James

Hi Bev, Usually the only reason the sound of an engine can change after a cambelt change is if the timing is ever so slightly off. Not enough to cause a failure, but enough to make a slight change in noise. That would be my guess anyway....

Hi Karen, Also you could ask to drive another A3. Surely they should have no problem in demonstrating this if it's normal?!

I would say that's unlikely in such a new vehicle

Personally if it's not dipping below 3/4 I wouldn't worry about it. You're doing the right thing by checking it manually every now and again anyway. If you find it drops below half way then just top it back up again. If you're on long life service intervals the long life oil is designed to burn off a little bit in between services anyway to keep the oil fresh.

Jake, take a look at AMD Essex who are main distributors for Milltek: http://www.amdtuning.com/products.variant.cfm?variantid=30 Their site has prices on too.

That's bad look considering you only owned the car since last Friday! I'm assuming a private sale and no dealer to fall back on? Milltek do make a quality system. What is the price like for this system as opposed to the OEM one? What's your plan for the cats come MOT time?

Nothing wrong with standing out from the crowd a little. There's plenty of A3's out there these days, so it's always nice to make yours turn heads just a little B)

To me it sounds like the temperature sensor. It could be that it's on the way out and is causing the car to think it's hot when it is not. I'm not exactly sure on the price but I don't seem to recall them being that expensive so may be worth a try!

Yep I can imagine if I drove one I'd fall in love (and the dealers know this!)

Hi Dave, Welcome to the club! :) Sounds like a nice car, what sort of styling bits are you looking for?

Hi Paul, welcome to the club! Looking forward to seeing your Audio build! B)

Has it always done this? My first guess would be something like a faulty fan controller?

Will you be considering the RS3 if you like it (which of course you will ;))? I guess that will impact your per month saving vs the 1.4....

I haven't tried that type of diagnostic tool unfortunately but I assume it's meant to work with Audi? Have you checked the ignition is on when you are using it? At least you know your sensors themselves are OK now, although I guess that would have been an easy solution!

Hi David, welcome to the club. I believe it is indeed a "mini sim" which is actually the correct name for what most us would refer to as a "standard sim" not micro or nano.

I think the dashes are part of the resetting procedure - see the following: Here's the routine to get rid of the INSP or OIL blinkers! It uses the 2 buttons on the instrument cluster (the speedo/clock/tacho), they are numbered as under (also see attached pic): 1. Clock adjustment button 2. Trip odometer reset button 3. Trip odometer display The routine is as under: 1. Switch ignition off 2. Press and hold down reset button for trip odometer (2) in instrument cluster 3. Switch ignition on while button is pressed down. "Service OIL" appears in the display of the trip odometer (3) 4. Release button 5. Pull setting knob for time (1) in instrument cluster until "Service OIL" indication is reset. "- - -" appears in display (3). 6. Press reset button for trip odometer (2) again, to advance to next service event. 7. Release button. 8. "Service INSP" appears in display (3). 9. Pull setting knob for time -1- until "Service INSP" indication is reset. 10. "- - -" appears in display (3). 11. Switch ignition off.

Hi Tim welcome, sounds like you've picked yourself up a nice motor! :) Pop some photos up for us when you get a few minutes!

Yep, with regards to the warning lights plugging in for diagnostics should pull up an error code hopefully. Normally the dynamic steering light simply indicated a fault with the steering system which is a bit vague. With regards to the blind, I believe they are one complete unit. However, I have heard storied of guys gently prying them up whilst someone presses the button and then greasing them as sometimes a clicking will indicate there is power to the motor but something is stuck. Let us know how you get on

Hi Tony, welcome to the club :) ebay is usually a good bet for second hand panels/light units. Not sure if these are correct but a quick search brought these up: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/1996-2003-Audi-A6-rear-bumper-in-blue-green-/201326581233?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item2edfffd5f1 http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Audi-A6-4A-C4-100-4A-C4-Hella-Outer-Rear-Lamp-Light-Cluster-Near-Left-Side-/400914174116?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&fits=Car+Make%3AAudi%7CModel%3AA6%7CCars+Year%3A1996&hash=item5d5858d0a4 Good luck with the search!

First thing I would check would be the brake light switch (located below the pivot of the brake pedal) as these are relatively cheap and easy to replace.

I can imagine they are rather pricey! :( That's the only problem with all this modern technology, it's when things start to go wrong. I can only imagine what it will be like when people are buying today's crop of modern cars second hand at 10 years old or so...

Hi Dave, welcome to the club! Hmmm sounds like quite a difficult one to diagnose tbh. I have heard of various people reporting issues like this (not with the S1 though) only to be told it's normal for a quattro system. My advice would be as you're under warranty to pop into your local Audi dealer and see if you can borrow a technician for 5 mins to demonstrate the fault. This tends to be a lot more effective than just handing the car over and hoping they can replicate it! Keep us updated :)

Hi Gary, Welcome back to Audi :) Let us know how you get on if you do test the new RS3. I must say it looks very nice!

There was a known issue with DRL controllers on early Q5 models but I believe this was rectified by 2011 so I doubt it would be this but you never know. Most of these cases were resolved with a replacement unit unfortunately, which outside of warranty I expect would be very expensive. Not sure if Audi would offer any goodwill on this but may be worth an ask! I would check the usual things such as fuses/connections first before taking it into Audi though. Let us know how you get on and if you figure out the problem.

If it's not showing any fault codes then it sounds like a lose connection. Usually VAGCOM would show up an error if a particular sensor was at fault, so it would be a case of following the wires/checking plugs to identify a problem. Also, may be worth a shot in switching the ignition on (without the engine running) and putting the car in reverse. You can then put your ear against each sensor and you should hear a faint clicking noise. If one doesn't click then it is often that sensor that is faulty.