Vorlockfoss

Interesting, thanks for the info Steve. I must admit, when I first bought VCDS I was a bit annoyed because it didn't do half the things I wanted it to. That was back when I had no clue about UDS & non UDS. VCDS is actually a very useful tool, and has helped with many little niggles, fixes, monitoring's and much fault finding. 🙂 Thanks, Paul.

Hi Stevey Y, Thanks for your response. Indeed, I'm sure I did, but I believe I only changed the last digit & not the last 3. I've now learned that about the serial number, so that will come in handy. 🙂 I don't believe you can on my A4 B8 as it's non-UDS. You can only enter 10 or 11 digit part number, 1 or 2 spaces, the battery manufacturer, 1 space and then the 10 digit serial number. Yes, me too, but every battery supplier, aside from Tanya, suggested a 70Ah 760A battery, so I went by popular suggestion. As I said to cliffcoggin above, it wasn't until my engine continued to fail to start after I'd installed the A7 battery that I looked further into the suggestion of using the cars 'starter battery', which I learned was a 92Ah 520A. This is when I posted as above. Apologies, I should have clarified that I changed the pump in the tank around 3 years ago, less than 12k miles ago, for a new Bosch pump, so that shouldn't be an issue. I haven't physically tested it, which I will do tomorrow, but it's making all the right noises, at all of the right times and instances. There is a simple way to test the flow of that low pressure pump, by disconnecting from the HPFP and adding a plastic 500ml bottle; it should reach around 1/3 full when opening the door and after emptying, it should reach a little under 2/3 full when pressing the key. So watch this space on that. Thanks again, Paul.

Hi cliffcoggin, Thanks for your response. This is true, but it's more to do with the MPN of my new battery being only 9 characters long, when the BMS will only accept 10 + 1 space or 11 characters in length. I fitted the battery I have because every configurator suggests that battery, such as Varta (varta-automotive), Amazon, carbatterymarket, eurocarparts, and others. There is one, Tanya, that suggested the Varta A5 which is 95Ah, but as all the others suggested the A7 which is 70Ah, I chose that by popular suggestion. It wasn't until my engine continued to fail to start after I'd installed the A7 battery that I looked further into the suggestion of using the cars 'starter battery', which I learned was a 92Ah 520A. This is when I posted as above. I would normally suggest it was my own stupidity, lol, but not on this occasion. 😆 Thanks again, Paul.

Hi, I'm looking for help with installing my new battery. I have just replaced the old Exide battery on my 2009 Audi A4 B8 2.0 TFSI Quattro as it was showing 20% charge, 0Ah and only 11.6 volts available, seemingly no matter how long I drove for. I did try charging it with a slow charger, and got it to 40%, but no more. At this time my car had gone into 'energy management active', and although my engine would crank apparently easily, it would not fire at all. The battery suggested by Varta, and bought, is a "Varta A7 - E39 - MPN 570901076 - 70Ah/760A - AGM Battery", which is the same specification as the Exide I've just removed. Now, according to the sticker in my Audi Service Schedule, the 'Starter' battery for my car was 'J0B', which was a "92Ah/520A AGM Battery", according to what I've learned online anyway; I'm open to correction if I'm wrong. Anyway, I fitted the new Varta battery, changed the last digit of the serial number of the previous BMS Code via VCDS, saved and cleared the error codes. I have to say that I have no idea what values the current code in the BMS represents, but it may be incorrect. Obviously I can't use the original Starter Battery BMS code, otherwise my car may try to charge the new Varta battery to 92Ah and damage it, IMO. I am trying to establish the correct code for my new Varta Battery, but it's proving quite difficult. As is known, the code needs to be 10 or 11 digits long, but the MPN on my new Varta is only 9 digits long. I have searched high and low, but each time I'm presented with the same manufacturer part number '570901076', which is only 9 digits long as I stated. I have tried adding 3 spaces to fill the missing digits between it and 'V0A', but no go, VCDS will not allow it; a 10 digit serial is tagged on the end as required. As I previously stated, the code installed may not be the correct code because, even though there is no error code showing in the log (see next paragraph), the dashboard is still displaying a 'low battery charge' and my car still will not start; it just turns over & does not attempt to fire. Just to add some context to the above, I was having issues with very rough running, which came on all of a sudden last week, rendering my car undrivable. Aside from the reasonably violent engine vibrations, I was seeing a considerable amount of white smoke leaving the exhaust and drastically reduced power. After thorough investigations I was satisfied my head gasket is intact. Incidentally, the white smoke did not smell very nice, but not 'eggy' as would be expected with the CAT; it was a combination of bad smell & petrol I think. I also smelt petrol in the oil filler, and coupled with a low fuel pressure error code and much research I concluded the High Pressure Fuel Pump needed replacing. I installed a brand new Hitachi HPFP, which has made a difference to the consistency of the rough running, i.e. less erratic. After further investigations I concluded the PCV had most likely failed, maybe in relation to the HPFP failing. I therefore installed a new PCV (oil separator), and a fuel pressure sensor while I was at it, but my engine has not started since; the installation of the PCV & Sensor/Sender is around the time my car power state changed to 'energy management active'. My opinion is, I need to install the correct code for my new battery & car combination, or at least equivalent code i.e. 70Ah / 700A / AGM. As I've previously mentioned, I suspect the code installed may be incorrect as I have been seeing power issues on my car for over 2 years; I don't know in what context the code may be wrong, but it would make sense, especially considering the persistent low battery charge error on my dashboard. To add, the battery is only 4 years old and I've only driven an average of 4k miles each year. Any help, thoughts or opinions would be gratefully appreciated, and a correct code would be blooming marvellous...!!! Thanks for your time. Paul.

