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Apologies for the gripe, but the forum has recently suffered from a spate of what can be termed ‘Post and Run’ new members, who seem to think it’s perfectly acceptable to post a plea for help, and simply not return to view the help given. In a more diluted form, help is offered, but is very rarely acknowledged even via. a simple press of the Like button, leave alone a posted Thank You. The last part of the gripe is that we frequently have to ask for additional information, and this extra detail often never materialises. Please remember, everyone who posts replies do so without payment, but it certainly does cost them in time - in terms of the Moderators and Admin back up - a lot of time. So a special plea to all on here who post needing help:- please be respectful enough to acknowledge any help given, rather than simply accept it as a no-cost, no time of yours, free advice service. It’s wearing thin folks, so if you want to retain this service, please respect and acknowledge its benefits. Thank you all for reading this, and above all, agreeing to adhere to the respect that is needed to be shown. Kind regards, On behalf of the Moderators. Please note:- This request is to all members, not just new ones.

Not aware of any issues with C8 platform. Biggest thing is budget. 50TDI (3 litre) Quattro models are paired with 8 speed Tiptronic unit. These are regarded as bomb-proof. Gearbox is sealed for life, but in reality a gear oil change at 80k miles or 8 years is recommended. 40TDI (2 litre) comes with 7 speed S Tronic unit and needs serviced every 38k miles. On both cars, if I was doing high mileage, then Tiptronic box is the one to go for. That will eat up the miles. In addition, avoid long service regimes. Change oil and filter every 8-9k, which in your case is every 6 months. Extras I’d be looking for as standard given £40k + spend, LED Matrix headlights, rear view camera, adaptive cruise.

If you enjoy banging your head against a brick wall you could write to Audi UK Head Office.

I would just like to ask. Why? The A6 Avant has quite a low profile and wide stance already. I am probably "old Skool" but I think some of these modifications ask the chassis and axles to do things that they were not originally designed for, and could cause premature failures of some components.

Hello Captain Threaders Dont know of any offers regarding Audi Dashcams but I can 100 percent recommend a Blackvue two camera system and the company that installs them. I'm on my second Q8 and on both, for the first time in my motoring life and many many motor cars ( I'm 77 years of age by the way ) I made the decision to have a dashcam fitted to both. For my security and safety. I researched alot and it seems that the two high end cameras that are recommended by the various motor magazines are the Blackvue system and the Nextbase. They are both at the top of the dashcam available technology but I do believe you get what you pay for and as our cars are pretty expensive and valuable I decided to go for the duo system Blackvue backed up by a seperate Cellink battery. Both systems in both my cars were fitted and installed by TTW Installations situated in Nottingham. Now I realise thats a bit of a way to go seeing you are in West Yorkshire as it is for me being in Hampshire butif you value and love your car as I do I assure you its worth it. Small Company run by a husband and wife team who employ one other fitter. Just take a look at their website and see the type of vehicle they are working on. They do all sorts including top of the range tracker systems and speed warning systems. They are car nuts and look after your car and the installation is quite superb. All leads and wires hidden and the battery is either fitted hidden under a seat or in the boot. Nothing on show and the quality of the camera and lens and the playback is superb. I think it makes a perfect deterrent. Hope this is of interest. Frank

Hey Ahmei - I had to get RAC to tow our Q5 to the nearest Audit garage. Needed a full steering rack replacement which cost £1.4k . Took them 48 hrs to sort out at the garage. Unfortunate but don't think I had a choice as it wasn't related to the battery. All the best.

Noticed my rear light bar has started delaminating in half a dozen places no outside impact damage it’s coming from inside the unit Audi immediately offered to change this under warranty just a heads up to see if yours is ok as they cost around 1600 quid to buy IMG_8669.mov IMG_8669.mov IMG_8669.mov

Hi Raj, In terms of the gearbox, though Audi say it's a lifetime gearbox, there is actually no such thing. I've read that when asked what it means, Audi state that it means lifetime of the gearbox, not lifetime of the car itself. As such, I'm an advocate of servicing the DSG regardless of it supposedly being lifetime as Audi say. I personally aim to do it every 40,000 miles or 4 years (make sure to get the transmission fluid AND mechatronic fluid changed). You'll notice the gear changes are much much smoother. In terms of your shock absorber, I used KYB once and personally not a fan, though I've heard it's a decent brand from others. The ride was too bumpy for my liking. Do not buy from Audi unless you're happy to pay extremely inflated prices. I use AVS Car Parts (vwspares.co.uk) for my car parts and they supply OEM equipment. Give them a ring. You cannot go wrong with Sachs shock absorbers which are the ones that likely came on the car originally. Don't forget it's recommended to do both shocks so that the ride is consistent (also if 1 has gone, likely the other will be going soon).

