leenowell

Thanks. Tried obd11 and looks like my adapter isn't compatible as it won't connect. Carista for my car seems to only do what car scanner ( my current app) can do. I have Android any other suggestions? The EPC and ESP lights come on and trying find codes to suggest which sensor is goosed

Hi All I have some dashboard warning lights come on. I have a Bluetooth adapter for the OBDC port and car scanner app on my phone. Trouble is it doesn't seem to display the codes. Anyone recommend a better bit of software to read all the codes? Lights are the EPC and the stability control light. Thanks Lee

Hi, Quick update. With the engine running,and climate at lo, if manually turn the large fan it works for a little while and then stops. Turn manually again and it starts again. With ignition on but engine off it doesn't work. I thought the smaller one also did this but seems to have stopped altogether now,

Hi All, Now I have solved the initial issue, when stationary for a period of time, the car over heats (otherwise fine). The radiator fans don't seem to come on so assuming for the moment that is the issue. Tests so far.... 1. I have read online that they are also used for the AC so have put the climate control to lo. In car blowers come on but the ones on the radiator do not 2. Fans can be moved manually so aren't stuck 3. Found a 5a fuse (number 4) in the fuse box which says it is for the radiator fans. Fuse is fine, gave the terminals a clean (although not really dirty), with the fuse pulled out I measure 12v across the fuse holder I took the fuse out without ignition and it drops slightly when I put the ignition on. After a bit of googling I found 1. Seems like a failed fan control unit is common although not a cheap (or easy - discussions around cutting/ soldering wires) gamble. Anyone know of a way to get greater indication whether this is the source of the issue. 2. There appears to be a relay/ fuse elsewhere although unclear where. I have read a 60a fuse somewhere under the dash? Anyone know where these are? Also how can i test the relay? I have a multimeter for the fuse. Any other trouble shooting I can try? thanks in advance Lee.

Will take a look thanks. Will try and get a photo to see if we can identify which one it is 🙂

Hi All Looks like this is the pipe. https://www.autodoc.co.uk/topran/8878064 It says it an intake manifold pipe. There is a short rubber hose connected to the bottom left of the diagram which is split. Will this have a material impact? thanks Lee.

Thanks very much Dan. I have a 1.8T petrol engine.

Hi all I have a 2004 A4 1.8T and with help from this forum have started to get it working properly again. When I was changing the coolant temperature sensor I noticed a hose was split a d am struggling to identify what it is. On the left of the engine are 2 metal pipes one on top of the other running from front to back. The split hose is attached to the front of the lower one. Anyone know what this is connected to and impact of not changing it? Also, have been trying to find an annotated picture of the engine to show what everything is but can't seem to find one. Anyone know of a good source? Thanks in advance Lee.

Thanks for the reply Dan. I have been trying to find a diagram of the engine to know which ones are the breather pipes but no joy so far. The ones I cleaned earlier are the back of the engine connected to a back circular pot looking thing. I think the pot has something to do with pressure release but not sure what. If the pipes were clogged maybe this is too? After more Googling I saw a mention of a pcv which seems to be near the dip stick somewhere but couldn't find any good instructions as to where it is and how to remove / clean it.

Hi All, I have an issue with my car where oil seems to be squirting out of the dip stick holder (or at least in that vicinity). I was changing the temperature sensor and the "J" shaped pipe at the back of the engine I had to remove had a load of crud in it. I suspect this is a "breather pipe" from the top of the engine and was thinking that maybe another pipe is fully blocked and is causing the oil to squirt out of the dip stick when under pressure. Is this plausible? Anyone have any ideas which pipes could be blocked or what could cause this? thanks in advance Lee.

Thanks very much both. I have changed the coolant temperature sensor and looks like it has solved the problem. Temp gauge goes up steadily in line with the OBD value and stays at 90. OBD registers temp once hot bouncing around the 105 to 113 mark. Assume this is normal? I'm sure saw somewhere that the ECU assumes up to 110 as normal and registers the gauge at 90. Only other things to add 1. When I looked at the OBD error values after fitting it a new error saying the coolant temperature senor had a high voltage and the known engine mixture error. After a while I thought I would try to clear the errors via the OBD app and they both had disappeared. 2. Looks like the oil leak it squirting out of the dip stick top. I noticed that some of the pipes I had to remove to get to the sensor had a load of crud in them (not fully sealed but plenty there). So, I am thinking my oil issue is a breather pipe issue - will raise another thread on that. Thanks all... glad I didn;t have to replace the thermostat as that seemed a fair bit more involved.

Thanks very much Gareth for getting back to me. Is the coolant temperature sender only used for the gauge and there is another one for the computer? I did a quick google and it looks like it is at the back of the engine. Curiously, I have another issue where there seems to be an oil leak in that rough area and and is squirting oil around the place (there is a complicated set of small rubber pipes which seem to be covered in oil). I wonder if this is related? thanks Lee.

Hi All., I am having overheating issues and am hoping you will be able to help me as we are now car-less 😞 Test Starting the car from cold, leaving it idle I tested the temp gauge readings against the coolant temp via OBD with the following results. After approx 2 mins temp gauge 90 - OBD around 30 During next approx 15 mins, temp gauge stays at 90 and OBD gradually rises to around 80 Temp gauge starts to rise beyond 90 and OBD also rises. Temp gauge gets to 3/4 and OBD hits 88 - red coolant warning comes on Temp gauge continues to rise but OBD hovers between 88 and 90 (I only left it for a minute or so just in case). Other things of note 1. At the end of the test I felt the hoses. Rad top hose is hot, the bottom hoses and those going in to the thermostat are cold 2. I have been having an issue with a slight leak where I can't find where it is (around 100ml loss over a few days) this seems to cause air in the system as the heater goes cold and bleeding the heater / the bolt on top of engine fixes it. 3. The temp gauge behaviour is also consistent with driving the car (I haven't done a OBD test whilst driving) 4. the cooling fans on the radiator does not get activated The test above to me would indicate a temp sensor issue (assuming the temp gauge and the computer are using different ones) but the hose temp issue would seem to indicate thermostat issue. Anyone have any idea whats going on? Thanks in advance for your help Lee.

Thanks for the reply. How did you attach the hose pipe to the heater core to do the flushing? Also, any idea where he out is hand to find the hose had fallen off? Wonder if this is also part of my problem as putting it on windscreen demist doesn't blow that much air Thanks Lee

Hi I have the same issue in my 2004 A4. I noticed mine has been losing water (not sure where from) and when I looked at it at the weekend there was a load of air trapped (I assume I had let the level drop too low or maybe wherever the leak is it is suckign in air or something). My fix was to bleed the system at the heater matrix. Assuming yours is the same, the top pipe is the return pipe (from the heater matrix) and has a tiny hole in it between the clip and the end. All you need to do is take the clip off and slide the hose back until the air (or water or both) comes out of the tiny hole. You don't pull the hose fully off. For me this restored heat but it could be hotter so will flush it this weekend. If this doesn't help you could take the same hose out and see whether water is being pumped through the matrix. Let me know how it goes