56Doc

Thanks Steve, that qualifies it all a bit more.

Syntax, it’s meant to say that the guy that reported the same fault had previously, for an unrelated issue, as well as the fault appearing had previously had the chain replaced. reflecting what he’d done, not something I’ve done or that he did as a consequence of the fault code.

I haven’t had any timing chains changed, that was someone else on here. This code popped up in a remap pre-check. So I can’t proceed with the remap until this fixed. car only has 62k miles on it.

It’s in the title, which didn’t come across!🤦🏻‍♂️

Fault code 21583 - Loss of crankshaft synchronisation. the cars a 3.0 tdi (218ps) S-Tronic. Hi folks, anyone come across this before and know what causes it? It’s intermittent too. there’s one other post I’ve seen with that code but no resolution. That guy had also just had the chain & tensioners replaced. other code that comes out is P191A 00 (096). Have no idea what that means either! cheers Dave F

I’ve had worse noise from chains on various previous engines, including a Cosworth V6 Sierra & a V8 Allroad, I sold that after finding out the cost of replacing those 4? Chains but it was then sold on by the next 2 buyers over 5 yrs without the chains being changed. if it was a belt I’d have had it done by now! I was an engineer before retiring, we quickly found that chains are very forgiving of a bit of slack in an enclosed guide system, open ones not so much though!😏 Knowing Audi though, I’m assuming there are plastic chain guides that need replacing too?

Oh, forgot to mention, it’s officially only done 62k miles, is this issue coo on at that mileage? although it was a company car for the 1st 2-3 yrs of its life.

No, that’s ok, the rattle has only recently started and only when under higher acceleration but I’m quite sensitive to anything changing (old habit from my engineering days, you get used to looking/listening for anything different!). so I’m not overly concerned about a catastrophic failure being imminent but yr right it does need sorting & preferably soon. do you know if these engines are single chains, duplex or triple? Not seen one in bits before. cheers

Is this a common problem?

My engine (3.0 v6 diesel) has thrown up a crankshaft (synch?) fault code when it’s Interogated and I’m getting, what seems fairly clearly to be, a cam chain rattle, implying that either the chain has stretched more than the tensioner can handle or the tensioner has/is failing or both, I’m also guessing that a chain issue could cause the crank synch issue. Has anyone had, or heard of similar issues? And the likely fix/cost🥺 are my assumptions in the right ballpark? cheers Dave

Do HID headlamps slowly lose their brightness over time? I know Halogen lamps deteriorate quite fast but don’t know much about HID lamps at all. Yet! My cars now 7.5yrs old, halogen would have out by now. Wondering if it’s worth replacing and, if I’m replacing, is it worth the extra to upgrade? Any thoughts? cheers Dave

Brilliant, thanks Steve.

Do you access the dipped/main beam lamp from under the wheel arch on the A6 C7? thanks

Don’t think they’ll look too small, the tyres will be different with higher sidewalls (profile) anyway otherwise you’ll mess up yr Speedo and gear change speeds etc. (If auto). I ran a C5 with 18’s (option) on in summer and the standard size (17’s) in winter. if anything, the 17’s looked bigger due the higher profile tyres. just check the offset you need with the smaller wheels. There are some useful websites out there I’ve used in the past. (Can’t recall which ones now, too long ago.)

I’m got a lot of condensation in one headlight unit. I can clear it when the weather allows (it’s driver side, so need to get the air inlet trunking out for access, nice & simple! Not!) However, does anyone have any idea how moisture got in there in the 1st place! obviously, I’ll check all the lamp access points but it’s just moisture, no dirt at all. cheers folks.

Ah, didn’t know it was bonded, that’s a different ball game! Might be either a body shop (£££££) or scrub the idea! Ive looked on EBay, just GRP aftermarket bits not OEM, hence the question about parts catalogues. Thanks for the info though.

Ah, didn’t know it was bonded, that’s a different ball game! Might be either a body shop (£££££) or scrub the idea! Ive looked on EBay, just GRP aftermarket bits not OEM, hence the question about parts catalogues. Thanks for the info though.

Does anyone know of a good Audi parts Catalogue, I’ve used LLLparts before but that one is a bit limited. im wondering wether to swap the rear spoiler on my 2015 Allroad for the one on the S-Line, as I think it looks so much better. (also wondering how big a job that might be!?) cheers Dave

Well, they did suggest going to the right person, so it all worked out in the end. just got to get the car data downloaded next week, get that to Audi Retrofits, then wait for any new unit(s), then I can book it in to have the work done! nothings simple though is it!

I’ve got both from fitting OEM blinds to my sons car. Forgot about them until you mentioned it though!

These rear wipers have the wash water pipe come up through the spindle, that metal tube corrodes through and you get water ingress into the gearbox, which then corrodes and gets gummed up when the washer fluid dries! mines been acting up too, sometimes same symptoms as yours, few times either not moving at all or parking in wrong place! so I’m looking to get a new one when the weather warms up and fitting it myself. (Done them before, awkward bit is getting the trim off without damaging anything!)

Ok, we have a plan:- Spoke to Autologics, they don’t fit OEM equipment, they suggested Audi-retrofits in London, who I knew of (but too far for a 2 day job), they say that some need replacing, some don’t, so I need to get the car scanned (arranged) and get the part numbers of the units fitted, he can then tell if I need new units. so, sorted. thanks everyone. dave

There’s lots of things that affect fuel consumption, previous maintenance, whos fuel they used etc. sadly, not all fuels are the same. The supermarkets are ok if you do very high miles but the fuel tends to have far more impurities in it than the premium stuff like Shell, BP, etc. I do fairly low mileage so after taking lots of advice from various trusted sources, I try to only use Shell, so far (12k miles & 14 months), no sign of any dpf etc issues. (Sadly petrol Allroad are like hens teeth!j it might be worth getting the injectors cleaned and the car remapped?

Well, Honest John says 45 average. So yours looks better than average.

Thankyou. I will.