Dear fellow members, It's about time I wrote to you all. We've said goodbye to the car and I write to say goodbye to you. I contacted a firm in Walsall specialising in left hand drive vehicles. I got the impression it was one man and a couple of sons. Anyway just as I looked forward to some time working on its kerb appeal, the man rang to announce their imminent visit to the Northwest. "Yes, come to us too", said I, and suddenly it was all over. We were left clutching a few hundred pounds, he left hoping to find a Spaniard needing a bargain in which to get home. Perhaps a prospective buyer was already identified (given the haste). Anyway, we're not expecting complaints: as you all know, an Audi of that vintage will just keep on going. However, I am going. Thanks, best wishes and goodbye to all who submitted comments and or advice, yours sincerely Peter Wight

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Just thought I'd share this link for replacing the window regulator in an A6 C5 as it's the most helpful one I've found. Very clear instructions and tells you which Torx bits and rivets you'll need. The whole process took me about two hours start to finish and I was taking my time to ensure everything was correct. Hope this helps anyone contemplating the same repair. How To: Replacing AUDI C5 RS6 Window Regulator!

I've just replaced the CCM in my A6 and this is the best video I've found for reprogramming the key fobs if you're fortunate enough to have two of them. Very clear instructions and worked first time for both of my key fobs with no messing around. The reprogramming information starts at 9:00 but the rest of the video may be useful to anybody that needs to repair their key fob. https://youtu.be/RyNpeZUJtsc

My understanding is that they should operate on demand in any mode except efficiency.

Raj. Audi recommendations in respect of cambelt and water pump have changed over the years so it is not surprising you can not get consistent answers from dealers. Personally I stuck to the old suggestion of 70000 miles. Nobody suffered an engine failure by servicing it ahead of schedule. When it comes to the gearbox you are on your own. You are pushing more power through it and the rest of the transmission than normal, so you can not rely on normal service recommendations. Yet again, nobody suffered a gearbox failure by servicing it ahead of schedule.

I doubt it is an electrical or sensor fault because the electrical system is off when the car sags. It is more likely to be an air leak from the bag, valves, or pipe. I would spray or brush soapy water on all the components and watch for bubbles.

Sent it to ecu testing and think it was about £250 + vat

Hi,new here but 4 years a member of the A2OC.As you can see,I have a 1.4 petrol SE and recently acquired the red 1.6 fsi SE,currently Sorn-ed.Its been stood a while,only just got it on and off the trailer!Will be pestering people for advice on it soon,lol.

My pleasure. If it ain't broke, don't fix it (had to learn that the hard way). A service regen isn't risk free as there's been occasional stories of service regens melting the DPF. If the car is not causing issues, drive happily and worry free; let the ECU worry about the active regens as it should. Long distance driving will allow for passive regen.

It’s very strange and I don’t think we are the only 2 who’ve been affected if it’s a radio transmission issue

I too have suffered a birdstrike which has cracked my LH led matrix headlight cover. Surely it is possible to replace just the polycarbonate outer cover? To replace the whole headlight seems typical of Audi dealers' desire to extract as much money as possible from their customers.

Looks like it’s reset itself so all good 🤞

Well, 2 months later and it has decided to just start working again... without me doing a thing! With the manual control to put it up, I've greased the hinges and pivots, so wondering if it had somewhat seized for a while, and then unstuck itself...

Changed over from the winter wheels to the summer ones and decided I fancied an upgrade at the same time, managed to get my hands on a set of 2021 S-Line wheels which I love the look of. Makes the car look that little bit fresher and newer I think. I had black 17s on for winter, not a fan of black wheels usually but for winter they were sufficient. Comments welcome...

I took the plunge and added a 2009 TTRS to my Audi collection! It needs a few bits of trim and new vents and some other bits and bobs but it’s pretty good condition and goes like a rocket

So had mine looked at passed one lot of tests but failed a chemical test, suspected Egr cooler and or inlet manifold cooler, worst case cracked head or head gasket. Issue is it’ll cost an arm and leg to find out as it’s a case of take it all apart and see what’s there after unbolting bits, was willing to throw some money at it if it solved the issue once and for all but there’s no guarantees so will keep it for a short while as it’s behaving right now (touch wood) and then look at a new motor as it’s at 97k and had it 7 years. Would have been happy to keep it going as I still get compliments on the paintwork regularly and imo still one of the prettiest cars on the road.

