Stevey Y

Hi could be the belt tensioner bearing or any idler pulley bearing in the circuit, did you have the alternator drive belt changed with the alternator, chances are if the noise was there before the new parts were fitted its one of the above, if it started after fitting it might be the alternator clutch [not unknown] depending on the brand of replacement unit. Steve.

Hi have you tried resetting the level on diagnostic equipment, only suggest that as what you have posted leans towards that, absent any code numbers its the only conclusion that can be drawn from the information supplied, the board is housed under the tank and can't be replaced as far as I am aware. Steve.

Hi if you are swapping to a buttoned wheel from non buttoned you will need the donor wheel and associated wiring loom and possibly another body control module which will leave it needing to be coded in to the new BCM to get it to work. Steve.

Hi more likely to be a sensor for the climate control.

Hi could be an earthing problem on that circuit for the bulbs or a corroded wire on the pin blocks worth checking the connectors, may be as simple as hosing them down with electric contact cleaner then check the lives and earths with a multimeter. Steve.

Hi Duncan did you actually read the posted reply properly, the guy was offering you alternative means of insurance should your company decline to insure you with the spacers fitted, why dont you ask your existing insurance company if they will accept this modification before going ahead and running in to a wall when they wont do it, most insurance companies view these types of modification very suspiciously as they may well unsettle the cars steering and suspension geometry, each insurance company has its own team of mechanical engineers who assess the possible impact of such changes, you seem to be adamant that you will do this anyway but you have not had the answer you wanted, just sound basic advice which you dont seem to want or pay any attention to, I wish you luck. Steve.

Hi I did get it fixed but I never got the chance to sell it as it rolled off of my local garage forecourt into the brick wall across the road, electro mechanical handbrake failure caused by a voltage drop on the battery which is another favourite trick of the cars from 2014-2017, no the price you have been quoted is not normal as I never paid more than £1600 for the cooler unit to be replaced bearing in mind you could only get the parts from Audi at around £700, now you can get aftermarket parts around £450, my advice would be to get the adblue mapped out and then the cooler fixed as cheaply as possible then get rid of it ASAP, beautifully made car body wise and a joy to drive BUT parts are ruinous price wise and as mine was used as a cab frequent, got a Passat estate now not as glamorous but is as nice to drive and any parts are about a third of the price. Steve.

Hi tight with no gaps.

Hi the exhaust system flush will not cure your problem, deleting the adblue may well solve that problem, the only way to cure P2002 is to replace the cooler and valve unfortunately I did it three times on my A6, its an inherent design fault which is like a disease without any real cure, if you listen to some of the waffle about delete this delete that its all wonderful which is why I sold the car a few months later. Steve.

Hi the part number is on the hose, alternatively go on line there must be the worlds supply of silicone replacements.

Hi its most likely the resistor that is the problem, most idiots put these things in rather than repair the offending module, this just leads to problems as when the resistor fails [chinese cr@p] it throws the whole baby out with the bath water, I think you will find the igniter is integrated in to the end of the airbag, the tragic consequences of such bodges is the airbags fail to deploy in a collision and just promote more serious injury, best policy is to engage an auto electrician which may engender some new parts as well. Steve.

Hi your headlights are HID I think you will find that they are fitted with D5S bulbs and for reasons only known only to type approval in Germany they do not qualify for washers even though they throw out an equivalent amount of light to the old D3S equipped units, which needed washers, D5S units use a lot less voltage than D3S/D1S bulbs therefore are considered a greener alternative as they extend battery/alternator life, also D5S will not burn the reflector bowls unlike the above mentioned and they also have an integral ballast unit built in to the bulb housing so no more guessing if its the bulb or the separate ballast that was fitted to D3S/D1S. Steve.

Hi I can't see that one myself as you would have to do that every time you changed the battery as far as I know the throttle data is stored in the ECU and only changes when you fit a new throttle valve therefore the values have to be reset as the new one will move the butterfly a lot more easily than the old clogged unit. Steve.

Hi could be the pulley but I doubt it unless you bought a real cheap one, sounds more like a belt tensioner or one of the idler pulleys. With regard to the shocks replace both as the new shock normally finishes off the old one plus it will make it turn and ride better. Steve.

Hi can hear a slight hissing which seems more like a belt idler pulley, the things I would be more worried by are the perishing on the tyre and the leaking shock absorber. Steve.

Hi I know some aftermarket tanks are sold with no bag which is the selling point, it depends on the shape of the tank if its round you can't remove it as it sits behind a second skin inside the tank, if its square you can fish it out with a pair of extra long needle nosed pliers. Steve.

Hi Sachs or LUK.

Hi my advice would be to leave well alone, the type of modifications you suggest may well throw the suspension geometry way out therefore taking it beyond any adjustment that currently exists naturally on the original set up, it is doable but will involve some serious spending as you will have altered the offset of the wheels massively with your current wheels being designed for that specific car. Steve.

Hi the compression readings should be between 140 and 175psi with no more than 10% variation between each cylinder, if its running rough I would seriously get it plugged in to see what else is wrong before throwing any money at it, dont get it done on a mates cheap code reader thats suicidal it either wont pick up true faults or pick up generic codes that dont relate to anything. Steve.

Hi you say the compression figures were low, as in how much lower than the figure quoted for ideal?, most oil pressure systems put on the light when the pressure drops to 4psi if it sinks any lower you will hear the big ends knocking, either way it wont do it any favours as Gareth said driving it like that, rather than lashing out on a new oil pump it will be better to drop the sump and remove the the caps on the crank one at a time and check that the big end shells are not scored or excessively worn if you do the first one and they are scored or the crank journal has scores dont bother with rest of them as you can guarantee the rest are the same or worse, in this case either get a refurbished engine or have your unit reconditioned with a new oil pump, personally I never use anything other than O.E. pumps and if you use reverse logic, if the original pump has managed 150k there is no reason why it wont do it again. Steve.

Hi go on ebay there is a guy on there doing refurbed units with the valve for about £200, other than that you can buy an aftermarket cooler for around £300 and then the valve for about another £180, the refurb units are all genuine and a mate of mine bought one for his Skoda and to be honest you can't tell the difference except the price and they are all genuine VAG units, I think the company is called aft and has no bad feedback. Steve.

Hi go on LLL carparts online and put in your VIN number, its an online parts store that should give you an exploded diagram with the part number, judging by the last picture I think it will probably be sold as a whole unit in which case you might be better served going second hand the whole unit number is under the Bosch logo in the last picture looks like 561 b?. Steve.

Hi I think you have an airlock get the system re bled, other than that flush the whole system there something causing the lack of flow, if its auto check the thermostat for the gearbox oil cooler. Steve.

Hi its most likely a dodgy relay, just had it on my daughters Q3, changed the relay all good. Steve.

Hi even if your vehicle is non UDS that wont affect the coding of the battery as non UDS just means that it mainly concentrates on monitoring emissions equipment, EGR, fuelling and ignition/injection protocols, full UDS was developed to encompass recoding of components all over the car as well as fault finding and code clearance. Steve.