ThomasG

I wasn't going to be cruel 🙂

All-Road only lifts my car to the second top, then allows me to raise further. If you want lowest ride - you need to go to dynamic (or sport if you've hacked the MMI) and it will drive at lowest. You can also lower the suspension another 10mm (you can go 15mm, but 10 seems the safest, through VCDS or ODB11).

I would get your fin replaced asap. It ended up being the cause of the ACC constant error I got. Renewed it and it went. As for software updates - I may or may not have done mine (cough) from an online source. Yes, I crapped myself about bricking a car, but it worked, and going over the new Forth Road Bridge doesn't show me in the middle of the Forth. It take a bit of time, but if you follow the instructions to the letter you should be fine. You obviously do this at your own risk. Sadly, the loss of the Google Earth connection means I just use my phone for all navigation now. Plus Google maps is much more intuitive. But get the fin sorted. You may still be under warranty for that if you bought it off a dealer. I was.

Update to this. I've spoken with a couple of friends who work on Audi's. They are at a loss. However, I went to look at the car today, and drove it to a flat area in the garage back. I plugged in the ODBEleven and looked for live data from the sensors. Now, the front left shows a 10 inch discrepancy in height (yes I know inches!!). And the air suspension lock for changing tyres is ON. I cannot get it to move up and down, so the car obviously thinks it's off the ground and has locked the air suspension. So, I've asked them to put the old one back on and see if it levels at least. Then - back to the drawing board... It could still be the wiring loom too...it's on the side where another garage changed the caliper... But any ideas?

No, they've not calibrated it. I'll see if they can do that, though it's not something they should need to do. But they are a good garage, and it's the place I bought i from, so there's the issue of losing face etc.

No, I replaced one last year and all was fine. I do have to say that a lot of these problems always seem to happen after wheel hub/bearing changes. I will go and see the garage tomorrow and ask them to check loom first. Mind-you if it doesn't rise back to its original position... !Removed! cars eh?

I just paid for a new part loom for the abs stuff. I'll see what they come up with.

Just when I thought I'd coughed up enough for the car this month... I have been having headlight etc stuff from a failed level sensor - however, the scan doesn't show which one - so - I bought 4 and the garage has kindly replaced them all. However, the error is still in the memory and the car has sunk at the front! We are at a bit of a loss - they are going to clean up the old sensors and put them back on to see if it sorts out the level. But if not - it may be genuine audi parts are needed...(!!!! £££££££). Before then - any one got any ideas?

It is your ABS sensor - either the sensor itself or the ring. I've had this twice. The garage will want to change the entire bearing - that's up to you. Just had it fixed last week, and had it two years ago. It's VERY unlikely to be the battery.

I serviced mine a month ago. No issues. Pumped the oil out, 6litres, 5.5 in and dribble the rest. The mmi sensor thing has two stages it seems. Reading one, ignore...then 30 secs later a second reading. Sorry to hear about your sensor though.

You can't fix it. Google withdrew support so it no longer works.

Just a thought, does it occur only in certain car settings? Dynamic and Individual for instance? I have the 2013 BiTDi with 90k on the clock and never had anything like this.

It's gone. The annoying problem of the low speed owl-like howl and the brake judder after 30 miles or so. Go with your gut reaction... Despite paying for a new bearing (it wasn't that) and the garage then ignoring me when I asked to change the caliper, I went to a new garage - supplied my own parts and he immediately noticed the caliper was rough. "I can rebuild it" he said in a Six-Million Dollar Man way - but as I'd bought a new caliper and new discs and pads - I just asked him to replace the lot. He did - £75!!! And now, no judder, no howl. Seems counter-intuitive that the howl would be the caliper, but a friend who works for the wonderful A for Audi in Glasgow, said he'd seen it before - that combined with the judder seemed to indicate caliper. So - shout out (as the youth say), to Border High Performance in Norham, Northumberland for the fitting and wonderful customer service, to MTEC Brakes for the lovely grooved discs and pads (no issues with these at all - properly bedded them in - lots of smoke, but a nice polymerised coating on the discs now) https://www.mtecbrakes.com/, and to Brakeparts (https://brakeparts.co.uk/) for the excellent caliper and phone chat. Looking forward to this years roadtrip. Will either go clockwise round Scotland, as opposed to anti-clockwise last year, or may see if we can travel to Ireland and have ten days there. One for the archives this.

Yes indeed. I took the risk, and it was ok. But you do need the right files.

I may, or may not have updated mine myself. The new forth road bridge and the new M8 interchange wasn't showing. The worst bit is the time and the fear you may brick your car. I didn't.

The SD card is used for the upgrade. Audi will charge c. £300 for the update. You can do it yourself (disclaimer), at your own risk.

All sorted. Changed the caliper supplier, it will be here tomorrow.

New caliper on its way - but I need to travel a few hundred miles in the next week or so. I am thinking of getting the garage to do a rebuild until the new one arrives. Does anyone know what calipers are fitted as standard to the 1LL coded A6 C7? front passenger side. There are options for the kits. It's a temporary fix - as the judder, the howl etc., has been diagnosed as caliper sticking slightly - 20c difference in disk temperatures after a 20 mile run (I knew that pizza oven laser thermometer had other uses!). So new caliper and some nice new pads and disks on their way. At last. just the wee knocking noise on the drivers side rear to sort - worn bush I am hoping.

Worth buying the OBDEleven for this sort of code clearing. https://obdeleven.com/en/ and I'm not on some sort of commission for mentioning it in all the posts!! It's just saved me a lot of money!

I don't think you can reset it with a fuse removal. You need to clear codes for it not to come on.

The extra performance of the 3L means you can zip past the 2L's 🙂

I just drove to Glasgow and back - a 200 mile round trip, though half of it on smaller roads - I averaged 42mpg. I have the BiTDi, 313hp 3.0l V6. I am very happy with that.

The OBD11 solved a problem that Audi Dealership in Glasgow spent ages NOT solving, but billing the vendor garage under warranty regardless. It was the all lights on, ABS failure, all adaptive systems failure - I've posted about it before, but thousands were billed (not to me thankfully) and in the end the OBD found it to be corrosion in the GPS fin. It also solved my adaptive suspension fault - sensor off eBay £80, and fitted it myself. Worth its weight in Bitcoin.

Yes...Adaptive Suspension

Good plan. But I haven't had a repeat this morning. I'll get some silicon spray and watch youtube vids!! On another note. That howl has gone since the new tyres and alignment done!