Tech

Glad it's sorted Jess

They are both reliable engines. The 1.6 TDI would be my choice purely for fuel economy and tax reasons.

The throttle body looses its basic setting (learnt values) when the battery is disconnected. It will eventually re-adapt but it is best to get the basic setting carried out either at an Audi dealer or by somebody with VCDS software Tech

The brake pad wear indicator is for the front pads only, it can not be retrofitted to the rear (these require wear assessment visually). To replace the grill requires the front bumper replacing also.

Hi Heathercoral, There are a number of things that can cause a gear selector to jump out of gear as you have described. Firstly, worn engine and gearbox mountings (these are external to the gearbox and easily accessible for a Technician or Mechanic). Secondly, incorrectly adjusted gear linkage cables can cause a similar problem (again these are external to the gearbox). Thirdly internal components such as worn selector forks and syncro hubs can be a problem, these are internal to the gearbox and require the gearbox removing and dismantling in order to access. All three scenarios are very rare on Audis to be honest but not by any means impossible. I can only assume their mechanics have already checked the first two items. Can you get the car to replicate the fault if you try driving it in a certain manner, like allowing the clutch to bite a bit more suddenly than usual for example? You also mentioned that the problem happens when using first and second gear, are you sure it is both gears and not just one of the two? Seeing as your car is a 2010 model, is it actually out of its three year/60000 mile Audi warranty period yet? If not, it would be best to let Audi take a look. Tech

You can not replace the radio or MMI system on the B8 (8K) A4 as you will loose access to many of the cars functions. The link posted above is for stereo replacement on the B7 (8E) A4.

You shouldn't run tyres with more than 2mm tread difference on the same axle. The car will pull due to the difference in radius between tyres. However, the tyre only needs changing if the puncture is near the edges or has gone in at an angle or the tyre is damaged due to being run-flat.

Put your key in the ignition, hold down one of the buttons and turn the ignition on whilst keeping the button held. After about 10 seconds you can release the button and switch off the ignition, it should then be synchronised

If you have full Audi service history, it is quite likely that Audi will part fund the repair for you.

Has it been coded properly into the MMI unit when it was retrofitted? Its not just a plug and play situation installing AMI

The best way is with an AMI system, however, if it is audio quality you are after, the audio quality from an iPod is relatively poor anyway. Your better off using an SD card with higher bit-rate tracks loaded on.

Hi Leon, enjoy your new motor!

remove the underdash panel on the drivers side. To do this you will need to remove the fusebox cover on the end of the dash and then remove the three 8mm bolts, one behind the fuse cover and one at the bottom on either side. The panel is clipped in at the top and will pull away with gentle force. Behind this panel you will see a few relays to the right of the steering column and above/behind them is an ECU (black plastic box with a few large connectors on it). Disconnect the battery and remove the connectors from the ECU, check carefully for signs for water ingress. Tech

There must be a fault with the unit then, take it to the dealer

There may be a problem with the AMI unit itself. Is the AMI cable a new one, because they can be temperamental if they have been kinked at all. I recommend you pop over to your local dealer and have a quick word, they may be able to just test a known good AMI cable for you before you look at an AMI fault.

Not quite true, I work for one of the countries largest Audi dealers, and we do a hell of a lot of work for free actually. We wouldn't even dream of charging for something like that, which should really have been done on the pre delivery inspection anyway! Tech

Have you purchased a genuine Audi DVD? It needs activating at the Audi dealer with the codes on the inside of the booklet in the DVD case. The AMI lead will only work if it has a blue collar near the and that plugs into the car. If it is all black, it is for the early models and will not work with the MMI 3G system in your car. Hope this helps. Tech

Ah OK, if they are still running when the car is cold then it may be more likely that the fan control module is the cause, hope they sort it for you! Tech

If they have replaced the water pump, their is a chance that they may not have bled all the air out of the cooling system properly, thus causing certain parts of your engine to get too warm and the fans to keep running. Tech

have they both stopped working? Is your RS5 not still under warranty?

Hi Gaz, remove the temp sensor from the EGR cooler. It has an orange connector off the top of my head. It is quite easy to access. If it is covered in coolant residue, the EGR cooler is leaking. Tech

3G

Apologies for the late reply Glen, I didn't see your post. I'm not quite sure on the specs of the gear ratios and the power handling of the gearboxes, if I find out I'll let you know. Sometimes they post stuff like speed/rpm in the facts and figures area of reviews. Here's one from Parkers that might help you, although it doesn't give any spec on gearboxes http://www.parkers.co.uk/cars/reviews/facts-and-figures/audi/a6/allroad-2006/ Personally, I would never re-map or chip a car, I have seen the damage it can cause. I know that saying that will open up much debate to plenty of members but I'm an industry professional who's been working with brands like Audi and BMW for some time, I have seen the damage that re-maps and add-ons, cheap or expensive, can cause. The 2.7TDI is 177bhp standard, which is plenty really. The 3.0 TDI is 229 or 236bhp depending on model year. The gearboxes in both cars are very strong and I have never come across any common issues with them, but that doesn't mean I could be tempted to remap the engine ECU. The 2.7 TDI is essentially the same engine as the 3.0TDI, it was actually added to the range some time after the 3.0TDI. They are both common rail with piezo injectors. You would not be able to tell one from the other, even with the engine cover removed! They use exactly the same technologies and are both good engines. The old 2.5 TDI is completely different and became obsolete when the old (97-04) A6 ceased production. Tech

£500 for the storage box sounds accurate but I do not think this is the sole cause of the problem. Since you had the roof partially working before, it sounds like there is something implausible on one of the soft top switched or the roof bar potentiometer, it is impossible to take a guess at a soft top fault, they take too much manual diagnosis. The faults that they store are of little help, they require the live data reading and the problem areas then testing manually. Im afraid thats all I can do without seeing the car, they really are quite in depth. However, £500 for a soft top storage box is not going to fully resolve the problem. Tech

Depends if you're rough with it