gigglebug

Good afternoon all I have replaced the lock in the drivers side of my car and now need to do the front passenger side as well. There seems to be two locks that show as fitting my car, as per title, so I was wondering if anyone on here could tell me a) what the difference is between the two if any and; b) which would definitely be the correct one for my 2009 sportback. Many thanks Ross

Simple is always cheaper when you are paying someone to do the work too! 😀

Well that was simple!! Turns out that the lead into the pump wasn't attached. I know the front bumper has had a bit of touch up at some point so it must have been unplugged at this point and forgotten about.

Good morning all One of my rear interior lights is not responding to the either the central locking being activated or the doors being opened/closed, all the others work fine. It still works when being used manually so it obviously has power to it and if set permanently to the 'on' position will turn on/off with the central locking but this obviously means that it would be on whilst driving. The door on it's side registers as being open on the display so I'm not sure what the problem could be? I am having the control unit in the drivers door replaced at the beginning of next month as there have been a few occasions of the drivers door not unlocking with the central locking, is this likely to be effecting a single light at the same time? There are plenty of examples online of different/all interior lights failing but none appear to be exactly the same situation as mine so any ideas would be welcome. Regards Ross

Have you ever heard of the Ackerman geometry effecting cars and making the tyres skip whilst turning? It can produce both vibration and knocking noises. Long shot but it might be worth a quick Google search, it appears to effect a great many different cars nowadays due to ever wider tyres.

Hello Cliff I think you must have misread, the latch is all metal in construction. The plastic fittings I refer to are on the inside of the lid and are what the latch locates into. These can be seen in picture 12 in the listing and are on the outside of the arms. I would also point out that if you look at photograph 10 and 11 in the listing you can see that the little hook, in the middle between the holes for the arms, that the spring locates onto is also missing/snapped off so that in picture 12 the vendor has obviously had to use a screw and some silicon gel to replace it. Mine was thankfully present so I didn't have to improvise a repair in the same fashion. Hope this clears it up for you. Regards

The part has been delivered and fitted and on the whole it's a very good peice of kit. It was delivered in a modest Jiffy bag with a peice of polystyrene to protect the arms which although was adequate on this occasion might not be enough every time. Even this time the polystyrene showed signs of compression and breaking. But all good. It's a very nicely engineered little component. Fitting wasn't as easy as I'd have hoped. I followed one of the many videos which show the lid being dismantled to fit new catches and all I can say is that it takes a whole lot of force to separate the Base from the top pad as they are bonded together in two places. Once apart though it is easy to gain access to the area involved. The second problem encountered is due to the fact that because the new part is such a good fit it was impossible to get the pins to locate into the holes that they sit in. There just isn't enough give in either the arms or the fitting to allow it to be just wiggled in unfortunately. I ended up breaking one of the fittings whilst trying to prise it open which at first was a worry but actually turned out to be the best thing to have happened. As it's a bendy type of plastic and not the sort to shatter and break off I was able to open it up to get the new catch fitted and then close it again to its original position. A spot of superglue has sealed it up for good again. All back together and in the car and it works perfectly. It looks good (for now) and complements the other touches of aluminium around the cabin. I can't see it, or the fittings that it locates into ever failing to be honest, the only thing that might eventually go is the spring but we will see. The only thing I would say is that because it is just bare metal, and a soft one, I've noticed that it already has a very small mark on it which I assume my missus has done. I'm not expecting it to stay perfect for long that's for sure. All in all though it's a very good little fix and I don't see it having to be re-addressed any time soon. I actually expect that more likely I'll be replacing it for looking tatty long before it ever needs to be replaced for breaking, but then I am a fussy bugger! Hope this helps anyone thinking of doing the same, I certainly don't regret it at this early stage. Regards all.

Should of stated that it is the 2.0T FSI unit.

Afternoon all Can anyone tell me why there is an open port in my engine bay? It is the part sticking out at right angles to the pipe that is covered in a wrap in the pictures, just where the knick is in the foam. I've tried to Google it but can't find anything other than a poor quality photo which appears to show the same. I take it is normal for this port and I'm not missing anything? Cheers all.

Just tried the double tap method and still nothing. Do you think MOT testers allow these to slip through if they don't work? The car only had its MOT done at the end of last month.

Mine just don't work no matter what I do. Lights on, multiple long washes and nothing. Hopefully it's the pump or a relay, relatively cheap fixes.

Whaaa! Turns out I do have the washers and they are non functional. I know a lot of folks would say leave them be as they are more trouble than they are worth but I'm too fussy to have a non functional feature. I've checked the fuse, that's ok. The water level in the bottle drops then returns when I manually pull out the washers and let go so there doesn't appear to be any leaks. Next port of call is the pump which I will order and replace as they aren't overly expensive. My only question regarding these are do I need the single outlet pump as below or do I require the twin outlet pump? Everything suggests that it is the single outlet but want to be sure before pushing the button on one. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/VDO-246-086-001-007C-HEADLIGHT-WASHER-CENTRIFUGAL-PUMP-MONO-12V-AUDI-BMW-SALE/171819683215?epid=1016871039&hash=item2801404d8f:g:EogAAOSweW5VdY9m-AUDI-BMW-SALE/171819683215?epid=1016871039&hash=item2801404d8f:g:EogAAOSweW5VdY9

Ordered yesterday after seller confirmed that it would fit. I'll update on the service and component when I get it.

It doesn't look like it's shown as an individual item on the diagram but I'm under the impression that Audi don't provide the catch on it's own for the A3 and you have to buy the whole lid which for me would be over £100, it's still £80 odd if you have a cloth interior. The catches also appear to have a fairly high failure rate so even if you replaced the whole thing you would face the possibility of it breaking off again at some point in the future. If this aluminium one fits and works it should outlast the car hopefully.

It's definitely something I'm willing to try and find out. I've messaged the seller to see if he/she can confirm that it is likely to fit. Hopefully it will as I don't really fancy paying £100 odd pounds to replace the whole lid. I'll keep the thread up to date as I go.