Stevey Y

Hi if you are a qualified mechanic all good but you will be very aware the same as I am that the only cars you will retain monetary value on are cars bought cheap with a problem, then having fixed said problem you may keep it for a while then sell it. Steve.

Hi just looked at the price, are you insane, you could get so much more for that sort of money or something new and twice as good for about half that.

Hi if you as you say are not well off why are you after a car like this the recent service bill should give you a clue, these cars are big money to run and parts are scarce therefore commmand a premium even second hand well used parts, as for holding the value I think not, you may well have a hard time selling it when it has a few more miles, why do you think the two previous owners sold it on, its called cutting before any major bills, at that milage the problems are not far away, take your money and buy something newer preferably not Audi. Steve.

Hi if its a new module it will need coding to the car but if the brake is working it can't be that, what're you trying to clear the code with?. Steve.

Hi this is what happens when you stick to 18000 mile service intervals which don't take in to account driving style or ambient temperature, its a selling gimmick, in thirty odd years of of involvement with various makes and models I can categorically state NO ENGINE OIL lasts 18,000 miles, there is a mountain of information on line to support this, the oil thins and loses its lubricity which is why internal components fail, when you get a new engine 9000 miles between services is as far as you can reasonably stretch. Steve.

Hi it depends how near to the DAB aerial you have fitted any cable for the camera if you have run the rear anywhere through the head liner the whole cab needs suppressor units every foot, it also depends if you have hard wired the unit, which brand of camera do you have they all have their own little quirks. Steve.

Hi the fact that you have only found repro units should be a clue and at the end of the day as long as they work is anyone really going to notice that they are not oe. Steve.

Hi I think your model may have the sensors in the rims, only way to find out which wheel is the wrong un is to get the car scanned. Steve.

Hi there are two level sensors under the back seat the problem one is the main tank sensor which involves taking out the seat squab and undoing the sealing cap and replacing the unit. Steve.

Hi I don't know what you are on about, changing the sensor is a joy, the bolt holding it in is nearly always seized and then you have the fabulous prospect of getting the new one in at the right angle without disturbing the reluctor ring on the crank seal, take in to account the swear box bill, buy the mechanic a beer. Steve.

Hi the oil sensor is common I had two on my car the oil is probably coming from the sump seal mine did that too, they also delight in leaking from the front crank seal and the cam shaft seals, they also leak from the oil cooler and the rear crank seal thats why there's a hole where the gearbox meets the engine to let it run out and spray down the under tray and cross member for the gearbox, you will always be playing chase the ace with leaks, rocker cover injector seals are another source of oil buying habits, I swear Audi have shares in Quantum Steve

Hi there is only one VCDS, I would recommend the single VIN version if you intend to keep the car, the OBDEleven is a lot cheaper but of late I have found this system will do what you want but only if you have the Pro subscription which is over £100 a year therefore the VCDS represents better value as once purchased its yours with free updates. Steve.

Hi thats better I think a good spray with WD40 and then try twisting it, try left and right gently I have a feeling the end that goes in the filter cover has some sort of locking tabs. Steve.

Hi can you post a picture of the new sensor both ends

Hi I think you are suffering from the latest Audi bright idea, make the sensor and the filter cover one piece. Steve

Hi if it stands for a long time the only thing that deteriorates is the pad sensor wires easy enough to replace and cheap enough aftermarket. Steve.

Hi not come across this before, is it a grey import ? and can you get the part number off of the old unit as that may shed some light. Steve

Loads of stripping down therefore it would be wise to replace everything down there, you won't want to do it twice, also you will need to adhere to any torque settings for bolts. Steve.

Hi probably the oil cooler, not a nice job. Steve.

Hi I think you have solved it yourself as a broken bolt won't maintain uniform pressure on the gasket therefore water will escape. Steve.

Hi its obviously in its early stages, the reason it is slipping in higher gears is because of the torque load in higher gears, it used to be the old way of testing the clutch, find a nice hill and change up to early floor the throttle and if the clutch was good the engine would labour, if not it revved up, I would get it checked ASAP as when the clutch slips it creates a phenomenal increase in gearbox temps and cooks the rear crank seal which is a whole different story, having had it happen to me I can say its not a good day out. Steve.

Hi it sounds like the clutch is either contaminated on the friction plate or on its way out. Steve.

Hi ring the dealers and ask if your car was fitted with stop start, you will have to give them your VIN and if its not equipped with stop/start you are away, only piece of advice is buy branded and not some random make of battery that is dirt cheap and won't last long, the battery will need to be registered to let the ECU know it has a new battery. Steve.

Hi yes but the new module would have to be coded to the car, try and find a local car audio specialist who will be able to offer a hybrid solution rather than get in to major removal of the existing unit. Steve.

Hi sounds like the Haldex unit in the rear diff is on its way out this would put the car in to limp as its controlled electronically by a module. Steve.