Ryanm8655

Thanks for the reply, that’s helpful and sensible advice, which I’ll heed. Had a quote now. O/S front is £115 including labour N/S front is £197 including labour but might change as a part of it can be tricky. Minor oil leak £80 including labour. That’s about a quarter of the cars value so think i’ll leave it for now and see what comes up on the MOT. Thanks!

Thanks for the reply. It was done by a local independent who family members have been using for a number of years. Very knowledgeable and experienced and reasonably priced (£155 for a full service - I’m in the south). The MOT was originally due on the same day but has now been extended to November thanks to COVID. He didn’t imply it was dangerous or anything, just that I’m going to end up with uneven tyre wear and as one of the tyres will need replacing in the near future (has 3mm remaining), then I might want to get it sorted sooner rather than later. He also implied the turbo oil leak is minor and nothing urgent. He’s going to price it all up. I do notice the suspension knocking slightly when going over bumps but previously I’ve had a lot of brand new cars. He also mentioned it as a minor issue when I had the cambelt done in September last year but it does seem to have gotten worse. They were marked as advisory items on the invoice and the impression I get is that they are advisories rather than urgent. It would be it’s first MOT in my ownership but I have had the cambelt done previously and it had a bit of a look over then where some of the same issues were raised but to a lesser extent. I bought it privately with about 8/9 months of MOT remaining. Looking through the MOT history and advisories were disappearing, plus the service book is full of stamps (first 80k or so with Audi). It had similar advisories for the rear suspension at around 90k, which appeared to have been resolved. I did have a mk1 TT many years ago where the suspension knocking was far more prevalent and it wasn’t raised on the MOT, so I don’t know if it just depends on how detailed the tester is... I’m happy to get the work done, as long as it isn’t going to be uneconomical and is going to prevent further issues down the line. My plan would be to do so in the next month or so. I’ve only done about 5k miles since purchasing in August last year and with COVID am driving much less (take it for a 2 hour drive once a week just to clear the dpf and charge the battery). I was going to go ahead and do the MOT anyway but I am planning on getting rid of the car early next year and go back to brand new, so was thinking it would be good to have a longish MOT for resale (though may trade it in depending on what I’ll get). So I guess a) if it’s going to mean the car lasts until January in good working order and b) if the cost of the repair helps it maintain value then it makes sense to do it and get it out of the way. If I planned to keep it more long term then I’d just bite the bullet. Generally it’s a great little run around for the price and solid for its age, plus I know it’s had big things done. I just miss the mod cons a newer car has and can also get pretty sweet lease deals. Thanks, Ryan

Hi all, I’ve got a 2005 A4 2.0 TDI Avant CVT that I bought just under a year ago. It’s now approaching the 150k miles mark. Has FSH, been serviced at least once a year, had things done on schedule. I got the cambelt and water pump done when I bought it as well. I’ve just had a full service done, since it was due and as part of the service it’s been given a health check and quite a few things need repairing: 1) slight oil leak - turbo area 2) n/s/f top suspension arm ball joint worn 3) o/s/f lower rear suspension arm bush worn 4) all front suspension bushes deteriorating 5) wear inner driveshaft joints I’m reasonably car literate but am not a mechanic and while I know what those things are I have no idea how serious those issues are... Can anyone advise on how concerned I should be? What’s worrying and why? I spoke to the mechanic, who’s a nice guy and reasonably priced. He recommended getting the suspension sorted in the near future as there is quite a bit of movement that is going to ruin tyres under breaking. Re: turbo he said something to the effect of it’s likely just a seal where it connects to the engine needs replacing and it’s only minor. I didn’t notice the driveshaft point until just now, re-reading the invoice. Is this a concern? I suspect a lot of it is part and parcel of owning a vehicle that’s 15 years old and approaching the 150k mile mark. Also any guidance on price and what’s needed much appreciated. A final thing...the rear windscreen washer doesn’t function, any ideas on a fix? Suspect it is a motor or something... Thanks!