Rudis_Dad

I have 3.0TDI V6 A5 it's a 2008 model with the 242bhp CAPA motor, just over 107k on the clock. In June this year I did a full service including changing the oil and filter. I put in 6.5 litres of the specified oil and thought nothing more of it. For obvious reasons, since then the car has only done very short trips - I'm working from home and only need to nip into town now and again to do shopping, etc. - Typically no more than a 10-mile round trip. However, a couple nights ago I had to go on a longer trip than usual - 60 miles or so, mainly motorway. On the return trip, about 20 miles from home, I got a yellow oil warning light, and a message "Top up oil, 1L minimum - you may continue driving". Now bear in mind that the car has done less than 1200 miles since June... So I got home, let the car sit for 10-15 minutes, and dipped the oil. Admittedly, it was a bit low - so I thought OK, maybe I've not put enough in when I've done the service and it hasn't got thoroughly warm since, so it won't have got into all areas of the engine properly. So I topped it up with 1 litre, left it overnight, dipped it again the morning....only to find that it's right up to maximum on the dipstick! That said, the fault has cleared but I'm lead to believe that it clears anyway when you open the bonnet in any case? Now I haven't driven the car since, and I may be looking for things that aren't there, but is this an issue with this engine? It's not leaking oil and there's no oil in the coolant (or vice-versa), the cars running fine with no loss of power and is a quiet as anything, so I'm hoping it's just a minor aberration, but I've read horror stories about oil pumps failing, etc and I'd rather know now than before it's too late....

If other VAG group displays are anything to go by then they're notorious for developing dry joints on the PCBs - this can cause all sorts of intermittent and confusing faults. I'm afraid that I can't offer any practical help, but it is possible to get your existing cluster repaired, companies like BBA Reman offer a good service. Basically they "re-wet" all the soldered joints to ensure good connections.

It's slightly above average mileage but as long as it's got FSH it should be OK - what engine/drivetrain is it?

If the ECU is over-fuelling the engine you'll get a lot of black smoke out of the exhaust every time you put your foot down. You really need to find a diesel specialist who will be able to diagnose and cure this Don't rely on the consumption figures displayed on the dash, especially if the fuel gauge isn't working properly - they're woefully optimistic at best. If you want an accurate picture of your fuel consumption, do it long hand - knowing how to use Excel can help here! Next time you fill up, reset the trip meter to zero; at the following fill up, fill the tank to capacity. Note what mileage is displayed, and make a note of the number of litres purchased (or the total cost and cost per litre). Reset the trip to zero again. To work out your actual fuel consumption in mpg, proceed as follows - 1. Work out how many gallons you've bought - divide the total price you paid by the price per litre, to obtain the number of litres purchased. Divide the result by 4.546 - this will give the number of gallons that you have bought. (Example - £50 total divided by £1.249 = 40.03 litres; 40.03 divided by 4.546 = 8.81 gallons). 2. Divide the number of miles covered since the last fill up, by the number of gallons you've just purchased - this will give you your actual mpg. (Example - 300 miles divided by 8.81 gallons = 34.1mpg) You'll find that this figure will vary quite a lot from what's displayed on your dash. Also, pay attention to your tyre pressures. An under-inflated tyre can really drag your consumption figures down

I know what you mean Gareth, it does seem that there's very little meaningful interaction on this forum - it's much the same on the A5 Owner's Club forum. There seem to be a lot of people viewing posts but very few actually contributing to the forum. I think that the issue is that there are fewer petrol/diesel heads about, and many more people who have a passing interest in cars - I suspect that the latter are in the greater majority here. I also think the fact that an Audi is now much more a lifestyle statement than ever before ("Look at me, I've got an Audi!! I don't know or much care what makes it tick, but I've got one!!!) and you've got a recipe for little if any interaction. Shame - the VW scene is much more vibrant. Luckily I have both so I can get my fix one way or the other!!

Whatever size you put on, you need to have an equivalent outside diameter to your current fitment +/- 5mm. If you don't fit a similar equivalent size you will affect the speedo reading (smaller wheels will cause the speedo to over-read, larger will cause it to under-read); in addition to this it can also affect gearing if the difference from your fitted size is too extreme. For comparison, 255/35R20 has a nominal O/D of 686mm; 275/35R20 is 701mm (+15mm over the 20" wheels) and 275/35R22 is a whopping 752mm (+66mm!!) - but as Magnet has said, unless you can tell us the size of tyres currently fitted, it's difficult to give an properly constructive advice. My A5 has 20" wheels fitted with 255/35R20 tyres; as a result the ride is unforgiving, and the grip level in cold/greasy conditions is suspect (the car understeers appallingly if pushed too hard into corners and the road is anything less than bone dry - Quattro or no Quattro...) Too big wheels/tyres can also cause issues with rubbing/knocking on full lock. Personally, I wouldn't go bigger than 20"; they fill the arches nicely and are probably the best compromise when it comes to aesthetics and performance. I know that I'll be getting a set of 18" wheels with appropriate tyres for next winter.

