Stevey Y

Hi Clifford I agree in principle with what you are saying in so much as back in the day a good working knowledge of cars was essential but you still needed things such as multimeters, dwell angle meters, strobe lights, but with the advent of electronic ignition most of that fell by the wayside, up until seventeen years ago I was in the same position, having to go to a garage to get the light put out and the codes read so at around £40 a time it was over a year becoming an expensive hobby especially when you considered the car was doing in excess of 60k a year, lateral thinking dictated that I went out and bought my own unit pre loaded with Delphi and Wurth software which although being generic was very good enabling me to things like forced regenerations and adaptation of new parts, after while I suddenly realised that what I had was good but did not go as far as deep interrogation or readapting say things such as BCMs which although not being replaced had started to throw up ghost codes as over 180k a lot of the modules storage space had become clogged with irrelevant information so if I cleared it back to factory settings it would start to learn again, to do this I had to download Forscan and get the appropriate interface it was not expensive and gave me a far larger scope. Move on to the Audi I got the VCDS software and again the right interface, this is another level i.e. if I had a wheel sensor problem not only will it show the Code and description of the fault but which wheel is dysfunctional and the part number for it how bad is that if I had the ABS light on and no code for sensors therefore you would have to assume that it is another part in the chain maybe a sensor which would throw up a U code, I agree there is a lot of misdiagnosis sometimes on purpose prime example being one of my friends VW Golf just heading for its second MOT and well out of warranty, the airbag light is on and on the pre inspection they plugged it in [Extra £80] and told him the airbag module had gone and it was£1200 to supply and fit, when I plugged in it said front passenger airbag connection open circuit or to ground so took it apart cleaned the connection and the light disappeared, that was a year ago, if you look at others on this site like Thomas G who have gone out and bought OBD Eleven and educated themselves as he has documented on this site recently, its saved him a fortune. Regards Steve

Hi Clifford I would be interested to know what you use when you get a warning light up on the dash?, the thing most people fail to grasp is that most garages are forced to use generic code readers as they have to work on a multitude of different brands of different ages, people such as Snap on and Bosch pay a small fortune for a licence to use a small fraction of each manufacturers diagnostic software which may or may not go in any depth of interrogation of the modules on any particular vehicle, therefore I agree that manufacturer specific software is indeed better. With regard to false diagnosis that is the prerogative of the unit user who may or may not have the ability to mentally work out the sequence of events that led to the fault occurring as the guy who I learned from once said, its cause and effect, you can spend ££££££ curing the effects but what you really need is the cause as if you nail that first time a lot of the effects just vanish.

Hi, unfortunately these do look like the light units have suffered some sort of impact. if you take in to account that the light manufacturers are using thinner ABS plastic it won't take a lot of pressure to crack them, the only really cheap solution is source some second hand units or live with what you have if its not letting in water. Steve.

Hi just jocky on to any fuse that is lower than 10amps and is ignition powered I did my one on the spare fuse station in the green boxed bit in the fuse box on the right of the steering wheel. Steve.

Hi, done some digging and come up with the fact that the only true sealed unit gearboxes were fitted to A4 models pre 09 this was dropped after 09 as it was not very popular with the motorist, Audi are now saying that all the units are FILLED for life which is rubbish most of them have one filter cartridge on the box that needs changing except in the case of the ZF version which has an internal filter as well which will involve the sump being removed, the box also uses two types of oil ATF for the auto part and standard gear oil for the bit with the cogs in it. Steve.

Hi the part number you require is 8V0 862 153B, this is the updated part no should you have a burning desire to spend about sixty quid with Audi, if you want to get it a lot cheaper go on eBay and use part number 4L0862153D they even have genuine VAG units for around twenty five quid, lets face it they all end up the same, BTW if you remove the trim its only one bolt holding the unit onto the filler unit. Steve.

Hi Ann, if its the cam belt I would get it done ASAP as if that goes its game over, anything else please feel free to ask as thats what forums are for, as for another car, whatever else you get will be the same through experience I have found other makes just go wrong more frequently at least with the Audi you fix it and it gives you a lot more problem free motoring even as a cab I have racked up 60k in mine so far with very few problems as you cant count cam belts as a problem as with clutches as they are a wear related consumable. Steve 🤔

Hi, yes whats left of it, its definitely knackered have a look on youtube from memory there is a video on how to remove the filler assembly I seem to remember that you go in from the back after removing the side trim in the boot, I will have a look at my parts system and see if I can get a part number for you as I am pretty sure its the same part for most models, thank god for globalisation, if not I have a couple of good numbers for Audi recyclers who do mail order. Regards Steve.

Hi Ann, I am good at the moment work has picked up [ Cabbie], I have a 16 plate A6 Avant 2.0 tdi, thanks for getting back to me I am pleased that this has worked out for you considering the eye watering alternative costs, yes it will be a lot faster as there is nowhere near the restrictions in the gas flow on the exhaust which equates to about another 25 BHP only advice I can give you is don't use cheap fuel [supermarket] as it will start to smoke as the fuel has quite a lot of light paraffin in it to blend it down and we all know what paraffin smells like when burnt. I have in the past considered a remap etc but I have two MOTs a year and the council have spent a fortune on the latest emissions testing equipment an effort to weed us dodgy cab drivers out so I have to play the game to a greater extent but I still refuse to have Greta Thunberg as a pin up. With regard to your car pics I think you would be best served asking the administrators on this site to remove them which I think would be the path of least resistance and they seem to be pretty much on the ball, just drop one of them a personal message on their drop box, try the guy called Magnet he seems to be on here quite a lot and is knowledgable. As for the belt tensioner if you can tell me which one it is I will do my best to advise, I am glad you have become a winner and not remained a victim of the thieving garages that exist in this world. Regards Steve.

