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Apologies for the gripe, but the forum has recently suffered from a spate of what can be termed ‘Post and Run’ new members, who seem to think it’s perfectly acceptable to post a plea for help, and simply not return to view the help given. In a more diluted form, help is offered, but is very rarely acknowledged even via. a simple press of the Like button, leave alone a posted Thank You. The last part of the gripe is that we frequently have to ask for additional information, and this extra detail often never materialises. Please remember, everyone who posts replies do so without payment, but it certainly does cost them in time - in terms of the Moderators and Admin back up - a lot of time. So a special plea to all on here who post needing help:- please be respectful enough to acknowledge any help given, rather than simply accept it as a no-cost, no time of yours, free advice service. It’s wearing thin folks, so if you want to retain this service, please respect and acknowledge its benefits. Thank you all for reading this, and above all, agreeing to adhere to the respect that is needed to be shown. Kind regards, On behalf of the Moderators. Please note:- This request is to all members, not just new ones.

Hello Captain Threaders Dont know of any offers regarding Audi Dashcams but I can 100 percent recommend a Blackvue two camera system and the company that installs them. I'm on my second Q8 and on both, for the first time in my motoring life and many many motor cars ( I'm 77 years of age by the way ) I made the decision to have a dashcam fitted to both. For my security and safety. I researched alot and it seems that the two high end cameras that are recommended by the various motor magazines are the Blackvue system and the Nextbase. They are both at the top of the dashcam available technology but I do believe you get what you pay for and as our cars are pretty expensive and valuable I decided to go for the duo system Blackvue backed up by a seperate Cellink battery. Both systems in both my cars were fitted and installed by TTW Installations situated in Nottingham. Now I realise thats a bit of a way to go seeing you are in West Yorkshire as it is for me being in Hampshire butif you value and love your car as I do I assure you its worth it. Small Company run by a husband and wife team who employ one other fitter. Just take a look at their website and see the type of vehicle they are working on. They do all sorts including top of the range tracker systems and speed warning systems. They are car nuts and look after your car and the installation is quite superb. All leads and wires hidden and the battery is either fitted hidden under a seat or in the boot. Nothing on show and the quality of the camera and lens and the playback is superb. I think it makes a perfect deterrent. Hope this is of interest. Frank

Hey Ahmei - I had to get RAC to tow our Q5 to the nearest Audit garage. Needed a full steering rack replacement which cost £1.4k . Took them 48 hrs to sort out at the garage. Unfortunate but don't think I had a choice as it wasn't related to the battery. All the best.

Noticed my rear light bar has started delaminating in half a dozen places no outside impact damage it’s coming from inside the unit Audi immediately offered to change this under warranty just a heads up to see if yours is ok as they cost around 1600 quid to buy IMG_8669.mov IMG_8669.mov IMG_8669.mov

Hi Raj, In terms of the gearbox, though Audi say it's a lifetime gearbox, there is actually no such thing. I've read that when asked what it means, Audi state that it means lifetime of the gearbox, not lifetime of the car itself. As such, I'm an advocate of servicing the DSG regardless of it supposedly being lifetime as Audi say. I personally aim to do it every 40,000 miles or 4 years (make sure to get the transmission fluid AND mechatronic fluid changed). You'll notice the gear changes are much much smoother. In terms of your shock absorber, I used KYB once and personally not a fan, though I've heard it's a decent brand from others. The ride was too bumpy for my liking. Do not buy from Audi unless you're happy to pay extremely inflated prices. I use AVS Car Parts (vwspares.co.uk) for my car parts and they supply OEM equipment. Give them a ring. You cannot go wrong with Sachs shock absorbers which are the ones that likely came on the car originally. Don't forget it's recommended to do both shocks so that the ride is consistent (also if 1 has gone, likely the other will be going soon).