That sounds bad. Didn't your engine warn you the oil was low? I'm wandering if adding extra oil simply temporarily disguised the issue...

Hi, It is possible that, despite it being tight, it could be at its limit of tension. How does it run, aside from the noise? Mine started the same as yours, and seemed to mostly go away once started. The noise got gradually worse, and louder, and lasted longer, until the balance shaft chain eventually fell off, which stopped the water pump working and caused a breakdown that I needed to be recovered from. I did all the work myself in the end, as I received quotes of 3 or 4 thousand £ at least (no one knew or cared & just didn't want to do it!). One garage charged me £350 just to have a look, mess it up, and tell me what I already knew...! I forgot that around 7 years ago I had the timing chain changed at a garage, which cost £800, and as it turns out, they only changed the 1 main chain, and they caused a blockage on my main oil inlet from the oil pump as they'd used too much sealant to put the chain cover back on...!! There are 3 timing chains on mine, which I replaced myself. I also replaced all the guides and the tensioner. It turns out that I had several issues, which included the chains, guides, tensioner and a knackered inlet camshaft. As I was trying to diagnose the above I also replaced the oil pump (Audi), the water pump (Inna), various sensors (aftermarket), the oil (2 or 3 times, LiquiMoly), the serpentine belt tensioner (aftermarket), the inlet camshaft (aftermarket, but turned out to be the Audi supplier!), all the cam lifters (inlet & outlet, Inna), the charcoal thingy at the back (Audi), the high pressure fuel pump gasket (it was folded on one corner! Audi)), the pcv valve (Audi), the cam cover (eBay), the water thermostats (aftermarket), the cam bridge (removed the filter mesh! Same as camshaft), the 4 ignition coils (aftermarket high end), the camshaft adjuster & magnet (same as camshaft), the crank bolt (Audi), the serpentine belt (aftermarket), the oil level sensor (Audi), and probably something else too I have no doubt. It ended up costing me around £1,500 for all the parts (I bought them from Germany and some from Audi), but I didn't need them all. Although, my engine has run better for the last 2 or so years than it did when I bought it...! I know that's not what you wanted to know, but that's what I did. 😁

Update: No adverse affects...

Hi all, I have an update... Lol Loud scraping noise = destroyed Balance Shaft Chain & Crank Cog Teeth. Remedy = New Timing Chain & Crank Cog. I did the work myself, which took an age of learning and an age of fixing, but it's all good now. 😁 Thanks, Paul.

Hi all, How's things? I have an issue I caused today. I was tightening 2 bolts on my Crank Cover, to 8 Nm + 45°, and the back of not just one, but 2 screw holes 'pinged' off as I tightened the screws. Now, you could say that maybe I used the wrong screw, but they are all the same shape & size, so not sure what or why. Anyway, all that aside, as I was simply !Removed! the screw in to the hole, the back of a hole on the left of the Crank Cover popped off with a ping. It's a clean break & I'm not sure it will have any adverse affect, if any. I then went and did the same to another screw hole back on the right side of the Crank Cover...! I can only assume I missed 2 shorter screws, but I don't see how. It is possible that they both had a little silicone residue & the pressure simply caused the backs to pop off, I don't know. My question is, am I right in thinking there will be no adverse affect? Thanks all in advance, Paul.

Hi Gareth, That was a mighty fast reply...! I've been driving it about since yesterday without any problems. It now drives as it did 5 years ago. I also have no engine codes at all now, which is the first time for around 4 years...! When I start the engine the noise I mentioned is quite loud, but as it comes up to temperature it quietens and can only just be heard; while driving I cannot hear it at all. The noise is definitely not inside the block. As far as I can tell it's timing chain related, i.e. most likely the chain adjuster, or could even be one of the guides, but less likely. I'm going to purchase an adjuster, and maybe a chain guide kit, and replace it/them. It's not a job I relish though, because working on the top with the cam ends is easy as you only have to slide the front forward on 2 long and appropriate bolts, but for the lower end I'd need to either take the front off (oil and water removal), or at least remove the radiator to provide access; any advice on that...? I'm not going to drive it now until I've checked/fixed, just in case. Thanks, Paul.

