely came on the car originally. Don't forget it's recommended to do both shocks so that the ride is consistent (also if 1 has gone, likely the other will be going soon).

Dear fellow members, It's about time I wrote to you all. We've said goodbye to the car and I write to say goodbye to you. I contacted a firm in Walsall specialising in left hand drive vehicles. I got the impression it was one man and a couple of sons. Anyway just as I looked forward to some time working on its kerb appeal, the man rang to announce their imminent visit to the Northwest. "Yes, come to us too", said I, and suddenly it was all over. We were left clutching a few hundred pounds, he left hoping to find a Spaniard needing a bargain in which to get home. Perhaps a prospective buyer was already identified (given the haste). Anyway, we're not expecting complaints: as you all know, an Audi of that vintage will just keep on going. However, I am going. Thanks, best wishes and goodbye to all who submitted comments and or advice, yours sincerely Peter Wight

South West Caves & Caverns Road Trip 🚗🕳️ This road trip takes you through some of the most incredible caves and caverns in South West England, from prehistoric sites to hidden coastal caves. Perfect for history lovers, adventure seekers, and geology enthusiasts! 📍 Clearwell Caves, Gloucestershire 🏞️⛏️ 📍 Cheddar Gorge & Caves, Somerset 🏔️🦴 📍 Wookey Hole Caves, Somerset 🧙‍♀️🕳️ 📍 Beer Quarry Caves, Dorset 🏰🪨 📍 Kent’s Cavern, Torquay 🦴🌍 📍 Carnglaze Caverns, Cornwall 🌊✨ 📍 Merlin’s Cave, Cornwall 🏰🔮 Total Distance: 🚗 Approx. 250 miles

Just thought I'd share this link for replacing the window regulator in an A6 C5 as it's the most helpful one I've found. Very clear instructions and tells you which Torx bits and rivets you'll need. The whole process took me about two hours start to finish and I was taking my time to ensure everything was correct. Hope this helps anyone contemplating the same repair. How To: Replacing AUDI C5 RS6 Window Regulator!

I've just replaced the CCM in my A6 and this is the best video I've found for reprogramming the key fobs if you're fortunate enough to have two of them. Very clear instructions and worked first time for both of my key fobs with no messing around. The reprogramming information starts at 9:00 but the rest of the video may be useful to anybody that needs to repair their key fob. https://youtu.be/RyNpeZUJtsc

My understanding is that they should operate on demand in any mode except efficiency.

Raj. Audi recommendations in respect of cambelt and water pump have changed over the years so it is not surprising you can not get consistent answers from dealers. Personally I stuck to the old suggestion of 70000 miles. Nobody suffered an engine failure by servicing it ahead of schedule. When it comes to the gearbox you are on your own. You are pushing more power through it and the rest of the transmission than normal, so you can not rely on normal service recommendations. Yet again, nobody suffered a gearbox failure by servicing it ahead of schedule.

I doubt it is an electrical or sensor fault because the electrical system is off when the car sags. It is more likely to be an air leak from the bag, valves, or pipe. I would spray or brush soapy water on all the components and watch for bubbles.

Sent it to ecu testing and think it was about £250 + vat

Hi,new here but 4 years a member of the A2OC.As you can see,I have a 1.4 petrol SE and recently acquired the red 1.6 fsi SE,currently Sorn-ed.Its been stood a while,only just got it on and off the trailer!Will be pestering people for advice on it soon,lol.

My pleasure. If it ain't broke, don't fix it (had to learn that the hard way). A service regen isn't risk free as there's been occasional stories of service regens melting the DPF. If the car is not causing issues, drive happily and worry free; let the ECU worry about the active regens as it should. Long distance driving will allow for passive regen.

