Tech

The problem is most likely to be the rear wash/wipe motor its self. Especially if the car has had the rear washer pipe blow off at the back in the past and screen wash has entered the motor. Tech

Right OK there is potential for it to be a few things then. Try using the spare remote fob for a while and see if that eliminates the problem. Keep the currently used key in the house with the battery removed. Tech

If the leakage was really bad then yes, your right, it would show up on a compression test. However, a compression test only shows that the compression is ok on that one compression stroke (which happens very quickly, even when only turned over on the starter motor) therefore, a compression test is a good way of checking for major engine damage, but not much else. A small leak will not show up. A cylinder leakage test on the other hand will allow you to see if excessive air is leaking past the valves or stem seals of individual cylinders (with the rocker cover removed and the piston tested at TDC). This can help you spot problems before committing to the expense of removing the cylinder head. You could have oil leaking into the cylinder on a night and fouling the spark plug when you start the car the next day, too small for a compression check to show. Tech

Using the button method will set to a fixed 9000 miles/1 year interval. As long as your happy with that Tech

70nm + 90degrees if the bolt has small splines on the underside of the top flange, 200nm + 90 degrees if it does not. The bolt also needs renewing as it is single use only (a stretch bolt, much like a cylinder head bolt). Wheel bolts are 120mn. Tech

The heater fan control unit is the most likely culprit, its a small unit with a heat sink fitted to it, bolted to the fan motor.

Hmm, the FSI has one coil per cylinder between the two camshafts and I have only ever seen one (imported) A3 with that engine, it was more common in the A2, you have the MPI engine if you have the single coil and plug lead set up. Any way, If the engine is burning oil, it sounds like this is what is causing the spark plug to become fouled on cylinder 2, therefore you can rule out the ignition and injection components. You need to have a cylinder leakage test carried out and possibly e cylinder head removed to check for leakage on the valve stem seals or piston rings. Tech

Hi Jardinio, you're correct, the 1.9 is much more reliable! Go for a manual gearbox as oppose to a multitronic and you will have a good reliable car. Obviously check for full service history as you always would. The timing belt should have been changed at 75k or 5 years. Tech

Hi Bannonn, have you noticed if the car is using any oil? Also, is the car defiantly a 1.6 FSI, not an MPI? The 1.6 FSI was very rare in the A3 (common in the Golf) and it did not have HT leads, it had coil-on-plug. Tech

I'm afraid not, to reset the longlife service interval, the adaption channels in the instruments need changing with a diagnostic machine. Tech

Check if your door open warning light/interior light is coming on when the drivers door is opened, post your results. Tech

No problem, glad to be of help!

Hi Gazrat, remove your fuel filter and check for oil deposits in the fuel (very tiny black spots of oil in the fuel, use a torch). Check for the fuel filter paper element going black from oil deposits too, replace it if it is and see if the starting problem is eliminated. If it is, remove the filter again after a couple of thousand miles and see if it is becoming saturated with oil again. Post your results. Tech

You have a breather hose missing for the PCV. Go buy a new hose, it should not cost the earth and it just clips on. This should help stabilise your rough idle problem (providing there is no other underlying fault). It may hep your fuel consumption slightly but if you are seriously using a few litres of oil per month you car either has a serious oil leak, or frankly, your engine has had it! Tech

Hi, There could be a number of things causing this problem. If the PWM signal to the radiator fan ECU has a wiring fault (e.g. short to live) this could cause the problem. Also the engine ECU could be telling the fans purposely to run at full speed, if it believes something is too warm, due to a faulty temperature monitoring for example. However, seeing as you have also mentioned your AC is not working, I would suggest that your 'Audi mechanic' checks the measured value block for the air conditioning refrigerant pressure sensor. If this is reading too high, due to a faulty sensor or short circuit on the wiring, it will cause the fans to run at full speed and the air conditioning not to work (the compressor will be cut off as it already thinks the pressure is too high). Did you get this looked at by an Audi dealership or somebody claiming to be an 'Audi mechanic'? Tech

