The Brummie Mechanic

If I remember correctly it is a t55 but can't be certain..

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Long extension and a turbo reverse socket and a hammer. Possibly an impact driver will help too. Just hope the bolt doesn't snap! Then it's a strip down either way. Happy snapping!

Map sensor can't cope with the new power, clutch slipping, haldex engaging causing traction to kick in? Boost leak, vacuum leak etc etc. Was it a 180 to start with? If it's a 225 then it should have a 3bar map sensor standard. It's hard to understand why it has lost 35 bhp from standard. That's not age related, there is an underlying problem there. And the remappers would have picked up on sensor or running issues pre map.

Hi check the purple wire in the front door hinge wiring harness, that is the main communication wire for the door modules on that side. It's probably broken. Also while you are in there you may aswell check for splits in other wires and repair them too. Very common. The purple wire in question if memory serves me well is actually a purple wire with a black trace. Been a while but it is common. Lots of people misdiagnosed these with door module failure but I would always check the wiring first! Let us know how you get on and if the wiring is ok give us a shout and I'll guide you to what to test next.

Was it the thick brown wire?

Hi mate and welcome! Which spec a3 tdi do you have? Chris

They will fit yes but wiring for the electrics may be different. Although not sure. But bolt in would work. The airbag wiring should be standard though so your good to go.

As magnet said, check the wiring, usually the thicker wires tend to break first. Brown goes first If memory serves me well

Tell you what I'll do, I'll pull my concert out and take pics of the plugs to help identify your wires, I'll do it in the morning when I have some light ok? Mine is factory so won't have been messed with, all I have done is added a phone kit and used the CD changer input for an aux lead. But otherwise stock. Speak tomorrow.

Trained

Hi I would find the wiring to the egr and follow it through the loom back to the ecu and track for any shorts to power, seems like you have a chafed loom somewhere and the egr is getting too much voltage i.e from another power source along that loom. Easiest way to check is get a multimeter and set to volts. Unplug the egr, Black onto an earth point or battery negative and probe each pin until you find battery voltage or 5v reference. If either of these are an odd voltage like 8 or 9v when they should be 12v or 5v then you definitely have a short to power. If you find that you do, overlay a fresh wire from the correct coloured wire or pin on the ecu straight to the egr, just to prove the repair would work, run the car and see if it's cured and clear the codes. If all is well then back to tracing the chafed loom for a proper repair. Should do the trick, if not give me a shout! no problem.

Your front tweets usually take their power from the mids, not from the unit itself. That will be why you only have 2 pairs and not 4. I think there is a sticker on the concert that tells you what each wire does too?

I second that! Look through the wheels at the pads and see which pad is closest to wearing out and change that end of the car. Fronts I think carry the sensor on the b6 and b7

Hi mate welcome! what model engine etc are you after? Lots of people on here with q7, ask around for advice!

Sounds like you have a short in the wiring probably in the door hinge of the drivers door. Do all 4 do it or just drivers door? Check the ground wire (brown) at the hinge for breaks. And any other wires for breaks. Does the window operate normally with door open but intermittently works when closed? If so it's definitely a wiring issue. Very common on 8p a3. If it at all sounds a bit rough when operated it will be your regulator. If it sounds good and doesn't struggle then rule out the reg and the motor. More than likely wiring problem mate Chris

Did it cure your problem or was I way off base?

Had a few if these with snapped off pipes to the dpf pressure sensor. If you have access to a multimeter, check the 5v source at pin 3 I think, with it unplugged and then see if you have 5v at pin 1 plugged in. If so the sensor is scrap.

Sounds like the door module to me! Could also be the door latch if it thinks the door is open.

Hi firstly what model do you have and age? If it's an early a3 for example it could be your convenience unit aka body control module. If the fuses are good replace it anyway. I have had hairline cracks in fuses before causing lots of swearing lol. If you have a decent tester, check for a nice solid battery voltage to each sidelight, if you have an odd voltage like 9v then the cable is shorting to another power source somewhere. Also check the power to a good ground point, make sure you have 12.5v ish. Check continuity to ground from the plug to the respective ground at both lamp units, A good resistance should be about 0.1 ish ohms. If it's open circuit there's your problem. Happy to help if you need more help on anything Chris

Yes I had similar issue with my a4 1.9. Presuming yours is a 2.0 tdi? They are similar engines anyway. I plugged mine in with vcds to have no codes. I checked the in tank lift pump as these are common and had about 5 bar to the high pressure pump. All good. With limited tools at the time in the way of testing I couldn't check the output pressure of the TANDEM pump so went for a 2nd hand replacement from a 2.0 which is a direct fit. It cured the issue for about 12 months then started to have a misfire on idle but not when driven. Which turned out to be the crank sensor. Hope this helps. Not much goes wrong with the pd engines, so should be a simple fix Chris

I'm not familiar with litres/100km, more familiar with mpg. But for me, at 1.30 a litre where I live, 10 litres is 13 quid, I get 100 miles to 10 pounds of fuel, so my car is is doing approx 8 to 9 litres per 100miles? So yes I would have to say it seems about right? Obviously if it's a 2.7 or 3.0?

These are the 4 gold wheels. 4x 235 40 18. 1 of which is fitted to the damaged wheel. Also 2x 225 40 18 with 5 to 6mm tread.

Set of 8 speedline wheels from a mk2 onwards audi TT 5x112 18x8 52offset These are genuine speedline not replicas. 4 were refurbed bronze and wrapped in R888 rubber but a truck wrote my car off while it was parked so 3 wheels remain. Although the 4th is included as it may be repairable. The tyres have been removed and sold. The other 4 have had a rubbish black paint refurb and will need redoing. There are no tyres on these. Tyres that will come with the wheels are 3 x 235 40 18 nankangs 2 x 225 40 18 generics. All have centre caps and all wheels are straight with the exception of the one bronze wheel. Looking for sensible offers for all 8 wheels and 5 tyres Any audi owner will know what these are worth. Somewhere between 100 and 300 per wheel refurbished but I realise the black ones need painting so reflect that in your offers. Pictures of each wheel to follow. Some for now..

Sounds good to me! Old Audi's don't die!