2004 Audi A4 1.9 TDI Sport (B6) - £1500 Registered: May 2004 Previous Owners: 4 Current Owner: Since May 2013. Transmission: 6 Speed Manual Fuel: Diesel Colour: Metallic Blue Interior: Grey Leather/Suede. Mileage: 155’664 BHP: 130 MOT: 06/12/2025 Service History: Full service carried out by specialist 05/12/2024 (serviced yearly by Audi dealership or specialist). Timing Belt changed 08/12/2023. Tax: £240 Location: Wolverhampton/Birmingham Additional Details: Selling as will be getting a company car soon, still looks and drives great for its age, does an 80-mile round trip going down the motorway every few weeks with no problems. Comes with factory fitted 18” alloys (inc. spare), 2 keys, manuals, original and new service book, HPI clear and all MOT certificates and invoices since 2013, with full service carried every year since then (plus oil and filter changes in between at approx. 3000 miles during 2013 and 2018 when driven 10K+ miles a year). One minor incident impacted the front passenger side door, chose to replace door through insurance on 17/10/2016. Paintwork generally in good condition, some bubbling and a couple of spots of rust, no leaks or mechanical problems, and all electrics working, but aircon needs recharging and some minor issues as expected for a 21-year-old car as follows: Crack on the windscreen (has passed MOT’s) Rip on the driver’s seat Glovebox stuck (can open via the side) Airbag light stays on MOT advice notes: Nearside Front Tyre worn close to legal limit/worn on edge Front Sub-frame corroded but not seriously weakened Front Anti-roll bar linkage pin or bush worn but not resulting in excessive movement Rear Registration plate deteriorated but not likely to be misread Rear Sub-frame corroded but not seriously weakened Price reflects the above, but as those in the know can verify, this 1.9 TDI engine is very economical and an absolute workhorse, so still has plenty of life left in it!

I would just like to ask. Why? The A6 Avant has quite a low profile and wide stance already. I am probably "old Skool" but I think some of these modifications ask the chassis and axles to do things that they were not originally designed for, and could cause premature failures of some components.

Well, 2 months later and it has decided to just start working again... without me doing a thing! With the manual control to put it up, I've greased the hinges and pivots, so wondering if it had somewhat seized for a while, and then unstuck itself...

Bear in mind that remapping might be counted as a modification as far as your insurer is concerned, particularly if the power is increased, so unless you declare the modification the policy may be invalid.

If it is chain rattle then it’s linked to long service intervals potentially at the start if the car’s life. The oil viscosity and lubrication properties are diminished by 8k miles, never mind 18k miles. 5w30 will come out like water when draining. What is history of servicing please? Before committing to any repair, you might want to speak to VAG Technic (Dudley) or Decimal Tenths (Newcastle) first. They regularly drop engines and repair tappets (worn needle bearings), stretched chains or slap (worn chain sprockets or broken plastic guides). The figure of £2.2k seems cheap, this is normally double given labour and genuine parts cost. First thing to do would be to drop oil and see if any contaminants. They also check oil filter for any metal filings or swarf. If that all checks out they can remove rocker covers to view camshafts. You can possibly see camshaft wear with endoscope, but only partial view, or even get a stethoscope to the back to listen to see if that reveals more. Chains are meant to be for life of car, but it’s all down to service history and use unfortunately.

I agree with your logic that a temperature sensor fault is the likely cause of the problem, probably the ambient or external sensor. Unfortunately I have no idea where it is.

Hi I agree with Steve. Wheel spacers put undue load on the axle bearings, and you would probably have to declare them to your insurance company as well.

Welcome Barry, you have just won the prize for the shortest introductory post from a newcomer. We do not charge by the word! Kind regards, Gareth.

Hi Rohith, Have the coolant temperature sensors been checked? It's strange that the engine is colder despite it working harder. The 1.6 TDI has 2 sensors (many do not know this). When facing the car with the bonnet open, 1 sensor is located on the left side in a pipe going towards the EGR, the second is on the right side basically in the engine itself. My recommendation would be to find someone who has VCDS (I'm happy to help if you're able to make it to West Yorkshire) and measure the live data from both sensors. If there's a big discrepancy, it's possible one of the sensors has gone. The fact that your fuel consumption is up and your engine temperature is behaving in the opposite way it would if there were a blockage makes it more likely to be a sensor issue.

Thanks Chris. The horse has already bolted, but…

The stink of burning rubber often indicates a belt is slipping.