What lights exactly do you want to change to LED? Many of the aftermarket LED bulb replacements are not technically road legal. Also, you could have issues with the control of the lights from the ECU that controls them, seeing as it is set up to power and recognise incandescent bulbs. Tech

Hi Glen, The 2.7 and 3.0 TDI Allroads both have Tiptronic gearboxes in the automatic versions (a traditional 'torque converter' type with planetary gearing and ECU control). They are generally good strong gearboxes and do not require the oil changing as a serviceable item unlike s-tronic and multitronic (CVT) gearboxes do. The 2.7 is slightly better on fuel than the 3.0, but only slightly. There is generally nothing that is failure prone, intake manifold flaps can get play in the support bushes over time, requiring replacement of the intake manifolds (however, this was also a problem with the BMW 3.0 diesel like you currently own, so is not an manufacturer specific issue). The air suspension bags can get holes in if abused or in other exceptional circumstances, but this is rare, as can any pneumatic suspension. Just check the suspension works fine through lift and lower modes and does not drop once the engine has been switched off for a few minuets. Generally, a well serviced example will be a reliable car. Tech

Your cam belt should be replaced at 5 year intervals regardless due to ageing of the rubber. It would be wise to get it replaced. Tech

How very complimentary Bald Eagle! I was on holiday as it happens, but unfortunately not for a few weeks, just very busy! Hi Guitario, is this problem just a single knock every time you turn left or is it a constant knocking that changes with speed? If it is the former, the anti roll bar or anti roll bar drop links may be to blame, if it is the latter, it is more likely to be a damaged constant velocity joint. Check for damaged CV boots (traces of grease leaked to the inside of the wheels/brake callipers). Tech

Check for any perished breather hoses

Hi Bev, From your description, its sounds like one of the front wheel bearings is the issue. This should be the first thing you get checked.

Funny you say that because I actually think the system work better with the S-tronic gearbox, because you don't have to put it in neutral for it to cut out, but I drive a manual day to day so don't have the daily run experience with it that you do. Peoples opinion on start/stop seems divided full stop. I think the s-tronic version would be better if it stayed cut out when you applied the parking brake and lifted your foot off the foot brake. Unfortunately there are no adjustments and the system can not be permanently switched off as this would affect the stated combined mpg/Co2 figure, which would affect the tax etc (a bit like the way ESP can be disabled but always resumes after an ignition cycle or it would affect the euro NCAP rating). I have noticed that since Audi introduced the system in 2010 model year, the system has improved greatly, so hopefully it will be refined further in the coming years. Tech

The basic setting of the ride height is a special height that the suspension is set to when carrying out the wheel alignment and the ride height is also checked and adjusted on each corner, all using the diagnostic machine. The steering may only be slightly heavier but it could be causing premature uneven tyre wear now. The dealers equipment costs in excess of £80k plus the cost of the diagnostic machine (add another £10k) so paying out to get it set by the dealer is really the best thing to do. You also need to have 4 tyres on there with plenty of tread on first and not more than 2mm difference from one side of the axle to the other to get the best results. If your tyres are on their way out anyway, you'd be better running them out and getting them replaced before you get the wheel alignment checked. Tech

If the car is over-reving without going anywhere then the clutch is your problem but to be honest, the old 2.4 engine was never very quick - especially in the heavier A4 Cab. Tech

If the knock was defiantly at the rear of the car, I would not suspect it is relevant to the problem. Your car may be in limp mode for a few reasons but it can take a few ignition cycles to recognise it is a permanent fault and illuminate the EML. The cause of that engine going into limp mode (or a lack of power) would normally be either a fault with the vacuum unit or stop screw on the turbocharger, or a fault with the DPF system. Other things to look for are leaking boost system components. Is your car not still in warranty? Tech