beemerboy9

...and it does make this noise when stopped in neutral? Assuming no noise in neutral, then it might well be the clutches inside the gearbox. It might also be worth checking the engine mounts as well - if they are hydraulically damped, one might have leaked. Hopefully someone will be along with more suggestions.

I amazed that DAB was still on option (code QV3) on the early A6 C7's. Based on hearsay, I would contact DH Automotive in Falkirk and ask if they know of a retrofitter near you. Hope this helps........

With all the concerns about diesel emissions, Dieselgate and low emission zones in cities, I totally understand your desire to go for a petrol A6/S6. You have purchased an autobahn crusher for use on our speed-restricted island. You should certainly tell your insurance company about the tune unless you have it returned to standard - when it will still be very rapid. Playing devil's advocate, unless your accident involves excessive speed, I doubt the insurance company would have cause to investigate. If you are going to potter around, just leave the gearbox in drive rather then sport mode (comfort rather then dynamic). Dynamic mode is better used on smaller A roads and B roads when unnecessary upward changes are minimised.

Hi, There are 518 2014-onwards Avants for sale on Autotrader, of which 443 are Automatics. The A6 is an "executive car" and there mostly chosen as autos, as most "executives" want the gears changed for them! Now you know why manuals are well priced. A manual A6 will be easier to shift then a manual Mercedes E-class however.

It depends how bad the judder is. Many of the 7-speed S-tronic boxes have an very mild judder on take-off and are then as smooth as butter. I'd still make that phone call and describe the symptoms to the experts. Audi will probably try to sell you another gearbox.☹️

From the websites "Despite the advantages it offered, such as smoothness and improved fuel efficiency, the multitronic system experienced malfunctions. The multitronic transmission faced electronic glitches and mechanical issues. Models that feature the six-plate clutch pack that was introduced before or around 2006 were particularly affected. Symptoms Include Flashing gear selector (PRNDS indicator) on the dashboard Hesitation and/or shuddering during acceleration Inability to select reverse gear Audi recommends CVT transmission fluid changes at 35,000 and 75,000 miles, however despite this, in some cases transmission failures still occurred even when abiding by the recommended fluid changes" I would still speak to Milta first. Check the service history at an Audi dealer. Almost 90,000 miles is way too late for the fluid change - it's really chancing it. Did you but the car from a dealer. Maybe call the previous owner and ask whether he was aware of the problem.

If it's a 7-speed S-tronic auto, your best bet is to talk to Milta in Bristol . These guys are experts in DSG gearboxes. All gearboxes have oil. It could be the clutch pack or the mechatronic unit on the auto. The clutch packs can be either dry (sealed for life, no oil required) or wet (advised servicing every 37,000 miles) depending on the model&year.

The ULEZ compliance is important. Very few petrol 2.0 around. The diesel will do 45 mpg, the petrol only 30 mpg. Any car will do 150k miles if you keep servicing it. The A6 is a car built fpr German Autobahns.

ULEZ compliance will be an issue for pre-2015 3.0 diesels. The 245PS diesel is certainly not compliant - which why they are cheap. Even the 2-litre diesel is plenty torquey enough for your intended use profile. If you want the car to have value at resale time, go for a 2015-on car.

With an Allroad, you will be fine with a set of generic roof bars for cars with raised roof rails (e.g. the £35 set). For an Avant with flush roof rails, I would be more fussy and go for the genuine ones or a set from Atera, who are one of the OE suppliers to VW/Audi.

Hi Eduard, I was browsing through some old Audi road tests the other day. The average fell consumption of the A4 TDi 150 tested in May 2016 was 57.8 mpg and that of an 190 equivalent was about 10 mpg less. So there is some compensation.

Well I cannot see where on the ad it says 150 BHP. The thing to do is to look in the spare wheel well and read the engine power from the build code label stuck there or look in the owners manual.. Hopefully it will show the power in PS and KW. 150PS would have been an Ireland special as I believe the lowest power diesel engine in the UK was 177HP. Wouldn't it be wonderful if under the bonnet there was a 150KW 3 litre V6.

I'm off to have a set of Alloygators fitted tomorrow. I just don't trust myself.

What wheel/tyre combination have you got?