Hi Ray I’m in a similar boat although I’ve not remapped my engine. Audi said the same on both cambelt and gearbox and I’ve had a local garage say the same on the gearbox. I’m going to change the belt at the 100000 mark. Having remaped the car would probably mean you reconsider the service Intervals. I’m finding it’s an expensive car to run. Cambelt is not a DIY job due to specialist tooling and my clutch pack is on the way out at 80000. Over £2500 to replace at a local specialist. Still it’s a lovely car to drive.

Bit of information for anyone with electrical issues that seem to be most likely down to broken wires in the A pillar loom. The symptoms I had (all on the passenger side) were No door open displayed on the dashboard No footwell lights No puddle lights No door edge red light Door lock button not working with central locking Power windows and speakers were working fine. Everything was pointing to broken wires in the A pillar loom but after a lot of checking visually and with a multimeter everything seemed to be fine on that front. Spent a few hours searching the internet and found a lot of topics suggesting the problem was with the door closed sensor on the lock actuator. Installed a new one this morning and all the problems are cured, worth a try if anyone's having similar problems and has ruled out any other issues. By the way, I did see a few guides on repairing the existing lock but it seems like a fair bit of faffing around for something that isn't guaranteed to work. My new actuator came in at £23 delivered from EBay and works perfectly so that seems the best option to me.

Hi Stevey Y, Thanks for your response. Indeed, I'm sure I did, but I believe I only changed the last digit & not the last 3. I've now learned that about the serial number, so that will come in handy. 🙂 I don't believe you can on my A4 B8 as it's non-UDS. You can only enter 10 or 11 digit part number, 1 or 2 spaces, the battery manufacturer, 1 space and then the 10 digit serial number. Yes, me too, but every battery supplier, aside from Tanya, suggested a 70Ah 760A battery, so I went by popular suggestion. As I said to cliffcoggin above, it wasn't until my engine continued to fail to start after I'd installed the A7 battery that I looked further into the suggestion of using the cars 'starter battery', which I learned was a 92Ah 520A. This is when I posted as above. Apologies, I should have clarified that I changed the pump in the tank around 3 years ago, less than 12k miles ago, for a new Bosch pump, so that shouldn't be an issue. I haven't physically tested it, which I will do tomorrow, but it's making all the right noises, at all of the right times and instances. There is a simple way to test the flow of that low pressure pump, by disconnecting from the HPFP and adding a plastic 500ml bottle; it should reach around 1/3 full when opening the door and after emptying, it should reach a little under 2/3 full when pressing the key. So watch this space on that. Thanks again, Paul.

Yes, new it was £52k, and the tax is at £600 for 5 years. I knew the huuuuge 'new car' tax was a thing, but i didn't realise it was 5 years. Good news about the oil. I'll keep an eye on it. Expectation is that i'll keep it at least 10 years, but the whole 'no new petrol or diesel cars after 2030' position may change that. I paid cash for it, so no free servicing. They did try to convince me, and said I could pay it off any time without penalty, but the Ts & Cs left me entirely at their whim as far as interest goes - they add it on at the start, not based on the outstanding balance. The ALA does go off when I use that switch, just as it does in the MMI, but it always comes back on after the ignition is turned off and on again. I know I can avoid its actions by indicating, but i've driven reskinned BMWs for 12 years, it's going to be a hard habit to break. Thanks

Hi, so I’m thinking of changing my current steering wheel & airbag on my Audi a3 8v pfl (non s-line) to an s-line steering wheel, of course considering that the steering wheel would have to be a pfl model too. Would this be a simple plug and play fit or would I need to make any adaptations/coding to the vehicle? I’ve attached an image of my current steering wheel which is an 2015 Audi a3 8v and the supposed steering wheel that I am currently viewing which seems to be off a 2013 model also pfl. Any help would be much appreciated. Thanks in advance.

[UPDATE] I made the decision of the purchase and installed it as of today. It was quite frustrating to take the old airbag off, but eventually got there. The installation was a success. It was plug and play as I expected, no additional coding/adaptations were needed for this specific steering wheel/airbag.

I wasn't aware you could get Audi's navigation system from anybody but Audi. Or do you have something else in mind?

