56Doc

I agree with Steve, one of the bags has probably gone. best to get it sorted asap as the pump will keep trying to push air into that side and it’s simply not designed or able to run for long periods, it will fail in fairly short order (been there, done that!😔), it takes the 40A Relay with it too. ‘oem’ parts are made by non Audi specialist manufacturers/suppliers, eg, air pump is same as used by Mercedes, RR, Range Rover, Bentley, etc. so I bought a pump from the US manufacturer for £300 instead of £1300 from Audi. single Audi airbags arent too bad, but if it’s more than one, I’d look for the US made upgraded versions that used to come with a lifetime gaurantee and replace all 4. depends how long you plan to keep it tbh.

PS; You can now get both UV & IR (heat) reflective tints.

Had my windows tinted (film), cost about £200 I think, couple of hours, after 2.5 yrs years, no signs of peeling, fading, splitting or bubbles etc. much cheaper & faster than replacing glass.

Oh, forgot to ask, as it’s a 2016 model I’m assuming it uses ‘Adblue’ by law. BUT, it’s worth getting yr specialist to check the exact date as if the car was made before it became law to have it fitted, then it can be disabled and you’ll never have to worry about it or refill it again! It only became an MOT checked item after it became law that the system had to be fitted. before that date it was just an optional extra. Be aware that as the system fluid level drops, and parts of the system dry out, the drops left behind will dry out and crystallise, eventually, this causes the system to stop working and it needs cleaning/flushing, no big deal unless it goes into ‘limp’ mode!

Nice motor, as said elsewhere, ‘genuine’ Audi parts are mostly made by other specialist parts companies, filters especially! Tiptronic gearboxes, defo NOT sealed for any period, I had my 1st in a 2004 V8 Allroad, specialist advice was oils & filter every 40k, so it’s a bargain at whatever price compared to a possible failed box. not sure if the BIturbo has the same water leak in the ‘V’ design issue that the other V6 diesels do but it’s worth asking your specialist/ keeping an eye on it as it’s not a cheap fix. is the BIturbo cam belt or chain? Other possible issue may be the air suspension, but that seems far more reliable now than the 1st couple of generations. However, just be aware that again, aftermarket versions of the airbags (US made, guaranteed for life) are often better quality and a LOT cheaper. Air pumps too: If you ever need a suspension air pump, they’re not made by Audi either, one company supplies them to Merc, RR, Range Rover (virtually every make that uses air suspension) etc. Audi wanted to charge me £1300 for pump + labour. I bought one direct from the US manufacturer (after an internet search) for my 2004 Allroad for £300 and had it fitted at a local garage, 1 hour!

Interesting! Didn’t know you could just change the screen to get car-play/android on it. id thought it was a separate module that needed changing. how easy was that and I’m assuming it needed coding afterwards! cheers

I bought an automotive silicon adhesive sealant, (black) online. normal domestic (eg; bathroom) type silicon, doesn’t have the same adhesive quality, it’s why you can peel it off to a degree. ill dig it out for the trade name but, I’m sure there are plenty of different makes. I did it myself due to so many reports of garages & dealers being unable to fix it. but I found that a steel spring net curtain wire was perfect for Cleaning the drains out, (there’s 4, the rear 2 are best accessed from the bottom end, rear wheel well I think), it’s flexible enough and the outer plastic coating means the steel spring doesn’t damage anything. i just used a drinks bottle with a nozzle to dribble water into the sunroof cassette to see if & where it came out. i did have to get the airbag module reset afterwards as the airbag light had come on after I’d removed and replaced the A pillar trims to release the headlining. Be careful you don’t pinch/pierce the airbags (if fitted) with a trim removal tool when you release the headlining above the front doors and behind the A pillar trims. and good luck!

