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Hello Captain Threaders Dont know of any offers regarding Audi Dashcams but I can 100 percent recommend a Blackvue two camera system and the company that installs them. I'm on my second Q8 and on both, for the first time in my motoring life and many many motor cars ( I'm 77 years of age by the way ) I made the decision to have a dashcam fitted to both. For my security and safety. I researched alot and it seems that the two high end cameras that are recommended by the various motor magazines are the Blackvue system and the Nextbase. They are both at the top of the dashcam available technology but I do believe you get what you pay for and as our cars are pretty expensive and valuable I decided to go for the duo system Blackvue backed up by a seperate Cellink battery. Both systems in both my cars were fitted and installed by TTW Installations situated in Nottingham. Now I realise thats a bit of a way to go seeing you are in West Yorkshire as it is for me being in Hampshire butif you value and love your car as I do I assure you its worth it. Small Company run by a husband and wife team who employ one other fitter. Just take a look at their website and see the type of vehicle they are working on. They do all sorts including top of the range tracker systems and speed warning systems. They are car nuts and look after your car and the installation is quite superb. All leads and wires hidden and the battery is either fitted hidden under a seat or in the boot. Nothing on show and the quality of the camera and lens and the playback is superb. I think it makes a perfect deterrent. Hope this is of interest. Frank

Apologies for the gripe, but the forum has recently suffered from a spate of what can be termed ‘Post and Run’ new members, who seem to think it’s perfectly acceptable to post a plea for help, and simply not return to view the help given. In a more diluted form, help is offered, but is very rarely acknowledged even via. a simple press of the Like button, leave alone a posted Thank You. The last part of the gripe is that we frequently have to ask for additional information, and this extra detail often never materialises. Please remember, everyone who posts replies do so without payment, but it certainly does cost them in time - in terms of the Moderators and Admin back up - a lot of time. So a special plea to all on here who post needing help:- please be respectful enough to acknowledge any help given, rather than simply accept it as a no-cost, no time of yours, free advice service. It’s wearing thin folks, so if you want to retain this service, please respect and acknowledge its benefits. Thank you all for reading this, and above all, agreeing to adhere to the respect that is needed to be shown. Kind regards, On behalf of the Moderators. Please note:- This request is to all members, not just new ones.

Evening folks, so might have made some progress tonight. On the drive home I was monitoring and recording live data for various sensors. My wife was in charge of pressing the “flag” button if the fault happened. This time it did happen and sure enough poised like coiled spring my wife hit the flag button. When I played the recording back, at the point that was flagged there was a dip in both the cam and the crank sensor readings! So I nudged the readings frame by frame until I got the frame before the hesitation the frame at it and the frame after. Luckily I was also monitoring crankshaft signal status as on the frame before and after the hesitation it’s reading is GAP FOUND but at the point of the hesitation it’s reading is WAITING GAP. I’m not going to get over excited for now. However, at least that gives me a starting point. I’ll remove the sensor and check the ring and flywheel condition as best as I can and then I’ll order a genuine sensor from Audi. I’ll run the car for a week or so and then I’ll come back with an update. I’d say this rules out a fuel issue, if it was lack of fuel I would still expect it to see the gap for the crank sensor. The only other possibility I can think of is that something is switching the ignition off for a split second but how unlucky would I have to be for that? (I do have a lot of bad luck to be fair). My only slight worry is that it’s visible on the graph for the cam, in my head I can make arguments as to why it would and why I don’t think it should be visible on both graphs. But let’s start with the crank sensor and take it from there. very sorry for the extremely long post, I’m not on many forums, I think they are a great source of information and I’m trying to be as informative as possible. wish me luck 🤞 Davie 👍

Fingers crossed it stays fixed 🙂

I would just like to ask. Why? The A6 Avant has quite a low profile and wide stance already. I am probably "old Skool" but I think some of these modifications ask the chassis and axles to do things that they were not originally designed for, and could cause premature failures of some components.

Hi I did get it fixed but I never got the chance to sell it as it rolled off of my local garage forecourt into the brick wall across the road, electro mechanical handbrake failure caused by a voltage drop on the battery which is another favourite trick of the cars from 2014-2017, no the price you have been quoted is not normal as I never paid more than £1600 for the cooler unit to be replaced bearing in mind you could only get the parts from Audi at around £700, now you can get aftermarket parts around £450, my advice would be to get the adblue mapped out and then the cooler fixed as cheaply as possible then get rid of it ASAP, beautifully made car body wise and a joy to drive BUT parts are ruinous price wise and as mine was used as a cab frequent, got a Passat estate now not as glamorous but is as nice to drive and any parts are about a third of the price. Steve.

