Harris

Is there any way to bleed air out of the system other than topping up the water tank? the car didn’t overheat prior to me swapping the radiator. It had been loosing coolant more and more since last July and I was at the point I had to top it up every time I got in it. The old rad was rusted out all over and leaked from most of the vanes. I changed it with a brand new radiator from euro car parts as Audi didn’t have one in stock and with lock down had to order from the factory I only drained water from the rad bottom bleed screw before I removed it- as the rad was so blown not much more came out- the heater control in the car was set to 22 but turned off before shutting down the engine the last time I drove it as I knew I was going to remove the air con rad I have not taken it to be regarded as it’s now over heating since I changed the rad I noticed the car got to temp fine but would then creep past 80 ( normal running temp) to the next marker on the gauge (halfway between the middle and red) at that point the low coolant level flashes up. I waited for about ten mins before opening the water bottle but it was still under pressure and most of the water in the tank came out so topped it up and refilled drove it again and it over heaters any advice guys would be great

Hi again ive changed the radiator on my V6 after putting up with a slight leak for the past year. works fine, well the radiator does but now the car overheated and the low coolant level light comes on despite there being no sign of leakage. My first thought was that the thermostat has failed in the shut position but after discovering that changing that would require a cam belt change I was hoping it was something else Any ideas welcomed

Anyone know where the thermostat is located not in the place I expected it to be

Decided to replace pipes so cut them off

Also same assembly bottom right ive found a metal clip that slots it I’ve removed both of them very rusty and I think might have snapped as one side is longer than the other plastic fittings still not budging

Hi guys Im stripping out my cooling system so dismantled my front end to get the radiator out at the top left hand corner of the rad is a pipe that splits into two the thicker pipe feeds from the engine and the thinner pipe feeds from the coolant tank they both feed into a plastic housing which attaches to the rad. I need to remove this to get the rad out but not sure how and don’t want to break it im guessing it just twists out but don’t want to break it in case I’m wrong any ideas????

Thanks steve the guy I bought it from claimed they’d both been replaced but 123 bank leaks into the V and 456 bank leaks into the spark plug holes. I was going to just try and refit them but the price for Audi gaskets was actually lower than my local motor factors. I did ask Audi if they had a torque setting manual or something that listed what the settings were but the guy didn’t have a clue what I was on about- think I was just unlucky to get the wrong person on the phone that day

Hi guys thought I’d update you all on progress with my issues As you all know from my battery charging paranoia post I bought a new battery ( for the record the old battery did charge up and starts the car as it always has done- but only holds 80% charge) Ive checked all fuses and relays and done system checks on both old and new batteries- all fine and no fault codes. So the only reason I can deduce from cutting out was due to flooded pistons I’m going to service it this week - new plugs and filters- and will swap over the coolant temp sensor too I need to replace the rocker cover gaskets so if anyone knows the torque settings for the 2.4 V6 I’d be grateful next job- wishbone bushes: anyone done them? Is it straight forward? Opened the roof for the first time this year- didn’t go very smoothly so have noticed a link to another forum post that looks useful thanks again guys

Thanks Guys We’re on the same page chaps- I’ve decided to take the car off the road whilst I’m home and tackle all the outstanding jobs and the new ones I’ve come across like rocker cover gaskets and I think a power steering fluid leak. The MOT is due in July it has a raft of advisory’s that I should address. But I do think I can round off this thread by saying “yes” my battery was as all signs indicated- defective. Battery has now been replaced- going to have a poke about tomorrow and see if I can figure out why it cut out in the first place: Will update that in my original thread Thanks Guys

Thanks Steve that’s it i will need the spare key though I’ve left that at work......