If you read through the above thread, (see my long my post on 24th March) it covers that, same fix as all the other holes in the wind deflectors seal trough. it worked, I also left the roof covered to stop any rain getting in (small tarpaulin tied to roof rails and under wiper arms) for 24hrs to allow the mastic to dry thoroughly too. there are numerous threads both here & on U-tube covering the subject. good luck

Hmm, been following this thread with interest, in a previous life I was a naval engineer, so I’m very aware of just how corrosive salt water can be, even over a short time and of course vented discs have an ‘inside’ that you can’t see, that’s corroding away merrily that close to the sea. ceramic discs will stop it all. Coated discs, as Charles said, if it’s just a surface treatment, it clearly won’t survive as a surface very long and will then allow the swept surface of the disc to corrode, but, as it’s the swept area, there’ll still be the nasty grinding noises when you 1st use the brakes. the coating, assuming it covers 100% of the entire disc (inside & out), would still stop those areas corroding but at a much lower cost. depends how much the grinding gets on your nerves. be interesting to see how you get on if you go for the coated discs, I’m fairly close to the coast (7 miles) but it’s not too bad here for salt spray etc, we get some, but only in high winds & storms.

I’ve used ‘LLLparts’ before, theyve been very helpful, even when I couldn’t find the parts in the catalogue. So if you can’t see what you want in there I’m sure if you send them an enquiry, they’ll be able to give you both the part numbers and the ‘exploded’ diagrams.

Searching for wheels for your model year A6 c5, it looks like they would have an offset of 43 (ET43). But that still doesn’t tell us if the twin spokes would fit!

Not sure what the offset is for standard wheels for either the 2wd model or the All-road, mine came with 18” but the ride was rough, so I bought these, I believe they were an option on purchase.

If you add your car to EBay, it’ll tell you if they’ll fit straight on but I don’t think they will.

Steve, found this Ad on EBay, it has the size & offset details. (7.5J x 17 - ET 25) https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/225783472013?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=8xMc12cKTTW&sssrc=4429486&ssuid=QsBH-A3FQcm&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY

Hi Steve, No tyres, just the wheels, as to spacers, not sure at all. They might just go straight on. Someone else on here may know more, there’s also a few wheel upgrade sites that can calculate the clearance for a given set of wheels on specific cars. i had some photos, but can’t find them, possibly deleted. I’ll have another look as they’re currently covered by a load of cardboard at the bottom of pile of various car related bits that’s accumulated over the years, a bit awkward to get at, if I can get at them, I’ll get photos and details of size & offset.

Hi Steve, No tyres, just the wheels, as to spacers, not sure at all. They might just go straight on. Someone else on here may know more, there’s also a few wheel upgrade sites that can calculate the clearance for a given set of wheels on specific cars. i had some photos, but can’t find them, possibly deleted. I’ll have another look as they’re currently covered by a load of cardboard at the bottom of pile of various car related bits that’s accumulated over the years, a bit awkward to get at, if I can get at them, I’ll get photos and details of size & offset.

Hi folks, Ive still got a set of 4 OEM 17” Double spoke Alloys from my previous 2004 Allroad sat in my garage taking up space. they’re in almost perfect condition with only 1 wheel picking up a stone chip. (I’d had them refurbished a few months before I sold the car - timing chan started rattling, on the V8, that’s a £6k engine out job!) Can’t recall the offset but I think it’s different to the standard C5. FREE to collector- BS22 9QJ may be able to transport to various mid to southern England places or close as I get around a bit paddling.

The videos pretty good for releasing the coil springs and the plastic hinge arm. but it doesn’t show removal of the 2 leaf springs. the end of those (front, but you can’t see it, it’s underneath the moulding) has a small locating hole in it, push that end down slightly to release it and you should then be able to slide the spring forwards to release the back end and lift it out. I used a small screwdriver to push down with and a small pair of long nose pliers to pick it out.

I used a small flat blade screwdriver to help ease one end out then just gently lifted the seal free inch by inch by hand being careful to keep the deflector as straight as possible and not bend the seal (it appears to be metal reinforced), suspect if it gets deformed, it won’t fit correctly.