Hi I agree with Steve. Wheel spacers put undue load on the axle bearings, and you would probably have to declare them to your insurance company as well.

there’s 267000km on it, bought the car from a garage last august, had it 4 days and the car went into limp mode, we have an obd11 and plugged it in when this happened and it was showing up as the crankshaft sensor, garage let us take the car to audi to investigate and they couldn’t find a fault with the crankshaft sensor. The garage i got it from changed out the sensor but this wasn’t the underlying issue as the car was still in limp mode, they found an issue with the ECU and got a reconditioned ECU and also done the timing chain prior to this as they weren’t sure if it was an issue and they had the engine out already to replace the crankshaft sensor. the car was returned to me mid december with no issues. Never went into limp mode again and no noises or hard starts or anything up until i parked it nearly 2 weeks ago now and it wouldn’t start. Service wise it had just had a full service prior to me buying it but the garage didn’t have the service book so i can’t say what the regime was like prior to me getting it unfortunately. The ECU is currently out being tested to ensure it’s not that causing any issues so once that’s back in i’ll get the scan rerun next week and get the results off my mechanic, i do remember him saying when he scanned it first when it came in it was throwing up a lot of low voltage faults as well as the stabilisation programme control on the dash. He had the new starter in and ready to go and the battery all charged up and went to turn on the car and again it wouldn’t crank which left him baffled because the starter had the short circuit internally and that’s when he tried manually turning the engine but again no luck. He hasn’t taken out the injectors or looked further into it as he’s not sure where he could even start with it and recommended taking it to an audi specialist to see if they could help further with them being more familiar with the car and its engine.

You dont have to throw them out. Once you have picked up and fitted the replacements, bung em on eBay Or gumtree. Get some of the money back for what you spent on A leather interior. the seats you have look like “sports” seats. Possibly somebody is looking to upgrade to those

Hi you say the compression figures were low, as in how much lower than the figure quoted for ideal?, most oil pressure systems put on the light when the pressure drops to 4psi if it sinks any lower you will hear the big ends knocking, either way it wont do it any favours as Gareth said driving it like that, rather than lashing out on a new oil pump it will be better to drop the sump and remove the the caps on the crank one at a time and check that the big end shells are not scored or excessively worn if you do the first one and they are scored or the crank journal has scores dont bother with rest of them as you can guarantee the rest are the same or worse, in this case either get a refurbished engine or have your unit reconditioned with a new oil pump, personally I never use anything other than O.E. pumps and if you use reverse logic, if the original pump has managed 150k there is no reason why it wont do it again. Steve.

It l looks like you are searching Autodoc/ECP. If it were mine I would discount everything except Febi. Check out Parts in Motion for great service at competitive prices. Well worth checking their EBay listings for the correct part- often a little cheaper than buying the same part off their website. Let us know what you come up with Chris. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello James, Warning for low coolant level rather than coolant temperature?? If so, what you have found is most likely the culprit, but that is a coolant level sensor and not a coolant temperature sensor. Kind regards, Gareth.

Bit of information for anyone with electrical issues that seem to be most likely down to broken wires in the A pillar loom. The symptoms I had (all on the passenger side) were No door open displayed on the dashboard No footwell lights No puddle lights No door edge red light Door lock button not working with central locking Power windows and speakers were working fine. Everything was pointing to broken wires in the A pillar loom but after a lot of checking visually and with a multimeter everything seemed to be fine on that front. Spent a few hours searching the internet and found a lot of topics suggesting the problem was with the door closed sensor on the lock actuator. Installed a new one this morning and all the problems are cured, worth a try if anyone's having similar problems and has ruled out any other issues. By the way, I did see a few guides on repairing the existing lock but it seems like a fair bit of faffing around for something that isn't guaranteed to work. My new actuator came in at £23 delivered from EBay and works perfectly so that seems the best option to me.

Glad to read the problem was non existant. However I believe you still need to code the new battery to the car despite maintaining 12 volts during the swap.

Hi, £30 for pick up in Norwich area. Otherwise plus shipment costs.

Yes, new it was £52k, and the tax is at £600 for 5 years. I knew the huuuuge 'new car' tax was a thing, but i didn't realise it was 5 years. Good news about the oil. I'll keep an eye on it. Expectation is that i'll keep it at least 10 years, but the whole 'no new petrol or diesel cars after 2030' position may change that. I paid cash for it, so no free servicing. They did try to convince me, and said I could pay it off any time without penalty, but the Ts & Cs left me entirely at their whim as far as interest goes - they add it on at the start, not based on the outstanding balance. The ALA does go off when I use that switch, just as it does in the MMI, but it always comes back on after the ignition is turned off and on again. I know I can avoid its actions by indicating, but i've driven reskinned BMWs for 12 years, it's going to be a hard habit to break. Thanks

That's good to know

Thanks for that.

Check this thread. Do not drive it till it's fixed! As you can do more damage and end up with a more expensive repair.