Hi sorry for the late reply, yes they can change the oil as the manufacturers have to have a hole in it to fill it up, Fords had the same idea but people got round it by sucking the old oil out through the filler hole and then refilling it, by now some bright spark will have found a way of changing the filters as well, as for youtube I must admit I have never looked at this problem but I will now and if I find any thing I will let you know. Steve.

Hi, first question, don't use supermarket fuel as that will clog the DPF faster than blinking, google in Hydra fuel products they do a very good Dpf cleaner for people that only do short journeys add that to the appropriate amount of fuel and go for a blast for twenty mins. The audio button is replaceable there is a video on youtube about how to remove the centre console with buttons, get a s/h one off eBay, with regard to the fuel flap if you look at it when open is the little black button still on the left inner, if so give it a good soaking in WD40 and work the button in and out, my button does it and thats how I cure mine its a rubbish design. Steve.

Hi maybe they have modified the screens pacified area to address a problem they had on later higher spec models your guess is as good as mine, like I said try asking the advice of the local Autoglass depot as they are normally very helpful and probably know the real answer to your question. Steve.

Hi by rocker cover do you mean the plastic noise shield?, if so clean the oil to and run the engine whilst looking at the injectors hold your hand flat just above each injector in turn if one is blowing you will feel the pressure and heat so be careful, don't try removing an injector unless you have to as they require a tightening sequence which you will need a torque wrench for the tightening of the foot that holds the injector down, this dictates the crush pressure on the new seal and above all a clean seat and surrounding area of the injector is an absolute must, I would say something is amiss as the whole injector area should be dry, also look at the injector feed pipe unions for diesel leaks as this will cause uneven running due to the fuel pressure being lost at the offending injector. Steve.

Hi well done the pictures are very helpful, the dots are not hiding the sensor therefore I think the only other thing it could be is that a new sensor comes with the screen and is bonded to it either thats faulty or they have tried to get away with fitting the old receiver unit, both must be renewed when replacing the screen, therefore I would say it still down to them. Regards Steve.

Hi if whoever did the brake lining change did it correctly you put the EPB into pad service mode and when finished you take it out of service mode as long as the pistons were not wound in mechanicaly it should of been ok as when in service position the pistons are retracted to the start position for the new pads, therefore when taken out of pad service mode the piston moves ever so slightly forward, a few thou to accommodate the new linings. The only things to check are if the right pads were fitted and were the stainless steel runners for the pads replaced. Steve.

Yep, and thats whats blind siding the rain sensor and making it think its being rained on all the time, the sensor works on the principle of rain landing on the clear part of the windscreen in front of it when the water reaches the level that it starts to cut the light level to the sensor it fires the automatic wipe function, I think you now have what is a pacified area with the dots which appears to the sensor as a major downpour, and yes to many. Steve.

Hi my guess is its the wrong screen, I had that problem with another car a few years ago and it is where the dots cover the sensor eye so it thinks that its raining permanently as the sensor eye is pacified via the dots, the screen fitted is obviously for another version of your model where the rain sensor sits further down the screen in a clear patch, I think this one is down to them so don't take any twaddle they serve up as those dots should not cover the sender, if I were you I would find your nearest Autoglass centre and get them to have a look just to make sure. Regards Steve.

Hi NO as previously posted if the water jacket on the EGR cooler is perforated it normally pressurises the water system with exhaust gas, no oil involved, if you can post a description of what the oil in the water looks like, emulsified= white sludge or just plain black that would be very helpful. Steve.

Hi possibly an injector seal check round the injectors for oily tar like crud. Steve.

Thats what I love about this country there are some very clever people who always find a way round dealership excessive greed. Steve.

Hi so far, one humidity sensor under mirror Brand new from Audi £165.00, bought on eBay £65.00, air quality sensor I cleaned in alcohol and has been working fine ever since, headlight range control module, again cleaned contacts with alcohol works perfectly, one oxygen sensor which failed at 80k Audi wanted £190.00 for it so I bought the same sensor, again from eBay, genuine Bosch same O.E. for £69.00. The car has been brilliant, I use it as a cab so it has a hard life so the rest of it has been brakes and service items. BTW there are some amazing deals on Bosch filters on eBay so I have had a bit of a blitz on it as I have to service the car soon, Bosch air filter £13.00, Bosch oil filter £9.00, if you have your part numbers for your vehicle you can save a fortune on good quality parts. Steve

Hi I am pretty sure they do it on eBay and a multitude of other internet sites, I have used my friends OBD Eleven its good but I have VCDSso there is no point in buying it especially after the year I just had, taxi driver. Steve.

Hi for what it costs its well worth the money as you can do a certain amount of part adaptations as well as read faults, there are other what claim to be dedicated software platforms that are far more expensive and don't have half the capabilities of OBD Eleven if you want to go to the far side buy VCDS but it is far more expensive. Steve.

Hi coolant leaks are fairly easy to spot as the coolant colouring leaves a red stain which turns brown if it hits anything hot. Steve.

Hi, most modern cars are fitted with a rev limiter these days to stop people from sitting in neutral and revving it right up, with regard to the leak possibility if you arm yourself with a cleaned household spray bottle half fill it with water and a good squirt of washing up liquid, shake it so there are plenty of bubbles then start engine from cold and spray the bubbles on the exhaust joints in the engine bay DPF CAT etc you will soon see if there are any leaks as it blows the foam away and there is no way the solution you use can catch light. Sometimes exhaust joints blow minimally without any sound. Steve.