Looks like it’s reset itself so all good 🤞

Well, 2 months later and it has decided to just start working again... without me doing a thing! With the manual control to put it up, I've greased the hinges and pivots, so wondering if it had somewhat seized for a while, and then unstuck itself...

Changed over from the winter wheels to the summer ones and decided I fancied an upgrade at the same time, managed to get my hands on a set of 2021 S-Line wheels which I love the look of. Makes the car look that little bit fresher and newer I think. I had black 17s on for winter, not a fan of black wheels usually but for winter they were sufficient. Comments welcome...

Looking good Mr.G still rocking my winter wheels, think I’ll be keeping them on 🤔😂

Added a TTRS Mk2 2009 to my Audi collection 🤩 plenty of smiles!

I took the plunge and added a 2009 TTRS to my Audi collection! It needs a few bits of trim and new vents and some other bits and bobs but it’s pretty good condition and goes like a rocket

Whoever does that clearly values his wallet more than his life. I nominate him for a Darwin award.

Bear in mind that remapping might be counted as a modification as far as your insurer is concerned, particularly if the power is increased, so unless you declare the modification the policy may be invalid.

Thank you Gerry, Would buyers please be aware that you are buying damaged tyres, and the forum recommends they are not used on the road. To do so would be at your own risk and a risk to other road users. Regards, Gareth.

Hi your headlights are HID I think you will find that they are fitted with D5S bulbs and for reasons only known only to type approval in Germany they do not qualify for washers even though they throw out an equivalent amount of light to the old D3S equipped units, which needed washers, D5S units use a lot less voltage than D3S/D1S bulbs therefore are considered a greener alternative as they extend battery/alternator life, also D5S will not burn the reflector bowls unlike the above mentioned and they also have an integral ballast unit built in to the bulb housing so no more guessing if its the bulb or the separate ballast that was fitted to D3S/D1S. Steve.

Thank you Steve, your answer much appreciated. Not had the car long, I was had.....loads of problems and bad repairs! But I am getting through them, slowly.

If it is chain rattle then it’s linked to long service intervals potentially at the start if the car’s life. The oil viscosity and lubrication properties are diminished by 8k miles, never mind 18k miles. 5w30 will come out like water when draining. What is history of servicing please? Before committing to any repair, you might want to speak to VAG Technic (Dudley) or Decimal Tenths (Newcastle) first. They regularly drop engines and repair tappets (worn needle bearings), stretched chains or slap (worn chain sprockets or broken plastic guides). The figure of £2.2k seems cheap, this is normally double given labour and genuine parts cost. First thing to do would be to drop oil and see if any contaminants. They also check oil filter for any metal filings or swarf. If that all checks out they can remove rocker covers to view camshafts. You can possibly see camshaft wear with endoscope, but only partial view, or even get a stethoscope to the back to listen to see if that reveals more. Chains are meant to be for life of car, but it’s all down to service history and use unfortunately.

Thanks for that Cliff. I feel its probably best left alone, I find it's rapid as it is & it would be a shame to do damage to a perfectly good engine.

I agree with your logic that a temperature sensor fault is the likely cause of the problem, probably the ambient or external sensor. Unfortunately I have no idea where it is.

Hi all, This thread was a life saver - had the same problem and was able to resolve it myself. STOP / START - Brake servo restricted requires the brake pressure booster sensor to be replaced. TIP: I had to use a little WD40 on the orange O ring for the sensor to push and clip in. I purchased mine from here: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/234156424190?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=uI6ymBN1QH-&sssrc=4429486&ssuid=LlyWfVm0QjS&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY Please see video for location on the Audi Q5 2019 20250328_134520.mp4

Hi I know some aftermarket tanks are sold with no bag which is the selling point, it depends on the shape of the tank if its round you can't remove it as it sits behind a second skin inside the tank, if its square you can fish it out with a pair of extra long needle nosed pliers. Steve.

So had mine looked at passed one lot of tests but failed a chemical test, suspected Egr cooler and or inlet manifold cooler, worst case cracked head or head gasket. Issue is it’ll cost an arm and leg to find out as it’s a case of take it all apart and see what’s there after unbolting bits, was willing to throw some money at it if it solved the issue once and for all but there’s no guarantees so will keep it for a short while as it’s behaving right now (touch wood) and then look at a new motor as it’s at 97k and had it 7 years. Would have been happy to keep it going as I still get compliments on the paintwork regularly and imo still one of the prettiest cars on the road.