If anyone's interested, it's Demon Dubs Southport Beach Bash on Sunday 15th March. Just an opportunity for a meet and a chinwag, all things VAG go so whether it's Audi, VW, Skoda, Seat or what have you, all are welcome. Marine Drive Car Park, Southport, Merseyside from 1pm (bring change cos it's a Pay & Display).

Burn it with fire. Seriously, it's a marketing gimmick - if you can get £50 for it be happy and run away, quick...

Anybody got/had a Dynavin media unit fitted? I have a 2007 A5 with the absolute basic Concert III unit and it looks like a potential winner as far as an upgrade is concerned.

Don't forget that the A5 is a much bigger, heavier car than your TT, and it's only got about 12bhp more. Plus it will also develop its power differently - diesel will be tuned for most torque at low revs so you may not feel much of a "punch" immediately you floor the pedal in mid- to high gear, unless you drop a gear when you want to accelerate. It feels a bit like lag, but it isn't really. I have an A5 3.0TDI making 236bhp; I also have a Golf Mk4 GTI 1.8T with the AUQ motor which makes 180bhp. The Audi has incredible low-down grunt - provided that you drop a cog before planting your right foot. If you don't, it picks up very slowly for the first two or three seconds and then you get a sudden almighty tidal wave of torque pushing you in the back. By comparison, the Golf makes urgent power if you even look at the accelerator - but the rub is that the Golf is almost 1/2 a tonne lighter than the A5 so it actually feels a hell of a lot faster!! It probably isn't in a straight line but I'll bet it would give a good account of itself over a standing quarter against the Audi. If you're used to a performance petrol engine you WILL have to adjust your driving style with the 2.0TDI to get the most out of it. Bear in mind that it ISN'T a performance engine so don't expect miracles...

If it's showing erratic fuel pressure/delivery, it could be something as simple as a clogged fuel filter. You'd be surprised with diesels how many issues like this are down to the fact that the fuel filter is full of crap. The timing gear is chain driven, not belt, so if it's jumped you'll really know about it...

Mine idles at about 600rpm when warmed up, but no shakes, it's as smooth as a freshy buttered weasel. Have you got an engine mount loose or broken?

Regards wind noise, there's a bit of trick you can do to reduce it if you're handy with a Stanley knife 😉 Get some large-bore windscreen-washer hose (the 8mm stuff from Halfrauds is ideal, or us 8mm vacuum hose). Open the car door and cut a length of hose that will run from the bottom of the vertical door window seal to within about 20mm of the roofline. Using a sharp Stanley knife or scalpel, make a small horizontal slit in the door seal level with the bottom of the window line - about 10mm long tops. Now, you should be able to thread the piece of hose up inside the seal and tuck the bottom end in. This will have the effect of stiffening the seal up so that it needs more pressure to deform it. It won't cure the wind noise completely but it will reduce it considerably.

I have a 2008 3.0TDI Sport Quattro. It's epic. Buy one. That's all you need to know!! Seriously though, about the only bad thing I've heard about them is that the very early 3.0L models can suffer with premature cam chain wear. Listen for very obvious cam chain rattle on startup when cold. The swirl flaps can also give issues, again with the earlier models which had plastic ones. I believe though that these can be deleted out by a competent tuner and the mechanism removed without causing issues. I found the starting procedure to be a bit odd at first with the diesels. Even according to the owners manual it can take quite a bit of cranking in cold weather (up to ten seconds!!) before they'll start. It's a bit disconcerting when you're used to a petrol that starts virtually before you've touched the key but once you get used to it then it's OK. I've never driven an A5 with one but I can't help feeling that the 2.0L would be a bit underpowered - they give away nearly 60bhp to the 3.0L in stock trim and having driven my dad's Skoda Octavia which has the same engine it feels really gutless next to the 3.0L. The Quattros are always going to have a more complex drivetrain so make sure that the centre Torsen diff has been serviced properly according to schedule. The only thing that I can fault it on is that when the roads are greasy it tends to understeer massively if you hit a tight corner too fast, even off the gas. That could be something to do with the ridiculously low-profile 20" tyres mine has fitted though... . Fuel consumption isn't bad for such a big motor either - I get about 30mpg average (my old petrol Mk4 Golf 1.8T GTi only got about 26mpg average!!) and up to 42mpg on long motorway trips. As long as it has good history and drives well then you're unlikely to get many issues.

Will it take a 4GB card? I thought they'd only handle 2GB?

I have 57 plate A5 3.0TDI which I bought in November last year. Whilst in general I'm more than pleased with it, there's one little niggle that I can't seem to get round, and that's the fact the Voice Control system for the phone just doesn't seem to want to play ball! Now admittedly I do have a pretty strong East Lancashire accent, but I'd hardly say that my English is unintelligible! But I can't even start to store speed dial shortcuts for my phone directory, not matter how I try saying it! The neighbours must think I'm barmy!! So, any ideas? Does it need "teaching" like some other voice control systems do?

As long as it doesn't rattle on startup you should be OK. If/when you go to view it, make sure that the engine is stone cold. Open the bonnet, and stick your head under it towards the back of the engine. Get someone to start it and listen for cam chain rattle. If there's even the slightest suggestion, walk away. That said, it was only really the early 3.0TDIs that suffered in this respect, so with a 2012 motor you should be OK.