56Doc

Try this, (not sure if it’ll work!) https://www.youtube.com/attribution_link?a=xVZFIwLIRPdg4dKl&u=/watch%3Fv%3DLJtU3fV22tE%26lc%3DUgwEOIOc62jI3G1NIyp4AaABAg.A-jZYkZKSffA-lG_ogQjfz%26feature%3Dem-comments

Got the same problem, seems to be coming from somewhere in the front corners of the sunroof, but haven’t found the source yet. havent asked Audi yet either, found a few useful videos on you tube, last one looks more promising, I’ve removed the wind deflector and there’s signs of water under the seal in both corners, guy who posted the vid said he put silicon sealer in the trough for that seal, cannot put much in as the seal won’t go in properly if I do. Hoping for a bit less rain tomorrow!

Many issues later, I’m close to being able to think about the seats again. (Cam chains, in ‘V’ water leak, engine & gearbox services, oil leak from warped rocker cover (£5k), then it was the Xmas tree lights on the dash from the failed steering rack, another £2k+! a seized rear wiper motor (Audi designed crap, gearbox so corroded and so little grease,) also wiper arm was completely fused to the motor spindle so resorted to drilling it out and replacing both (another £150 for the bits) Got all that from fixed to find water in bath front footwells from the sunroof drains, drains are clear (ran both water & a cleaning (curtain rod) through them, so now I have to figure out how to remove the door aperture trim to get at the drain pipe in the A pillar to fix those leaks! Any advice on that will be gratefully received! there’s obviously a join in the pipe that is not sealed very well, very, very annoying!

My 2015 3.0 tdi dies about 45mpg at a steady 70 & 30-35mpg around town. But my overall average is around 40, yours might be better, just dont floor it until it’s at full temp! it improves a little in summer. gearbox is full oil (both, hydraulic & Lub) at 30-40k intervals (I think - not sure without digging out more info). It’s also advisable to get it flushed as well. timing chain, not sure if that year had 4 or a single but, yup, any hint of a rattle, walk away! Just had to have mine done at 65k so had the ‘in Vee’ water leak fixed at the same time. Nearly £3k for both.

My car was showing same fault, reset, it would just come back after a short time, but was starting and running ok, it rattled on start now & then and occasionally under acceleration, advice I was given was that if it rattled on every start, then the chains/guides/tensioners etc all needed replacing soonest. not sure what other symptoms you might have, there’s a lot of sound insulation in the A6, so it’s difficult to hear the engine on start with the doors & windows shut. But either way, good luck.

I know the cam chains are a big job, Audi charge about £2500-£3k I believe. my engine (2015 3.0tdi) needed a lot of new oil seals to go with it too. Job took a garage 4 days (with snags though, should have been 3).

I’ve used the ‘LLLPARTS’ website to help locate stuff before, it’s free to use. but it sounds like your cam chains have stretched. ( had mine done in Nov, tensioners we’re on their limit, so I caught mine in time.now have a dash like Xmas tree, so waiting for everyone to go back to work tomorrow to start calling) have you searched for Audi specialists in your area? & have you been able to confirm it’s the sensor not the chains? Think the engines back then had 4? But not sure.

Been throwing it down all day, so I’ll try tomorrow. but someone else has said they had the same symptoms x caused by a defective relay. anyone else come across that?

👍

Sorry, what clusters? Lights? I have had condensation in the drivers side headlamp unit for a while, it’s clean, so not water ingress, haven’t found any dodgy seals there yet (I’ve looked 2 or 3 times over the summer) another thought is that the 2 faults (Xmas tree & rear wiper leaking washer fluid) are NOT connected, just a coincidence, we drove through some very heavy weather for 7 hours on Wednesday (yup, 7hrs for a 230 mile trip, not the worst one I’ve done but it’s in the top 5). so I’m also wondering if something in the engine bay got soaked/wet/flooded but it then took a day or so to soak into something critical. Thoughts guys? engine starts & runs ok, gearbox & brakes work ok, all lights are good, infotainment is all fine haven’t checked windows, sunroof, climate control, seats etc (I will tomorrow) but stuff like ASC, TPMS, PWR steering and air suspension are all showing faults. Oh, there are zero fault codes in the ECU. Checked 3 times since it happened, absolutely nothing. Any other thoughts

A voltage check is good start, both static and with engine running, doing a full load & discharge test (if it starts the car ok, it’s probably ok), is a lengthy process as a spot check of load current is meaningless without testing how long it can sustain that load. (before I retired I was an electrical/electronics and systems engineer, so I’ve had experience of high power wet batteries (U.K. Subs use quite large ones!) if the off-load/on-load voltage check seems ok and no-one has any other ideas, then I can call the RAC or wait until I can talk to the Audi specialist, I’m not ripping the battery out for a check at Halfords, too much hassle digging out radio codes etc. does anyone know how to do a re-set of all vehicle electronics? Suspect that might work.