Hi I agree with Steve. Wheel spacers put undue load on the axle bearings, and you would probably have to declare them to your insurance company as well.

there’s 267000km on it, bought the car from a garage last august, had it 4 days and the car went into limp mode, we have an obd11 and plugged it in when this happened and it was showing up as the crankshaft sensor, garage let us take the car to audi to investigate and they couldn’t find a fault with the crankshaft sensor. The garage i got it from changed out the sensor but this wasn’t the underlying issue as the car was still in limp mode, they found an issue with the ECU and got a reconditioned ECU and also done the timing chain prior to this as they weren’t sure if it was an issue and they had the engine out already to replace the crankshaft sensor. the car was returned to me mid december with no issues. Never went into limp mode again and no noises or hard starts or anything up until i parked it nearly 2 weeks ago now and it wouldn’t start. Service wise it had just had a full service prior to me buying it but the garage didn’t have the service book so i can’t say what the regime was like prior to me getting it unfortunately. The ECU is currently out being tested to ensure it’s not that causing any issues so once that’s back in i’ll get the scan rerun next week and get the results off my mechanic, i do remember him saying when he scanned it first when it came in it was throwing up a lot of low voltage faults as well as the stabilisation programme control on the dash. He had the new starter in and ready to go and the battery all charged up and went to turn on the car and again it wouldn’t crank which left him baffled because the starter had the short circuit internally and that’s when he tried manually turning the engine but again no luck. He hasn’t taken out the injectors or looked further into it as he’s not sure where he could even start with it and recommended taking it to an audi specialist to see if they could help further with them being more familiar with the car and its engine.

Welcome Barry, you have just won the prize for the shortest introductory post from a newcomer. We do not charge by the word! Kind regards, Gareth.

Ravi. That bag of silica gel has caused endless problems to many owners when it bursts. The crystals block the heater matrix and sometimes the thermostat leading to expensive replacements. Whether Audi have ceased fitting the bag I do not know so it would be worth enquiring before purchase. Do please let us know the answer.

Hey Ahmei - I had to get RAC to tow our Q5 to the nearest Audit garage. Needed a full steering rack replacement which cost £1.4k . Took them 48 hrs to sort out at the garage. Unfortunate but don't think I had a choice as it wasn't related to the battery. All the best.

Cheeky quick photo session on the way to work ...

£250 Chips Away will sort the Aluminium corrosion - no issues I love this car - it drives superbly - I went to Paris and back from West Midlands 2x weeks after I bought it and it was supreme - quiet/hugely quick and refined and returned 45mpg over circa 900 miles

Siyab. Watch this: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IJAScg6JrYI

I'm assuming that you're talking saloon here? If not, I have the Avant and I seriously wouldn't worry about the boot space, the main difference is that the boot floor is about an inch or so higher than the non-hybrid version which does cause a small lip but nothing to worry about it's still massive, you just lose a bit of headroom. The rear seats also don't fold flat with the boot and have a similar lip between the seat back and the boot floor. I'd take some pics but it's currently stacked full of PA equipment! 😆 If you are talking saloon, then all of the above is of no help whatsoever (but might help others) & hopefully someone else can answer your query.

Mine does this from time to time. It seems to me this is relative to a safety system not a mechanical issue. The handle of the door releases the latch but not the lock. So on pulling the latch is released but the lock doesn’t. if you pull the lever in less of a rush I find myself not having to pull twice. you can try some self diagnosis. fault find 1: step 1 put the car in park and hand break applied. step 2 open the door if the car does not release the lock on first pull. There potentially is a fault. Fault find 2: step 1 apply brake pedal, put vehicle into drive/neutral. step 2 open the door, if the car does not immediately open on 1st pull, check if the car is in park, and handbrake applied if so pull again if it releases this means the car prevented you from leaving whilst in drive and changed, in which during that time ensured you remained in the vehicle until it had prevented the car from moving. if it did not/did go into park and handbrake applied but won’t open it means there is a fault requiring further diagnosis.

I got mine from here £179 with tool kit: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/183664404679?hash=item2ac34068c7:g:8UEAAOSwh9pa1bg0&amdata=enc%3AAQAIAAAA8MHx0i01eJUCR1eVvLVr5P3%2Ffbmxjuh7k2XW9lfIER2SAgk8QK8i77ELE%2FvFbRsZFgjLUIxl4LuniTuM8bNwnW%2FBMdl7p5ri%2BFRF3UJOa08EvQVgQORx71BodnEh0vrdXYtHbjug6lMwGsSO3QmcmhpDAyy%2Budhd3EbhxrXgPbq5clNEeOXg%2B%2FuL13IROEXl%2FknHKCGbDCIJp2OUROjOkESpJUO6QXvxRAvEY9c3YKVq7%2FUu3hAk7vXQW4UGXnR1LGjH0dDGIoT9DG8yoMWegaMrtNgpTNHLE0xju%2BDcEa7SDEmzsESZ9livNDGSPJpJfg%3D%3D|tkp%3ABFBMwrbI3_Rh Same seller does it at £165 no tool kit.