Hi Andrew, I ran a 2004 V8 Allroad for 4/5 years and had similar issues with the styling of the more recent versions. i ended up with a 2015 version. However, the diesel V6 engines mine came with have a few issues that can crop up if they don’t get the proper servicing, turned out mine hadn’t, all fixed now but at a cost (cam chains, suspected service/ heavy foot issues from previous owners) design issue with a coolant leak in the V, which is another costly adventure. But, I love the car, very comfortable and having been effectively commuting to my mums 144 miles away in all conditions since last October, started travelling at 65 instead of 70-75 and found the fuel economy to be crazy, been seeing 49-50 mpg out of it. However, as Gareth said, if your current Allroad, (must admit, I loved my old Allroad, drove it through 2’ floods & a foot of snow at times, no hassle at all, did everything I could have asked) , still does everything you want it to do, then why change it, trade in or even private sale isn’t likely to get you much after so long. In my case, as my wife drives a yaris hybrid which is used mostly for work, so is getting wrecked and is far too small for me get vaguely comfortable in even on short trips, I did think briefly about about swapping mine as it’s not healthy to use it for short trips (DPF) but, nope, love it too much, so I’m looking at a 3rd car for all the local (2-3 short trips a week for shopping, taking the grandkids out, walks etc within 50-60 miles) trips that we do and I’m considering an older EV. I’ve been searching & researching for about 4-6 months, looked at Audi, BMW, Mercedes, even Teslas but the Hyundai Ioniq EV or PHEV (old model, discontinued in 22/23, not the newer Ioniq5 or 6), Kona or Kia Niro are coming out top of my list. (My Audi has a dpf, so lots of short trips can kill it easily), prices are far less than buying new and the efficiency & reliability of Korean cars is among the best, along with 5 & 7 year warranties respectively, so I’m hoping to find a car still within the warranty period too!

Hi folks, Cars a 2015 Allroad btw. A recent trip north early in the day with the sun out showed up a very annoying gap in my sun visors: the sun was just over my right shoulder but with the visor swung round to the side window, it doesn’t reach back far enough to cover the rear of the side window next to my head.so I had the sun in the corner of my eye all the way up to Brum. does any know if any Audi model (possibly the A8?) has ‘extending’ visors? I had a Lexus RX with them, when released from the clip (so they can swing round), you could move the visor along its hinge bar, to reach further back when swung round to the side. Theres also a gap either side of the interior mirror, has anyone else found that an issue, if so, how did you fix it! As I haven’t seen the old ‘Geoff & Tracy’ type sun screen bands for years😄 Cheers all!

Sorry all, should have posted this weeks ago but been busy helping mum, the lift in her flats is busted so she can’t get out! I cleaned the narrow trough the wind deflector seal sits in with cotton buds and glass cleaner (no residue). there are 2 small (about 1 1/2” long) leaf springs (1 either side), that help push the wind deflector up into position when you open the roof, there are 2 holes in the roof cassette under each of them as well, so they got the same treatment. the 2 coil springs (1 each side again), are a bit tricky to remove / replace but a bit of care and patience worked the 2nd time!🤦🏻‍♂️ I managed to drop the sides of the headliner but couldn’t release the front, so I could only reach in underneath for about 8”, I taped up the holes over the 1st 8” from each side of the car in the seal trough from underneath (bit tricky with tight access, best option I found was to use small bits of tape (about 1-2” long) on the end of 2 fingers!), then applied a generous squirt of black silicone adhesive sealant into the bits of the trough I’d taped up, refitted the leaf springs and wind deflector, (I used a couple of bits of wood to tap the seal down into the trough against the pressure of the silicone) and left it for 24hrs before testing with a watering can! make sure the seal sits right down into the trough, as I don’t think there’s much clearance when the roof closes. it’s worked though, no more water getting in. hipe this helps.

I found this on U-tube, I’ve removed the wind deflector on mine and there’s some wetting under the seal in both corners, so hoping I’ve found the culprit, too wet today to do anything else. https://www.youtube.com/attribution_link?a=xVZFIwLIRPdg4dKl&u=/watch%3Fv%3DLJtU3fV22tE%26lc%3DUgwEOIOc62jI3G1NIyp4AaABAg.A-jZYkZKSffA-lG_ogQjfz%26feature%3Dem-comments

Did the link work? Haven’t tried copying from u-tube before

Main dealers don’t teach their technicians how to find faults, they get taught how to use the diagnostic computer. There’s a big difference. leaks are basic engineering, which they just don’t seem to teach anymore!