Dear fellow members, It's about time I wrote to you all. We've said goodbye to the car and I write to say goodbye to you. I contacted a firm in Walsall specialising in left hand drive vehicles. I got the impression it was one man and a couple of sons. Anyway just as I looked forward to some time working on its kerb appeal, the man rang to announce their imminent visit to the Northwest. "Yes, come to us too", said I, and suddenly it was all over. We were left clutching a few hundred pounds, he left hoping to find a Spaniard needing a bargain in which to get home. Perhaps a prospective buyer was already identified (given the haste). Anyway, we're not expecting complaints: as you all know, an Audi of that vintage will just keep on going. However, I am going. Thanks, best wishes and goodbye to all who submitted comments and or advice, yours sincerely Peter Wight

South West Caves & Caverns Road Trip 🚗🕳️ This road trip takes you through some of the most incredible caves and caverns in South West England, from prehistoric sites to hidden coastal caves. Perfect for history lovers, adventure seekers, and geology enthusiasts! 📍 Clearwell Caves, Gloucestershire 🏞️⛏️ 📍 Cheddar Gorge & Caves, Somerset 🏔️🦴 📍 Wookey Hole Caves, Somerset 🧙‍♀️🕳️ 📍 Beer Quarry Caves, Dorset 🏰🪨 📍 Kent’s Cavern, Torquay 🦴🌍 📍 Carnglaze Caverns, Cornwall 🌊✨ 📍 Merlin’s Cave, Cornwall 🏰🔮 Total Distance: 🚗 Approx. 250 miles

Just thought I'd share this link for replacing the window regulator in an A6 C5 as it's the most helpful one I've found. Very clear instructions and tells you which Torx bits and rivets you'll need. The whole process took me about two hours start to finish and I was taking my time to ensure everything was correct. Hope this helps anyone contemplating the same repair. How To: Replacing AUDI C5 RS6 Window Regulator!

I've just replaced the CCM in my A6 and this is the best video I've found for reprogramming the key fobs if you're fortunate enough to have two of them. Very clear instructions and worked first time for both of my key fobs with no messing around. The reprogramming information starts at 9:00 but the rest of the video may be useful to anybody that needs to repair their key fob. https://youtu.be/RyNpeZUJtsc

My understanding is that they should operate on demand in any mode except efficiency.

Raj. Audi recommendations in respect of cambelt and water pump have changed over the years so it is not surprising you can not get consistent answers from dealers. Personally I stuck to the old suggestion of 70000 miles. Nobody suffered an engine failure by servicing it ahead of schedule. When it comes to the gearbox you are on your own. You are pushing more power through it and the rest of the transmission than normal, so you can not rely on normal service recommendations. Yet again, nobody suffered a gearbox failure by servicing it ahead of schedule.

I doubt it is an electrical or sensor fault because the electrical system is off when the car sags. It is more likely to be an air leak from the bag, valves, or pipe. I would spray or brush soapy water on all the components and watch for bubbles.

Sent it to ecu testing and think it was about £250 + vat

Hi,new here but 4 years a member of the A2OC.As you can see,I have a 1.4 petrol SE and recently acquired the red 1.6 fsi SE,currently Sorn-ed.Its been stood a while,only just got it on and off the trailer!Will be pestering people for advice on it soon,lol.

My pleasure. If it ain't broke, don't fix it (had to learn that the hard way). A service regen isn't risk free as there's been occasional stories of service regens melting the DPF. If the car is not causing issues, drive happily and worry free; let the ECU worry about the active regens as it should. Long distance driving will allow for passive regen.

