Stevey Y

Hi which sensor was replaced?, any way all sensors are prone to failure at some point there is no hard and fast rule as to the milage they should achieve I had to replace my oxygen sensor at 80k Audi recommend changing them at 110k but what it all boils down to is the question of how long is a piece of string. Steve.

Hi Audi recommend draining the system every two years under normal circumstances/milage, I have never had to purge my system as its a cab and it never stays in the tank for longer than 9k so it gets 17 litres about every three months. I f it stays in the tank for to long it will crystallise and cause problems. Steve.

Try Octane booster it definitely works. Steve.

Hi I think you have answered your own question, revs are to low, might well be worth checking the hydro bushes on the engine mounts they are prone to failure around 100k. Steve.

Don't worry about a lack of CO2 Boris and Extinction Rebellion exhale more than enough to keep the trees happy, no I would worry more about the methane levels rising from all the brown stuff they spout. Steve.

Hi the trade off was for the escalating emissions targets, the loose engines as termed were produced as a looser fitting piston does not create as much friction as the conventional tight bore, less friction creates less emissions as it reduces the heat inside the bores thus cutting back on C02, every engineering principle for engines is that they run better when very hot but this has the side effect of raising emissions, Ford almost got round it with the CVH lean burn engine this ran hot but because of the lesser fuel charge it produced less emissions but unfortunately the oil technology at the time let it down. All modern petrol engines burn a little oil its part of the price we pay for driving new off the forecourt and thrashing it a couple of days later which further down the food chain won't help the second hand buyer. Steve.

Highly unlikely that the timing chain would stretch with that milage unlike cam belts chains don't suffer with age related change intervals, as for the oil consumption you will only find out what your chosen vehicles is after you buy it unfortunately, a good indicator would be service history as even the most basic garage knows the importance of low SAPS oil. Steve.

Hi that would suggest that you got away with it last time, but the fact that you have no recognised codings to allow the can gateway to initiate the commands to those functions the BCM thinks they don't exist, hence no codes believe me I did it with a BMW they all work on similar principals and the Audis are all documented on line for doing this, Google it and see.

Hi check your model but I am almost certain yours uses D3S xenon bulbs if you look on eBay the choice is staggering, the standard bulb are normally Phillips or Osram with a rating of 4300k you need to go to 5500-6000k bulbs to get a better light if you go beyond that they are to blue and will get the local plod interested, 6000k is almost daylight, the higher kelvin rating is just the light output the bulbs won't draw anymore wattage or cause faulty lighting issues on the dashboard as the body control module will recognise the new bulbs as long as the wattage remains the same as original. Try HIDs 4u or the best one is Valley lighting they will talk you through the options you have once you know what type of bulbs you have, installation is fairly straight forward if not a little fiddly, access is via the inspection ports in the wheel arch liner, plenty of youtube videos on the subject, LEDs are not that good as they tend to look much brighter but have no visible benefit in light output [Range] also with the higher end units require a can bus ballast plus you have the cooling units on the back which make the bulbs longer so you can't get the bulb cover back on, not a win win for no other benefit than aesthetics.

Hi steve, without doubt yes it works even better if you have no DPF as it only has the cat to deal with, therefore you should get even more noticeable results. Steve.

Hi did you have the BEM recoded to accept the new battery, the foolproof way to change the battery is to have a spare power supply to the jump terminals when changing as this prevents the window and any other ancillary from loosing its codings. Steve.

Hi please check Shytots post which is bang on the money, its not the octane rating that is the problem its weather your fuel pipes can withstand the onslaught of the extra 5% bio ethanol, check the government website or with the main Dealer.

Hi try a try thin bead of Tiger seal but be careful not to get it everywhere as once it goes off dynamite won't shift it. Steve.

Hi check the cam timing if you can it may well have slipped. Steve.

Hi is it just me or do the advertising wallahs think we are mentally deficient, I sit around listening to the radio when I am between jobs and here are the two most brain damaging adds that keep popping up, Mini have proof that nine out of ten dogs prefer going to the local park in a Mini, would have liked to have a video of that particular questionaire. Then we have the emissions claim company, is your car telling the truth about its emissions, ever tried having a conversation with your car, its a bit one way, maybe I should try water boarding it or just beat the engine with a tree branch like Basil Fawlty and hope it tells me, sad thing is their are some people who will believe this Dross but I don't think it will be any members of this forum

Hi the only problem wth rattle cans is the cans contain about 60% air and 40% solvent the rest is paint, if you get the wheels refurbed professionally their paint/solvent mix is about 30% solvent and the rest is paint therefore you get about a 30 micron sweep on the dust coat which accelerates to anything up to a millimetre with the wet coat and drys in record time, they also strip the wheels when prepping and use a fast drying Gell to fill in kerbing marks before priming, thats how they can produce a stunning guaranteed finish in eight hours and at around £50 a wheel it won't break the bank, if you find the right company [mobile ] they even come round your house and do it. Steve.

Hi good old A to Z same place I got mine they are not the cheapest but they don't sell cr@p unlike a certain Irish vendor on eBay. Steve.

Hi it depends what the roads are like where Alan lives, frequent potholes will wreck any suspension in record time hence the disappearance of the sensor ring. Steve

Hydra Maximus is the way to go, average of 100 miles a day a lot of it round town and the DPF has not blocked yet done 60k using it and it works. Steve.

Hi maybe you could give the guy some pointers, sometimes its hard if you have no idea where to look, glad you are pleased with your Kinetex set up, I was well impressed with mine even though I am running Don pads being as its a cab and I don't need to stand it on its nose very often but even with standard pads it will do it if I need it, not bad if you consider that they were half the price of the Audi discs/pads and I do about 700 miles a week had them on over two months and no signs of premature wear. Steve.

No you are right, you are not getting the fact that the bearing and sensor ring are a bolt in unit there is no pressing in of any bearing into any hub its all an integral unit that just bolts on to the knuckle they have designed this to cut down on interference fit machining, it's the difference between 2006 and 2015 technology. Steve.

No worries I have normally found that the gear box manufacturers either hide the switches at the rear of the box or just a simple plunge switch that is activated mechanically by the gear stick, worth a try though. Steve.

Hi there must be a multitude of manufacturers for this size bearing therefore if you measure the o/d of your bearing and then match it up with the sensor rings available. Steve.

Hi, have a look under the gear change gaiter in the car it may well be on top of the box. Steve.

Hi the stupid aspect of this is that they will be running E5 alongside E10 for a good few years, the E10 has 5% more bio ethanol than the standard fuel but allegedly will be cheaper as you lose up to 10% of your power and MPG but indeed it will reduce emissions on your vehicle dramatically which in theory should reduce your VED rating [ok you can dream]. I can't see that happening as they are clawing back to much capital under the current VED system in my case my road tax is thirty quid but if I had bought the same car two years younger its fixed at a hundred and twenty-five pounds a year because the greedy bustards realised they were losing out and changed the goal post position again to suit them. Your choice really if your conscience dictates that you must use it by all means do, the only problem is bio ethanol is extremely corrosive and will find any flaws in pipework etc and exploit them, Fords tried to make an engine that would run on pure bio ethanol, great it works running on fuel that comes from rotting cabbages no real emissions to speak of, only problem was it did not matter what they made the fuel pipes out of along with the fuel pump seals it just destroyed them in record time so they scrapped the project, the only fuel bio ethanol works well with is diesel because its Heavy Oil and has loads of natural lubricity and all the seals are made of a higher grade compound but even these rot out if the mixture is to high. E10 = lower price, less MPG, less performance, so the question is apart from lower emissions what is the advantage for the end user. Steve.