You are right about the battery and it’s my biggest concern as from experience in the past with Jags- once they’ve flattened they’re never the same again and as I’ve pointed out this is an old battery so I’ve ordered a new one ( just £80) kids are off out for a walk with mum shortly so going to have a look at the connections as a bad one won’t do a good or bad battery any favours no longer any point of checking fuses as it’s started with no errors- no fault codes either which surprised me as we all know the battery is not 100%. Key fob is not working since I’ve got it going and I’ve forgotten the reset procedure- I’m sure someone has posted that on here so will do a search later ive found a brand new Audi branded coolant temp sensor in with the bag of parts that came with the car from its previous owner- bonus

Ok I should be happy but I’m not! it started..... started as usual other than the ESP light coming on which is normal after you disconnect the battery running a tiny bit lumpy (it’s been stood for a week) I drove it the few hundred yards home (drove fine) let it stand and get to temp. Turned it off and left it to stand for ten mins and it started again as usual. Lots of moisture from the exhaust so held it at 2000rpm until the white spoke cleared. Runs fine Didn't want to take it for a run as I don’t quite trust it The battery does need replacing although it is still starting it Doesn’t answer the question as to why it cut out other than my first assumption of too much fuel in the cold cylinders Kids started playing up so had to come in but will still do all my checks tomorrow and still waiting for the spark plug socket to arrive in the post So stay tuned and I will update tomorrow

Thank Gareth good advice i will admit I am stressing out over this and probably over thinking it. A wife and two kids and a mortgage on top of running a car that’s probably impractical. It’s difficult to justify these costs upon the family budget so thank you everyone for your patience and indulgence sadly Bude has very little in terms of businesses at the moment- it’s a remote seaside town that relies on tourism so I will stick it in the boot of my wife’s car and take a drive out. Power should be my first port of call and with the vast array of electrical components on these modern cars a weak battery is only going to stand in my way will report back later have a great Thursday every one

Modern cars are an electrical nightmare sensors and switches and modules and relays- there is a part of me that longs for a Ford Cortina sadly my neatest Halfords is 40 miles away but I did think about that what I meant by the fourth or fifth rotation of the engine is Put the key in and turn it and the engine turns over two or three times then fires. Mine on the first turn of the key turns over four maybe five times before it fires you’re right though a good battery does make sense But- here is my issue: I can afford a new battery or a new Audi fuel pump or new Audi temp sensor but two of these would put a strain on the family finances in the face of a continued lock down. So by doing the above basic checks (and now check connectors) I’m hoping I can identify the cause of the problem. you’re on to something with the starter motor- I bought the car in June last year. About a week after I bought it I started but got distracted and didn’t let go of the key once it fired. The starter motor didn’t disengage and the car made an awful rattling noise until I quickly turned it off. Never had a problem with it since but the concern has always stayed with me. it’s rained today in sunny Bude so I’ve not been out to it (water and electrics don’t mix and I don’t want more problems) so new check list 1) check fuses relays and connections (starter and other connections) still need to look at plugs too 2) tank pump 3) temp sensor if no joy from above I appreciate this is a 17 year old car but it has been well looked after and has a fully stamped Audi service history and main dealer receipts for all the work done over its lifetime. if this had happened any other time of year I’d have just transported the car to Audi and told them to fix it having said that I now know more about this car than any other I’ve owned so I feel more confident for its future in my ownership thanks guys

You are confirming my paranoia- in all honesty confirming what I already know its an old battery and it takes four or five turns of the engine before it fires (still fires first turn of the key but on the fifth engine rotation) The RAC charger just has two LED lights one to say charging and one to say full and the full light is still not lit. I was hoping that the as the charger was so crappy and my battery so big that’s why it wasn’t reaching full charge- just wishful thinking The reason I bought the charger is when I tried to jump start it from my wife’s car it seemed to cut off all power. I put a brick on the wife’s accelerator and got in the Audi and turned the key and got nothing not even dashboard warning lights until I disconnected them which concerned me ( yes I checked and double checked the leads were on correctly) i am going to try it again later checks to do when I have power: 1) fuses and relays and add a gallon of fuel in case my gauge is faulty 2) tank pump (I can hear the injection pump prime under the bonnet but there are that many things that fire up and him when you turn the key I’m going to lift the back seat 3) if a above ok coolant temp sensor- but I think the only way I can check that is by replacing if I do get charge in the battery and can connect jump leads to boost the power then hope would be that I have sufficient voltage to trick the car into thinking the battery is at 100% thanks again guys