2004 Audi A4 1.9 TDI Sport (B6) - £1500 Registered: May 2004 Previous Owners: 4 Current Owner: Since May 2013. Transmission: 6 Speed Manual Fuel: Diesel Colour: Metallic Blue Interior: Grey Leather/Suede. Mileage: 155’664 BHP: 130 MOT: 06/12/2025 Service History: Full service carried out by specialist 05/12/2024 (serviced yearly by Audi dealership or specialist). Timing Belt changed 08/12/2023. Tax: £240 Location: Wolverhampton/Birmingham Additional Details: Selling as will be getting a company car soon, still looks and drives great for its age, does an 80-mile round trip going down the motorway every few weeks with no problems. Comes with factory fitted 18” alloys (inc. spare), 2 keys, manuals, original and new service book, HPI clear and all MOT certificates and invoices since 2013, with full service carried every year since then (plus oil and filter changes in between at approx. 3000 miles during 2013 and 2018 when driven 10K+ miles a year). One minor incident impacted the front passenger side door, chose to replace door through insurance on 17/10/2016. Paintwork generally in good condition, some bubbling and a couple of spots of rust, no leaks or mechanical problems, and all electrics working, but aircon needs recharging and some minor issues as expected for a 21-year-old car as follows: Crack on the windscreen (has passed MOT’s) Rip on the driver’s seat Glovebox stuck (can open via the side) Airbag light stays on MOT advice notes: Nearside Front Tyre worn close to legal limit/worn on edge Front Sub-frame corroded but not seriously weakened Front Anti-roll bar linkage pin or bush worn but not resulting in excessive movement Rear Registration plate deteriorated but not likely to be misread Rear Sub-frame corroded but not seriously weakened Price reflects the above, but as those in the know can verify, this 1.9 TDI engine is very economical and an absolute workhorse, so still has plenty of life left in it!

Changed over from the winter wheels to the summer ones and decided I fancied an upgrade at the same time, managed to get my hands on a set of 2021 S-Line wheels which I love the look of. Makes the car look that little bit fresher and newer I think. I had black 17s on for winter, not a fan of black wheels usually but for winter they were sufficient. Comments welcome...

Added a TTRS Mk2 2009 to my Audi collection 🤩 plenty of smiles!

Whoever does that clearly values his wallet more than his life. I nominate him for a Darwin award.

Thank you Gerry, Would buyers please be aware that you are buying damaged tyres, and the forum recommends they are not used on the road. To do so would be at your own risk and a risk to other road users. Regards, Gareth.

Thank you Steve, your answer much appreciated. Not had the car long, I was had.....loads of problems and bad repairs! But I am getting through them, slowly.

Thanks for that Cliff. I feel its probably best left alone, I find it's rapid as it is & it would be a shame to do damage to a perfectly good engine.

Hi all, This thread was a life saver - had the same problem and was able to resolve it myself. STOP / START - Brake servo restricted requires the brake pressure booster sensor to be replaced. TIP: I had to use a little WD40 on the orange O ring for the sensor to push and clip in. I purchased mine from here: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/234156424190?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=uI6ymBN1QH-&sssrc=4429486&ssuid=LlyWfVm0QjS&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY Please see video for location on the Audi Q5 2019 20250328_134520.mp4

Ravi. That bag of silica gel has caused endless problems to many owners when it bursts. The crystals block the heater matrix and sometimes the thermostat leading to expensive replacements. Whether Audi have ceased fitting the bag I do not know so it would be worth enquiring before purchase. Do please let us know the answer.

I have 2012, 1.4 tfsi, in cold, damp wether, it too emits an alarming amount of vapour but only idle, No odour, no coolant loss. I was concerned the first winter this occurred but it cleared once warmer temperatures arrived. Same through this last winter but now we are experiencing above 15 degrees vapour has cleared. No loss of coolant with mine. I remember doing a google search when I first experienced it … seems to be pretty common.

You dont have to throw them out. Once you have picked up and fitted the replacements, bung em on eBay Or gumtree. Get some of the money back for what you spent on A leather interior. the seats you have look like “sports” seats. Possibly somebody is looking to upgrade to those

Hi you say the compression figures were low, as in how much lower than the figure quoted for ideal?, most oil pressure systems put on the light when the pressure drops to 4psi if it sinks any lower you will hear the big ends knocking, either way it wont do it any favours as Gareth said driving it like that, rather than lashing out on a new oil pump it will be better to drop the sump and remove the the caps on the crank one at a time and check that the big end shells are not scored or excessively worn if you do the first one and they are scored or the crank journal has scores dont bother with rest of them as you can guarantee the rest are the same or worse, in this case either get a refurbished engine or have your unit reconditioned with a new oil pump, personally I never use anything other than O.E. pumps and if you use reverse logic, if the original pump has managed 150k there is no reason why it wont do it again. Steve.

