Stevey Y

Hi the sticky throttle valve will cause strain on the pedal sensor and quite possibly fry its location discs I normally replace both items when one goes, IE the throttle body they generally wear as a set, if you were looking to buy a car thats cheap to repair you have unfortunately bought an Audi which will never be cheap to fix even the old ones, if you stick a new sensor on with the old throttle it will most likely kill the new sensor in record time, no part has an infinite life/milage span and often as not you have to bite the bullet and just replace the parts. Steve.

Hi it is from memory not part of the pedal but its attached to the side of it, but if you are not that bothered by it leave it until it breaks then replace it. Steve.

Hi it could well be the throttle position sensor on the pedal it should be showing about 23% at idle. Steve.

Hi when injectors are renewed unless you are really lucky and dont go mad tightening the feed pipes up you normally need to use new feed pipes tightened to the correct torque, diesel has what's known as capillary action and will seep through the smallest gap, you can try just giving the unions just the smallest tweak to see if that solves the problem but if whoever fitted the injectors has tightened the unions very tight you run the risk of snapping something or increasing the leak where the pipe union seal has become deformed. Steve.

Hi, I would like to dispel the myth that coding a battery is only for stop start equipped vehicles, with the advent of smart charging systems circa 2000 the coding/registering of batteries is required to inform the ECU that a new unit is fitted therefore the charging parameters have to change from maximum charge most of the time for a failing unit to a more fluid regime I.E.the alternator will only step up its charging to near maximum to maintain the batteries prescribed optimum voltage when using lights, heated screen, higher levels of blower use during the summer/winter, now throw in a battery that has not the right amp hour requirements even if coded the alternator has to work twice as hard to maintain the optimum voltage for that unit thus accelerating the alternator wear factor, when you consider old charging systems had to use a regulator to dissipate over voltage conditions by running the excess charge to ground, the new systems are smart insomuch as this never occurs and the alternator ceases to charge via the free wheeling clutch on the alternator until more voltage is required, hence the alternators generally speaking last longer. Steve.

Hi its probably the Cat becoming clogged my first go personally would be to give it a dose of Cataclean then if its still playing up you may well have to replace both oxygen sensors as generally speaking they trade information and if you renew one on a car that old it will cause the other older sensor to fail, trying to test oxygen sensors that old would be a waste of time, try the cleaner first. Steve.

Hi yes I agree with what you say in principle but the poster was asking what are the likely problems owning that model within a certain year band, the problem I quoted will happen at some point I had three coolers over 270k and it did not matter how much chemistry/care I lavished on the car that problem still persisted, there are legions of posts on this site about adblue and cooler problems its an inherent flaw with Audi A4/A6 within those years which is very much peculiar to the brand, you can't generalise its VAG engineering, no its Audi engineering, dont get me wrong I loved my car but over the miles the costs are prohibitive, ask yourself the question why are these cars being sold at around 80k, answer its around 80-100k the real fun and expense begins, I now have a VW Passat as a cab had it from 60k now on 100k and in terms of reliability and part costs it knocks spots off of the Audi and I would say in sports mode very little to choose between the two power wise as you are not dragging along all that weight. Steve.

Hi surprised no one has mentioned the dreaded low pressure EGR cooler thats common over the whole range of 2.0 engines CNHA,DETA .....what a hoot at around £600 for the parts and then the various gearbox seals etc, not to mention eight hours plus on the labour. Steve.

Hi Cliff please feel free to laugh at us but when they start charging the electricity from the chargers at a vastly inflated rate circa 2027 we will all be on a level playing field, you did not think they were going to miss out on that one in view of the drop in fuel duty they predict they will get, no its all shaping up nicely, far more VAT on the new overpriced milk floats and getting rinsed for the electricity the other end, the day will be here soon when everyone will have fond memories of £1.45 a litre instead of £1.80 + a unit for electric, then you have the added bonus of owning something that depreciates faster than a lead balloon, add to this the higher carbon rates to produce the balloon you begin to wonder what is the point, I think its a case of the Kings New Clothes, most sensible lateral thinking people just dont buy it. Steve.

Hi well gents you did not expect the zero rating to last ?, they have pulled this stunt before but you dont expect Ms Rayner to miss that grabbing opportunity do you. Steve.

Hi was the new battery coded to the car?, that would explain the lights on the dash if not, the low pressure fuel pump is probably he culprit for the fault, get them to check the live data on the pump when idling if its high it means the pump is struggling to keep up the pressure and is on its way out. Steve.

Hi either 27mm or 32mm unless they changed the sizes again, the correct size is stamped on the top of the housing. Steve.

Hi it should be on top of the cat but if you post a picture of the engine bay it should be easier to identify Steve.

Try looking for a delete kit it holds the flaps in the right position so they never move, no more lights. Steve.

Hi nothing will come up on the MMI, just get somebody to walk across the back of the car and the buzzer should sound. Steve.

Hi OE, Gates, Dayco, Continental, if you dont change the water pump you will live to regret that choice, most kits worth the money come with the lot, belt ,idler pulley, tensioner, water pump and new bolts. Steve.

Hi I really would not bother with the crankcase vent at the moment, the rear seal wont leak when the engine is static because the crank is not revolving, when the engine is running it will leak 360 degrees I would doubt the crank is worn, billet steel verses rubber, only ever going to be one winner, I had mine changed [2.0 CNHA] but they are basically the same, box out, flywheel off, ring gear plate removed then the seal unbolted it sits in a metal housing with the crank position reluctor ring, the engine will need to be timed to tdc on cylinder 1 and the witness mark on the reluctor ring directly opposite the marker on the casing, its a mission as you will need to replace the driveshaft seals as well as they are one hit wonders, the timing and pinning is crucial as if the reluctor ring alignment is not exact it wont start. Steve.

Hi on top of the turbo exhaust side.

Hi that one always comes up randomly just delete it and forget it until it next appears, its a scare code designed to get you to run off to a dealers. Steve.

Hi well done, there are a good few buyers of project cars on this site, try pm to Audi Kev, Magnet, Gareth can point you in the right direction. Steve.

Hi have you no price in mind as I can't see there being a bidding war with no starting price, no milage, any history?

Hi you could try changing the wiper blades that often solves a multitude of problems. Steve.

Hi the red circled bit is the part you want, just wondering if you landed on the part you intended to buy using the OE number?, if not I would definitely go to the LLL carports catalogue, enter your VIN and then go fishing with the part number, as for the picture on the other site that could be generic they tend to do that on these sites. Steve.

Hi the problem is thats the one thats likely to be a bit of a fight to get out as they corrode in, plenty of plus gas and some patience should prevail, bank 1 sensor 1 is a lot easier as its up top, thats the one I replaced. Steve.

Hi the cluster needs to be stripped out and sent for repair probably a dry solder joint. Steve.