Tailgate wiring all looks good and I’ve not had any electrical issues until now, and drove back from Leeds Wednesday, so wouldn’t expect the battery to be at fault. also, can’t drive it! No power steering, the 1 mile back from where it when pear shaped was done at 10-15mph due to the number of bends & corners! It was a real wrestle. However, I will check the voltage tomorrow and report back here. my local Audi specialist is closed this week (think they’ve probably gone to Poland to see family). So I’m stuck!

Hi Y’all, ok, this is a new one on me: my rear wiper started playing up, so assuming it’s the usual issue caused by the design fault of the washer tube corroding inside the motor, I ordered a new one. (Yet to arrive). driving back from town yesterday, the rear wiper came on permanently by itself, then stopped after a few minutes (not parked, just stopped), I assumed the fuse had blown as the window was dry. silly boy! Almost immediately, the dash lit up like a Xmas tree with a succession of system faults. Biggest issue was the sudden loss of power steering. i wrestled the car home and looked up fuses for the rear wiper, thinking that perhaps the fuse hadn’t blown and the motor being full of water had caused a volt drop in the system, causing multiple warnings. Only found 1 fuse marked ‘wiper motor’! so, today, removed the tailgate trim panel and disconnected the motor, hoping that would fix things. Nope! so the car is still undrivable.😔 Having disconnected the motor, do I now need to perform a full re-set of all electronic systems, if so HOW please? Anyone got any other ideas? somewhat hacked off as only had the cam chains replaced, oil leak repaired and the standard water leak in the ‘V’ done along with a major service, gearbox oil change etc back in November. That wasn’t cheap, so feeling a tadge low with the car unusable again! Hoping someone’s come across this before! Please😁 Cheers Folks

Ah, hadn’t heard of them before. Thanks, they might be closer (I’m south of Bristol!)

Anyway, next job is install the new heated, ventilated fronts seats (with massage function apparently) then get it booked in to Audi Retrofits in London for the electrical & electronics update to get the seats fully working. Possibly go for Car play/ android auto install at the same time. Not sure on that bit yet.

And all because I wanted to put blinds in the rear windows for the Grandkids but the cards I had were dark brown, originals were black & brown rear doors with black front ones just looked so odd! Rear cards went on no issues, 30 min job for the pair. The fronts however! It was compounded by the the brown cards coming from a LHD car, so I had to cut holes for the 2 extra switches in the drivers door (rear door release and interior sensors isolation switch) & drill a new hole for the alarm LED, make up and fit the 3 extra plastic tabs to hold the door release Switch and cables in place, repair the main plug from the wiring loom and repair the damage done when the cards were removed from the donor car. pleased with it though, Dark Brown wouldn’t have been my 1st choice but it does look as good as the black, and a lot better than mismatched front & rear cards! So, after doing all of that. The damn things WERE going on!🤨

Yup, one of those jobs I started to think I should have just left!

Ok, found it! There’s a small shallow square indentation in the lower edge of the door panel that, when pressed upwards, releases a small plastic catch and hey presto, the panel comes loose! that ‘tag’ was broken on all the other cards, so I thought it would be just the same as all the standard little pin rivets. God only knows why Audi put that in there!

Ok, I know there’s lots of vids on this. However, I’ve already swapped the other 3 door cards (another story, another time!) without any issues but the drivers door card just will not budge. I’ve released the 3 bolts and ALL the clips, (double, double checked even got the 2 nearest the puddle light out) but something very close to the puddle light is stopping the door card from coming off, can’t get more than about 1/2” movement at the bottom. I’ve applied more brute force than I’d like and think I’ve already damaged the card along the bottom edge (hopefully just a split, so easily fixable). ive got about a 1/2” gap to see thru but can’t see anything obvious (can’t much at all tbh!). anyone got any ideas? (Apart from pull harder🤦🏻‍♂️) cheers folks

Worried I might have to go down that route, mines started to rattle on start-up like a pair of Marracas!

It was low pressure, so could have been any 1 (or more of 4 or 5 components. not a happy chappy ! Too many £’s. oh, well, I’m not going to be selling it for some years anyway, so guess you have to expect a few things like this!

Mines defo not an adblue level issue, it’s stating ‘Adblue System Fault’

I’m there tomorrow am, so I can ask. but thanks for the heads up!

It’s booked for Fri am. There is a light on in the tunnel - apparently adblue wasn’t compulsory for my year/engine (euro 6) combo, so it can be disabled/deleted if necessary. Depends what’s wrong & how much it might cost to fix! fault codes are odd 3 figure codes.

Found out my car will cease to start in 450 miles! 😵 Adblue system fault, no fault codes though! + I’m now 230 miles from home! Anyone come across this before? guess I’ll be getting the water leak fixed too then!