Just an update on the situation turns out the egr valve is totally f**cked,all the intake system including head was badly carboned up,dpf I took off & had flow tested & was clear,all 4 injectors were badly scorched on the tips,tested fine ,but were also worm 0.5mm where the washer sits so were never going to seal properly. when I was told the injectors were badly scorched I decided to take the head off & get it pressure tested ,skimmed & cleaned (still waiting to get it back) so now hopefully when she is all back together that will be the end of my injector popping problem.

Changed The CCM this afternoon and reprogrammed both key fobs... winner winner chicken dinner! Feeling quite pleased with myself. I'd already sorted the water ingress so that should be fine now, the old CCM definitely didn't look happy sat in it's puddle. Two more jobs to take care of, broken wires in the passenger A pillar loom, and driver's window regulator. Off work until Sunday so I'm hoping for a couple of dry days.

Not done it yet as the A6 is still off the road but I'm planning this once the rebuild starts.

Sorry, I’m unable to help with you query, but I’m interested in the outcome.

Welcome Steve. Electric power steering? If so, first eliminate the battery as your source of the problem. Halfords stores can measure its efficiency for you. Your wallet will appreciate if you refer back to us if the battery is found to be substandard. Kind regards, Gareth.

These are performance engines, so go into this with your eyes open. Fundamentally this is about servicing and maintenance, if this has been on long service schedule, walk away. This is all about history. It’s chain drive, and plastic guides are known to wear. How many previous owners, did they keep it stock or throw on engine maps and other modifications. For me that would be no-no, but each to their own. Oil and filter needs to have been changed religiously every 5-8k with receipts to prove. Ideally you want to scan the car with VCDS, what reoccurring faults keep coming back? Check everything works as it should, from air con to audio. Gearbox, probably Tiptronic, then would benefit form oil change now. Check out VAGTechnic. They had a S5 in with more faults than you can shake a stick at. Not sure if 2011 models suffer rocker arm needle bearing issues, pretty sure it was younger vehicles. Like all performance cars, and I’ve no idea of your budget, keep £2-3k back. Tyres, brakes and so on aren’t cheap, plus any engine issues are a ball ache. The engine under-tray should be bone dry. Oil leaks could be anything, from oil coolers to turbo. I wouldn’t expect major suspension issues yet, but again factor in a refresh if this is going to be a keeper.

Hi Gareth, And some news: As expected the selling garage (which aren't Audi dealers) were little help. They said they had handed over what they had and couldn't tell us any owner history (data protection etc). We have an outline owner history anyway, thanks to the various number plate changes matching with MOT info. We've sent in a V888 to see what else that might produce. The good news: we've found the servicing data! And the stamps tally with the data in the selling advert. I was checking the spec for the radio/6CD Bose system fitted to the car and asked my friend if he had the code just in case he ever had a flat battery or needed to disconnect the battery for any reason. He dug out a small folder with the original radio/CD instruction booklet and tucked away behind it was the very slim Audi Service Schedule booklet. Bingo: dealers stamps in there. Now he can move forward with (sadly) selling this vehicle that he happily had put a lot of money into as he had planned to be keeping it for a couple of years yet. Life sometimes just doesn't play the way we plan does it?

Hi it has nothing to do with the braking bias and more to do with the pad material, one of the posters mentioned Audi fitting low dust pads, these are always noisy and a lot harder compound standard aftermarket pads contain more organic compounds which create more dust but generally make less noise. Steve.

For goodness sake take it back to the dealer as soon as you can, and forget about hurting his feelings or upsetting him. You have a statutory 30 days in which to reject the car if it is faulty. After that time the dealer will not want to know you as he will be laughing all the way to the bank. There's a very good reason secondhand car dealers have a poor reputation.

£250 Chips Away will sort the Aluminium corrosion - no issues I love this car - it drives superbly - I went to Paris and back from West Midlands 2x weeks after I bought it and it was supreme - quiet/hugely quick and refined and returned 45mpg over circa 900 miles

Won’t be long before these attain classic status I reckon.

Have a look at EBC products.

So, oil temperature is 73C but your water/coolant temperature gauge is sitting at just under 50C Possibly thermostat failed/stuck in the open position 🤷‍♂️

Appreciate the help guys. I found the culprit.

Glad you got sorted 🙂

This is the fourth time you have posted the same message without any explanation, which to me looks like spam. Either you post your solution on the forum or I will ban you.