Right, here is an update. I replaced the Auxillary Belt Tensioner and Belt, started the engine while the belt was removed, and the scraping noise still occured. I've also replaced the Cambridge, the Cam Adjuster and the Cam Magnet, but the noise persists. The engine is running better now and the tickover is slightly lower. The noise became slowly quieter over 5 minutes after replacing these parts, but persists... The noise sounds like it's revolving at around 1 - 2 times per second on tickover, so I have to surmise it's timing chain related, maybe the chain adjuster, but metal on metal...? Thanks, Paul.

Hi Gareth, Thanks for the above advice. It's obvious now you've said it... Lol Thanks, Paul.

Hi Gareth, Hope all is ok. I think I may have found the issue. I believe the Cam Bridge Mesh had disintegrated and part of it found its way in to the VVT Solenoid. I took the Solenoid Magnet off, turned the engine on the force oil to escape the Solenoid, and a small piece of metal appeared in the oil on the bottom rim. My car appears to start eat time now, but I now have another issue with an incredibly loud noise coming from either the timing area, one of the pumps, the serpent belt tensioner or the alternator. I have started a new thread accordingly. Thanks, Paul.

Hi folks, how's things? I have a very loud Scraping / Grinding sound on front of my engine. The noise is external, as apposed to inside the block. It could be coming from either the timing area, the serpent belt adjuster, one of the pumps or the Alternator, I can't work out which. The first 3 days it made the noise I crapped myself, thinking the engine was about to explode, or something was going to fall off. By the time I opened the bonnet the noise had gone. The noise was/is like twisting a shuvel inside a metal bucket, but at a constant faster speed, maybe twice a second at tickover/idle, and scraping more on one side of the bucket than the other. After the choke closed the noise went away within a few seconds and the car drove without issue. On the 4th and 5th days the noise didn't go away, but again became quieter (more quiet) as the choke closed & the revs dropped, which I would think to be logical; it is still quite loud, as opposed to very loud. The noise does increase with revs, as I assume would be expected. The engine starts & runs ok, but does appear to run a little laboured, but only a little... I have my suspicions, but thought I'd throw it out there to see if anyone agrees. Any suggestions or advice would be appreciated and gratefully received. Thanks, Paul. Car: Audi A4 B8 2.0 TFSI Quattro S-Line 2009.

Hi Gareth, My apologies. The Cam Bridge is the part on the end of the 2 cams that contains the mesh filter that filters the oil before it's fed in to the end of the Cam Shafts for the VVT. Oil 'transits' was a word I used off the top of my head in an attempt to describe the tubes in the Cam Bridge & Cam Shafts that the oil flows through from the engine to the VVT. 😁 I've had the car for 5 years next month & I had the Timing Chain & sundries replaced around a year & a half after purchase as it went in to limp mode &, I was told, the chain had jumped 3 teeth as it had stretched & needed replacing; I'm a bit more knowledgeable about my car now & would query 3 teeth. I recently discovered that the mesh I mentioned above is missing (they would have to take the Cam Bridge off to replace the chain) and there are marks on the cam shaft ends that look suspiciously like they could have been made by a wondering mesh... Anyway, I digress. The current issues all started just over a year ago and have gradually got worse since. In an attempt to resolve I replaced the air filter (Mann), plugs (NGK) and Coils (NGK) around 6 or 7 months ago, which made only a slight improvement. I broke down in October and had to be recovered. After research I concluded the PCV valve was faulty, replaced it and et voila. However, I still had other issues. I tested the new coils by replacing them with the old, but no change. I had no miss-fires on any cylinder, so concluded the plugs were ok. Around 2 weeks ago I replaced the N80 Evaporator valve, as I was having issues starting after refuelling, but no change, except that it is easier to start after refuelling, so that's good... 3 days ago I replaced the Camshaft Sensor, but that made only a small improvement in starting, but not massively. I've looked at fuel relay & CTS issues, but my car symptoms & codes (see above) don't fit. However, they do fit a blocked or faulting Cam Bridge & related 'transits', i.e. codes P0011, P000A and P0341. 😁 I just wondered what your thoughts on this might be... Just to add, I think the possible 'mesh' damage may have been caused when the previous owner had it (although, I cannot dismiss the possibility of the chain replace garage not causing the damage & not telling me, in order to avoid blame). The missing mesh could potentially cause a blockage over a long period of time & I think I would notice if the mesh dislodged and was ultimately forced through the Camshaft mechanisms. One thing that gives it away is the fact the car had been towed (attempted); I know this because the towing eye has stripped the thread from its mount & quattros cannot/should not be dragged... All work on the car had been reported to me when I purchased, however, when I got home from my mammoth 4.5 hour drive home, I noticed the front bumper looked odd, like it didn't fit & after an investigation I discovered it hadn't been refitted properly after being removed. To add, the car was serviced and maintained by the same garage that sold it to me. At the time of collection, they skillfully missdirected my attention from a couple of others faults, non-locking petrol cap, faulty central locking switch, etc. I know they did this because when I discovered the faults I recalled their words at the time of collection... The garage in question has since gone out of business (around 3 years ago) due to further discovered issues. I'm sorry, there's a lot of waffle, but I hope it affords some form of helpful insight. Thanks, Paul.