Hey guys, wanted to share my solution here. My 06 2.0t A3 had an issue where it would crank and crank and crank but no start. Eventually I got it to stumble start and it was then running down on at least 1 cylinder. After giving it some gas it would finally clean up and then run fine. I did not immediately have a CEL, but when checking with an OBD2 reader I got these 5 codes, P0688 - ECM/PCM Power Relay Sense Circuit/Open P2149 - Fuel Injector Group B Supply Voltage Circuit/Open P0300 - Random/Multiple Cylinder Misfire Detected P0303 - Cylinder 3 Misfire Detected P0302 - Cylinder 2 Misfire Detected After some research here and online, no clear answers were given. I saw a lot of people replacing a lot of parts and spending money by blindly throwing parts at the car. When reading over the codes, I felt like most of them were "symptom" codes. The misfires are probably related to injector issues and the injectors not getting power is probably related to the PCM code. So I decided to replace my PCM relay, which in my car was not listed online or in the manual hardly anywhere. Here is a photo of the fusebox. The PCM relay is slot R1, circled in red. After replacing the PCM relay, my car is running properly without issue. Hope this helps someone :)

Thanks to all for the advice, all issues now resolved by replacing the right front level sensor!

Hi all, I know this is an older thread but just looking for some advice. I have a 2010 Audi A3 and I have the same flashing coil light. The error code on my basic reader is P00AF and also P2563 "turbocharger boost control position sensor A circuit". From what I can gather, I suspect I may have the same problem as the original author of the thread. I have it booked in with a VAG specialist this week. Any tips on how not to be fobbed off and ideas on costs would be much appreciated.

Welcome Steve. Electric power steering? If so, first eliminate the battery as your source of the problem. Halfords stores can measure its efficiency for you. Your wallet will appreciate if you refer back to us if the battery is found to be substandard. Kind regards, Gareth.

I fully agree with Syed that no intervention is needed under normal driving usage.

Glad you got sorted 🙂

Siyab. Watch this: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IJAScg6JrYI

I complained and just keep going and they offered the new tyres as replacement

Which is an excellent avenue to pursue. I am considering Rip Off Britain and Watchdog as other options. In writing to Audi I have told them they are not only risking the safety of Audi drivers and their passengers, but also the safety of other road users forced to take evasive action.

Just to close this thread, fuel pressure regulator valve checked out. I found a lad who was willing to take it on, but ended up baffled for a while. He removed injectors, seals were fine. Had them tested all were OK, off a little so got them serviced and calibrated. No metal anywhere, so no indication of failed HPFP. He stripped the top to get to the pump anyway, and removed the solenoid low pressure inlet valve. If this fails car should run in limp mode. Lo and behold it was not actuating, though solenoid resistance was good and impulse present. He had difficulty finding the part number, as Audi will only supply the entire HPFP if this fails. I had the number from the 7zap parts diagram website. Its a Bosch valve and not too expensive. The guys who serviced the injectors had one, so once installed, the car started. Plenty of work, I shudder to think what a main dealer would charge for the HPFP, and the complex work to change it (turbo out, DPF out ). I don't mind the injector servicing, they're all matched up now and in spec. The whole lot cost €840, so I'm happy out. The original consensus of injector failure was incorrect, not helped by the Audi training manual asserting that a failed solenoid valve on the HPFP would not prevent starting, even in limp mode. My man was baffled by this also, but the solenoid seems to have failed in such a way as to have closed the input to the HPFP chamber completely. It's a pity it's so inaccessible also, just a little less clutter and it could be removed and tested early in the game. Not being an official spare part is also strange, perhaps Audi feel that any failure in the pump warrants it's entire replacement, due to the high labour of just getting in there. I hope this helps someone, as the original poster also found it a maze of possible faults. Not helped by no recorded faults due to the purely mechanical nature of the stuck actuator on the solenoid. Thanks to Jason for all his suggestions, though his contributions have mostly been removed except where I quoted him. This is the only critical fault this car has had in my 6 years of ownership, and at 245,000 km, so I'm not complaining.

I got mine from here £179 with tool kit: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/183664404679?hash=item2ac34068c7:g:8UEAAOSwh9pa1bg0&amdata=enc%3AAQAIAAAA8MHx0i01eJUCR1eVvLVr5P3%2Ffbmxjuh7k2XW9lfIER2SAgk8QK8i77ELE%2FvFbRsZFgjLUIxl4LuniTuM8bNwnW%2FBMdl7p5ri%2BFRF3UJOa08EvQVgQORx71BodnEh0vrdXYtHbjug6lMwGsSO3QmcmhpDAyy%2Budhd3EbhxrXgPbq5clNEeOXg%2B%2FuL13IROEXl%2FknHKCGbDCIJp2OUROjOkESpJUO6QXvxRAvEY9c3YKVq7%2FUu3hAk7vXQW4UGXnR1LGjH0dDGIoT9DG8yoMWegaMrtNgpTNHLE0xju%2BDcEa7SDEmzsESZ9livNDGSPJpJfg%3D%3D|tkp%3ABFBMwrbI3_Rh Same seller does it at £165 no tool kit.