Sounds like you have an issue Auto Works on Stevenson Road churchfields industrial estate note of caution: at least a 45 min drive at speed there- if you have a problem this could make it worse. Either get it towed to seek out an independent Audi VW guy in Bournemouth sorry I can’t be any further help good luck

If it’s the same as the TT then right hand side of the engine under the turbo sorry can’t be any more help than this I’ve only ever had a 99 plate 1.8t A6 and a 2001 TT 1.8t and that never ran my A4 is the first Audi I’ve worked on good luck

More qualified people on here than me that could help you further but I’ve always been told that it’s grey or blue smoke you should worry about as white smoke is usually steam- but then my logic asks why would steam come from your exhaust???? had a similar issue on a v8 Jag the questions asked then was is performance affected? does it only do it when at idle? or does it billow out white smoke as you drive? most would assume water is getting into the pistons so check the oil and make sure it’s the right colour and not like mayo .check the coolant and make sure that has no oil or carbon in it. you say it’s not loosing any so it could be nothing but worth getting it checked out. cant recommend anyone in Bournemouth as the guy in Charminster is no longer trading but there is a great guy in Salisbury who specialises in Audi VW on churchfields sorry I can’t be any help but good luck

As you know my 2.4 V6 wont start and on trying to get it started I flattened the battery just enough power to light the engine management lights on the dash but hazards were just a dull glow and not enough power to use central locking. Living Bude the only place open that sells battery charges is B&M Bargins so I bought a £15 RAC 4 amp charger yesterday and put it on charge around 16:30. The charge light lit up and I’m still waiting for the fully charged light to I light nearly 26 hours later. im starting to think my battery is toast does anyone have any idea how long a battery should take to charge? I did hear Once that running your battery to empty does kill it but this was from a bloke in a pub- I’m not entirely sure he was qualified but it did make sense lock down is crippling me financially I am faced with either a coolant temp sensor or a new fuel pump replacement and we all know what Audi charge for these the thought of an additional £100 for a battery is stressing me out im hoping someone out there has done the same thing and it took them many many hours to charge theirs

I’m new on here too and new to Audi’s but I’d imagine that most engines would slot straight in the only obstacle I can see would be your wiring loom and engine management unit when I started looking for my A4 Convertible I did look at the 1.8 and noticed that the 1.8t unit was probably the most developed So I’d imagine that each variant would differ enough to affect compatibility although this is just an assumption but there are a vast number of knowledgeable guys on here who could confirm or dismiss my assumptions good look

Cheers guys much appreciated battery is on charge- been on charge since 5pm yesterday so either it was really flat or I’ve killed it going to check the fuses and relays and will test the fuel pump once I have power again it’s still sat in Morrison’s car park so really need to get it back here AA won’t do it as it’s only 300m from my front door and any recovery firm still operating want £160 I did get the wife to try and tow me but she’s heavy footed and managed to rip out the towing eye i need to change the water pump so will probably swap out the temp sensor although will try and put that off as lock down is depleting my funds (actually the kids are) My other obstacle is everything I need is only available via mail order so I get so far and then have to stop and wait for the postman thanks for your input and if you have any other ideas let me know- now would be a good time to attend to anything that may cause a problem in the future

Hi Steve it was the Morrison’s petrol station near my house. I didn’t actually get to put any fuel in it. It cut out when I pulled up to the pump. Normally I use Shell and BP petrol and they’ve been fine. I only pulled into Morrison’s as I had just 20 miles on the range and needed to travel 28 miles to my nearest shell garage. how could it be coolant temp sensor? the car was just started after being sat all night. But I do have a leaking water pump so you could be onto something if I understood more about how it affects it

Hi guys I need your help my 2002 A4 2.4 convertible won’t start it cut out at the petrol station round the corner (still fuel in the tank) the other morning. I did think it had flooded being so cold and only running for a few minutes but I left it a few hours and still no joy the battery is good although I manage to flatten it trying to start it but it’s charged up again fine ive not checked spark as need a spark plug socket but instinctively think it’s fuel delivery Do you guys have any idea or have you come across this before?