What’s the engine code? My understanding is these exhaust temp sensors are utter pain. Access may be difficult, plus they are usually difficult to remove and sometimes need drilled out. Not sure what OBD scanner you’re using, but you need to get access to VCDS or Autel to check, then you can run live data. it might even be exhaust pressure sender. Check against your engine code. https://www.lllparts.co.uk/catalogs/audi/RDW/A3/646/2/253/253062

Hello James, Warning for low coolant level rather than coolant temperature?? If so, what you have found is most likely the culprit, but that is a coolant level sensor and not a coolant temperature sensor. Kind regards, Gareth.

Spartacus I had thought about that fuel pump but couldn’t work out why it would cut the fuel for a split second. I think it would have to stop for a period of time before the engine would notice it due to the high pressure pump. However definitely worth checking out.

Check exhaust clamps, and flexi (if one is fitted) these can corrode and what you’re smelling is fumes from engine bay. Also auxilliary drive belt, a seized clutch drive pulley, etc.

Thank you for your advice/reply. 👍👍

Thanks for all the advice.

Hi, £30 for pick up in Norwich area. Otherwise plus shipment costs.

That's good to know

Thanks for that.

Check this thread. Do not drive it till it's fixed! As you can do more damage and end up with a more expensive repair.

Just an update. I successfully changed the upper and lower seals on the fuel injection pump. It is tricky getting the adjuster back in the hole on the shaft, but it finally went in. Pump was marked to enable correct alignment and to hopefully maintain correct quantity adjustment. Good instructional video on ytube about priming pump after and replacing seals. So back together and restarted. Only problem is a rough idle at 800 tickover. Unsure if air in lines. I would like to crack fuel lines to expel any air but they are welded solid at the moment. Have left soaking in wd40. Any advice on moving the nuts appreciated.

Thanks to all for the advice, all issues now resolved by replacing the right front level sensor!

Wheel will physically fit but you'll need the clock spring from the donor car, air bag and wiring.

Hi all, I know this is an older thread but just looking for some advice. I have a 2010 Audi A3 and I have the same flashing coil light. The error code on my basic reader is P00AF and also P2563 "turbocharger boost control position sensor A circuit". From what I can gather, I suspect I may have the same problem as the original author of the thread. I have it booked in with a VAG specialist this week. Any tips on how not to be fobbed off and ideas on costs would be much appreciated.

Hi sorry the filter you are showing is an OIL FILTER NOT A FUEL filter.

I got it permanently decoded from a car with this fault!

I fully agree with Syed that no intervention is needed under normal driving usage.

Difficult to tell, ideally you want some sort of engine clean to determine what's going on. Oil sweat just now could be related to earlier issue with EGR or oil cooler that was subsequently fixed. Any mention of this in the history? Find someone with VCDS to run a scan. Which 3.0 litre model TDI, the 218bhp (S tronic box) or 272bhp (Tiptronic)? If S tronic, then the gearbox oil is due every 38k miles. Tiptronic although Audi will say is sealed for life, can be serviced at 60-80k miles as ZF have a maintenance kit. If you do buy it, get the engine degreased, steam cleaned and check again. That oil sweat shouldn't continue. For longevity on these engines, get into habit of changing oil every 5k miles. If engine tray is dry - I wouldn't worry unnecessarily, but it would be better if the engine and sump were bone dry. If dealer (probably not Audi on a 2017 model), then see where you stand in terms of supported warranty. Norway will have their own rules to protect consumers. In UK you have up to 30 days.

Faulty sensor would stop the gauge from working, but wouldn't stop hot air coming through the vents.

Could be something as simple as replacing the coolant temperature sensor. That's what I would change first before looking too deeply.

Siyab. Watch this: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IJAScg6JrYI

Just a update it’s finally running like a dream again ended up being the ecu not sure why garage’s can’t fix problems these days but if your car has this problem before spending thousands replacing all the parts get the ecu checked out.

Heres a cool part I found on another page. It's a washer fluid tank cap that doubles as a funnel to prevent washer fluid spills. It's an OE part on some Skodas and fits right on. Just enough clearance to turn and open. Part number 000096706. Found mine on ebay for £9.